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06 Mach 22 w/2.5 Drags
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200 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought my boat early last season and it had roughly 30 hours on freshly rebuilt motors. Rebuilds included new blocks, heads, all electric equipment, etc. The only parts on the motors that were original are the Sportmaster Lower Units.

Early this season, I blew a lower unit on the left side. The outter ring failed and let water inside, froze all the bearings, whatever. I rebuilt the lower and my tech used countersunk screws on either side of the gearcase to hold this ring in place due to it stripping the actual case housing when it failed on the 4th. 2 weeks ago, it failed again. Same motor, same symptoms (lost reverse) and an occasional "hi-rev" from the motor due to the driveshaft not hooking with the prop shaft. I didn't even see 80MPH the day it blew, I wasn't really running the boat hard at all. It has roughly 15 hours on it since the rebuild. It is 100% not my techs doing as he did tell me he really couldnt gaurentee the reliablity of it. I do however trust him without question, as I have known him for over 10 years and he is friends with my father.

So here's what I'd like a few opinions on. My options are somewhat limited, I really don't have as much cash to drop in this thing as I had originally thought, but I can either ditch the 2.5s, again, they are pretty much brand new and now have a total of apprx 65 hours a side, and hunt down a pair of 300X's. (I would LOVE to buy them difrectly from Eric Simon, but I do not think I am going to be able to afford his.) So, I could get a pair of 300X's if I can find two that are affordable, have Simon Motorsports install his 15" shaft and housing on them but no rebuilds or performance work done, which leaves me with a pair of drag motors to do who knows what with. Or I keep the 2.5s and install (2) brand new Sportmasters from Mercury, which I can afford. I only need one, but I would like to get both replaced, then I literally would have practiaclly new motors. What do you guys think?
 

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Canatard
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3,341 Posts
I think gear cases are extremely difficult to rebuild properly. There's more to it than just setting the backlash. If that low unit had been rebuilt properly, it would not have blown up. It's as simple as that. Again... not that it's easy.

I recommend you replace the failed unit, or have it rebuilt by someone who has the tools and patience to rebuild it properly.

There is no need for two new lower units. Have the old one polished and they will look the same.

Don't make it more difficult than it needs to be.
 

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Blown, OHBA Member
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2,811 Posts
Buy two lowers put one in the garage if it blows again put spare on and sell the whole rig and buy a jet or v drive :)hand
 

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Registered
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1,713 Posts
I agree with TomB

If they are built and maintained properly,they should not need no countersunk screw and with your mach 22 boat (light load IMO) they should be bullet proof
Now if you stripped the keyway that locates the bearing carrier,its time for some trick welding and machine work or replace the whole housing....
 

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Northern CA DCB Sales
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1,230 Posts
Stick with the 2.5s. 3.0 liters are way to heavy for that 22. If you need help with your lower feel free to call my shop we build sportmasters every day and know your boat well. Drew @ Boatmasters 925-443-5775.
 

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Wild Bill
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247 Posts
symptoms (lost reverse) and an occasional "hi-rev" from the motor due to the driveshaft not hooking with the prop shaft.

I don't understand why the motor was "hi-reving" due to the driveshaft not hooking up with the prop shaft. Maybe I just don't understand that part of your post. Could you explain this further. Is it possible the your linkage adjustment wasn't putting the motor all the way in gear. Just looking for reasons why you may be having these failures.
 

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06 Mach 22 w/2.5 Drags
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200 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I agree with TomB

If they are built and maintained properly,they should not need no countersunk screw and with your mach 22 boat (light load IMO) they should be bullet proof
Now if you stripped the keyway that locates the bearing carrier,its time for some trick welding and machine work or replace the whole housing....
I'd like to jump up and down and swear that I change the gearlube every 10-15 hours and maintain them as I should, which I believe I do. But I suppose you can always do more. Gearlube was obviously changed when the lower was rebuilt and worked without fail for a few good trips but that was the last time it had been flushed. Several of those trips however I pushed the boat pretty hard. Lets face it, I didn't buy this thing to float, haha, I run it for sure.

That keyway broke and allowed that carrier to move. From what I can see and understand, the carrier threads into the gearcase and is held in place by that keyway. Thus, the need for the screws to keep it in place since the keyway is no more. As I said I really trust and very much like my tech, and again he told me there was a possibility of our somewhat band-aided fix would fail again. I have priced out the housing itself and after the labor to rebuild it with all new parts, I can buy the Sportmaster completely assembled from Mercury for a few hundred dollars more.

Tom B - I hear you. But I'm very confident that my tech has the tools, knowledge, and patience to rebuild the lower properly. My dad has had a few DCB's as with a bunch of his friends and them along with everyone I know take and trust their boats to the same person as I here in the SD area. As I said above, I want to replace the left side completely because of the broken keyway. My only reason for wanting to replace the right side is that I would guess that lower unit has into the 200-300 hour mark on it and I don't want to have to deal with rebuilding the right side next year, ya know? I do not know the total hours because the original boat these motors were on was totaled a few years back and they were rebuilt and installed on the new hull along with all new hardware, electronics, etc. I'd almost just rather suck it up and drop the coin now as sort of preventative thing and it would leave me with a pair of spare lowers. I understand 100% what you're getting at, I'm just wanting to make sure I do as much as possible to not go through this again.

