Performance Boats Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
I'm No Expert
Joined
·
3,139 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So i went to fire the new build yesterday and when i turned on the water it started squirting out the front of the engine passenger side. It came out the front and out the second bolt hole. I installed the cometic intake gaskets dry and used a tiny bit of gasket cinch around the water ports. I'm wondering if it wasnt enough. I know it's not excessive water pressure because i have a pressure guage. Wondering what some of you guys do to seal your intake, with my last manifold i rtv'd the whole gasket both sides, wondering if i should do the same this time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,045 Posts
Shaun, Did you use sealer around the threads on the bolts? Some do go into water jackets and will leak by the threads! WT:)devil
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
25,975 Posts
So i went to fire the new build yesterday and when i turned on the water it started squirting out the front of the engine passenger side. It came out the front and out the second bolt hole. I installed the cometic intake gaskets dry and used a tiny bit of gasket cinch around the water ports. I'm wondering if it wasnt enough. I know it's not excessive water pressure because i have a pressure guage. Wondering what some of you guys do to seal your intake, with my last manifold i rtv'd the whole gasket both sides, wondering if i should do the same this time.
I know you had problems getting that manifold to line up. Are you sure the manifold isn't hitting the block at the front and rear. I have never used the cometic intakes, but if it leaks and isn't hitting the block, you may have to rtv them like the you did before. Double check the manifold bolts?



100% free webcam site! | Awesome chicks and it is absolutely free! | Watch free live sex cam - easy as 1-2-3
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
25,975 Posts
so i went to fire the new build yesterday and when i turned on the water it started squirting out the front of the engine passenger side. It came out the front and out the second bolt hole. I installed the cometic intake gaskets dry and used a tiny bit of gasket cinch around the water ports. I'm wondering if it wasnt enough. I know it's not excessive water pressure because i have a pressure guage. Wondering what some of you guys do to seal your intake, with my last manifold i rtv'd the whole gasket both sides, wondering if i should do the same this time.
shaun, did you use sealer around the threads on the bolts? Some do go into water jackets and will leak by the threads! Wt:)devil
yep!



100% free webcam site! | Awesome chicks and it is absolutely free! | Watch free live sex cam - easy as 1-2-3
 

·
I'm No Expert
Joined
·
3,139 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I used a tiny bit of gasket cinch. I just grabbed a set of new gaskets from [email protected] this morning. He told me that i should use some RTV around those water ports and it's a good idea to put some on the threads. I had to cancel the dyno scheduled for tomorrow, rescheduled for next wend. Now hopfully i didnt get any water in the block...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,677 Posts
we have used Jesse at biggs several times in the past,his carbs have always tended to be on the rich side,other than that best money we have ever spent.nice fella with great customer service.

hope you get the leak fixed.:)hand
 

·
I'm No Expert
Joined
·
3,139 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
My buddy admins the fordmuscle.com website & forums (i actually host it) and they did a big thing on carbs and used bigs performance. They were pretty impressed with the results so thats how i started with bigs. Bigs rebuilt my 660's but it was just basic rebuild but they came out great. They where a tad rich but i ran them with what he gave me and they ran hard other than my hickup problem which i'm convinced was caused by my cut linkage (bigs didnt do that). I bought there stage 5 750's, they look sweet, we'll see how close he got it with the specs i gave him come dyno day.
 

·
E-7 Sheepdog (ret)
Joined
·
6,834 Posts
I used a tiny bit of gasket cinch. I just grabbed a set of new gaskets from [email protected] this morning. He told me that i should use some RTV around those water ports and it's a good idea to put some on the threads. I had to cancel the dyno scheduled for tomorrow, rescheduled for next wend. Now hopfully i didnt get any water in the block...
ALWAYS, and it doesn't take much to avoid the verry headache you have.

I don't RTV bolts tho, I use non-hardening pipe thread dope and never get leaks.
 

·
I'm No Expert
Joined
·
3,139 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Pulled the manifold and water is in the damn block and pan. The passanger side is where the leak was happening, I can see rust where it was leaking and it's accross the hole bottom of the head. The gasket was wet in those areas too. For kicks i took my shitty plastic degree checker and held it up to the driver side, and it read 45*. I then took it to the passanger side of the manifold and it read 43.5*.. Now i dont really trust this guage because it is a rinky dink little thing but what i did notice is if i locked it at 45* from the driver side and then moved it to the passanger side there was a large gap at the bottom area of the manifold... right where it was leaking...

So now i dont know if the machine work was f'd or if this thing came like this from edelbrock. When i talked to bob mckray today he said that he just checked zero front and back on each side and took off what i wanted. When setting this thing on the block before having him cut it, i do remember it wanting to sit to one side so i'm leaning to the manifold being retarded to begin with.

Wtf is with my luck, i swear i'm on some type of advanced learning curve here. My dad said somthing today to me that i though was funny but true.

"Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want."
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,677 Posts
Pulled the manifold and water is in the damn block and pan. The passanger side is where the leak was happening, I can see rust where it was leaking and it's accross the hole bottom of the head. The gasket was wet in those areas too. For kicks i took my shitty plastic degree checker and held it up to the driver side, and it read 45*. I then took it to the passanger side of the manifold and it read 43.5*.. Now i dont really trust this guage because it is a rinky dink little thing but what i did notice is if i locked it at 45* from the driver side and then moved it to the passanger side there was a large gap at the bottom area of the manifold... right where it was leaking...

So now i dont know if the machine work was f'd or if this thing came like this from edelbrock. When i talked to bob mckray today he said that he just checked zero front and back on each side and took off what i wanted. When setting this thing on the block before having him cut it, i do remember it wanting to sit to one side so i'm leaning to the manifold being retarded to begin with.

Wtf is with my luck, i swear i'm on some type of advanced learning curve here. My dad said somthing today to me that i though was funny but true.

"Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want."
ahh hell dont worry,machine the intake of thats it,drain oil.re-fill and re-set intake have fun.:D

yeah it sucks,but in the long run it will all work out.travis:)hand
 

·
mo balls than $cents$
Joined
·
11,734 Posts
I used a tiny bit of gasket cinch. I just grabbed a set of new gaskets from [email protected] this morning. He told me that i should use some RTV around those water ports and it's a good idea to put some on the threads. I had to cancel the dyno scheduled for tomorrow, rescheduled for next wend. Now hopfully i didnt get any water in the block...
shaun, go by a gm dealer and pick up a tube of engine sealant, put that around the coolant ports frt and back. regular ole rtv ain't shit, the gm sealant will damn sho seal it up. we use it for oil pan gaskets , bout everything on gm cars nowadays, great stuff! it can withstand pressure, unlike rtv. gm p# 88861417
 

·
steelcomp was here
Joined
·
26,526 Posts
The intake flanges need to be 90* to eachother. :)hand
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,736 Posts
When I used rtv to make gaskets or seal stuff, I just lightly tighten the bolts holding the two pieces, basically a little more than finger tight. Let the RTV set up and then several hours later come back and tighten further, sometimes the next day if the entire gasket is rtv. Seems to work for me.
 

·
Member
Joined
·
688 Posts
[. My dad said somthing today to me that i though was funny but true.

"Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want."[/QUOTE]

Sounds about right,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,135 Posts
Somebody told me once to use 3m weatherstrip adhesive on the water ports. Stuff is very sticky/messy, but it works well.
 

·
mo balls than $cents$
Joined
·
11,734 Posts
Somebody told me once to use 3m weatherstrip adhesive on the water ports. Stuff is very sticky/messy, but it works well.
that works great for fiber gaskets, i do it all the time, but metal or plastic won't seal that way. i've done 100's of intakes over the yrs and i have never found a better silicone than the gm stuff(ford also sells it). regular ole parts store shit will sponge eventually due to oil or fuel, the gm won't;)
 

·
21 Daytona
Joined
·
5,291 Posts
best stuff out there is Mopar # 82300234
engine and Gear sealant RTV :)devil

and the mopar ATF-RTV #0510884AA
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top