Wildhair - If I buy two, I might as well install them. The lowers are side specific so it really wouldnt be much of a spare. I might as well use the current as a spare and install the brand new one. Just my $0.02.

I really apprecaite all the feedback. I definitely have to decide what I am going to do. No matter which way I go we're talkin a freakin huge chunk of change and I want to make sure I make the right decision. So thank you all very much.
 

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Premium Member
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2,145 Posts
First, you should be able to buy a used, but good shape Sporty for your 2.5's for around $1800, maybe a little less if you can find a deal. I wouldn't replace them unless you have to, and just doing a case is an option. If your guts are OK, a case should run you around a grand.

The carrier slides into the housing and is held from rotating in the housing by a small keyway. This keyway CAN start to open up over time. My case has done this. What happens is the carrier starts to rotate, and basically forces the steel key to move to the side of it's keyway, which is aluminum, making a larger area that the key now moves left to right in. We took mine apart and cut a piece of steel (I think we used part of a left over crank sealing ring) and layed it into the opened up area next to the keyway and JB welded it in place. Then the key can't move. The next time I was in the case, the key had started to move the other way. Did the same fix on the other side of the keyway and haven't had a problem since.
 

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06 Mach 22 w/2.5 Drags
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200 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
First, you should be able to buy a used, but good shape Sporty for your 2.5's for around $1800, maybe a little less if you can find a deal. I wouldn't replace them unless you have to, and just doing a case is an option. If your guts are OK, a case should run you around a grand.

The carrier slides into the housing and is held from rotating in the housing by a small keyway. This keyway CAN start to open up over time. My case has done this. What happens is the carrier starts to rotate, and basically forces the steel key to move to the side of it's keyway, which is aluminum, making a larger area that the key now moves left to right in. We took mine apart and cut a piece of steel (I think we used part of a left over crank sealing ring) and layed it into the opened up area next to the keyway and JB welded it in place. Then the key can't move. The next time I was in the case, the key had started to move the other way. Did the same fix on the other side of the keyway and haven't had a problem since.
I'm not 100% sure on the damage from the current failure as of right now. What I do know for sure is that i can grab my prop and move it roughly 1/4 - 1/2 inches forwards and then back. When I rebuilt the gearcase in July I did not replace the drive shaft which I know eventually will need replacing. So I am going to assume that I need a new case and all new internals for my left side. My stbd motor has not even given me a hickup, knock on wood, but I do wish to have it as close to perfect as I can for this upcoming season which makes me want to at the very least rebuild it as well. My only thoughts for replacing both is to give myself a set of spares, which damnit until this season I never would have thought about having. The left side I for sure want to replace the housing, just not sure what to do about the broken keyway. Did you do the repairs to your case on your own??
 

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Premium Member
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2,145 Posts
I'm not 100% sure on the damage from the current failure as of right now. What I do know for sure is that i can grab my prop and move it roughly 1/4 - 1/2 inches forwards and then back. When I rebuilt the gearcase in July I did not replace the drive shaft which I know eventually will need replacing. So I am going to assume that I need a new case and all new internals for my left side. My stbd motor has not even given me a hickup, knock on wood, but I do wish to have it as close to perfect as I can for this upcoming season which makes me want to at the very least rebuild it as well. My only thoughts for replacing both is to give myself a set of spares, which damnit until this season I never would have thought about having. The left side I for sure want to replace the housing, just not sure what to do about the broken keyway. Did you do the repairs to your case on your own??
Hang on. When you say you can move your prop back and forth, do you mean in line with thrust (towards the front of the boat, then the back)? Is the carrier nut in place? Does the carrier move back and forth or just the propshaft? Is it leaking gear oil? If so, from where? Don't assume anything yet. ;)

Also remember that LH cases are harder to get right. Your Stb (RH rotation) is fine, and those are common. Lefts are harder to find, because there are less of them.

Kevin @ R&R Prop Shop and I did the repairs. Since you're not too far away, if you decide to replace yours, you might give him a try at fixing the broken one as a spare...but if it has water in it, make sure you get that out RIGHT AWAY, and refill with gear oil so nothing rusts.
 

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06 Mach 22 w/2.5 Drags
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200 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hang on. When you say you can move your prop back and forth, do you mean in line with thrust (towards the front of the boat, then the back)? Is the carrier nut in place? Does the carrier move back and forth or just the propshaft? Is it leaking gear oil? If so, from where? Don't assume anything yet. ;)

Also remember that LH cases are harder to get right. Your Stb (RH rotation) is fine, and those are common. Lefts are harder to find, because there are less of them.

Kevin @ R&R Prop Shop and I did the repairs. Since you're not too far away, if you decide to replace yours, you might give him a try at fixing the broken one as a spare...but if it has water in it, make sure you get that out RIGHT AWAY, and refill with gear oil so nothing rusts.

You'll have to forgive me. I'm still learning about there motors every day.

I can pull the prop towards the back of the boat as I stand right behind the engine. It seems to be just the prop shaft that moves, the carrier looks as if it stays in place. Unfortunately I don't have the gearcase in my possession, I have dropped it off at the shop to get the scoop on whats up with it. I did not ever see any gearlube leaking from the case and I am real anal at always looking for things like that. I checked before I launched the boat and always run my fingers around the seals to see if it is leaking. To my knowedge I have not seen any leaks from that casing.
 

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mach26 300's
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1,216 Posts
movement in the propshaft forward in back is completely normal, don't let the hours on the lower units make ya think there gonna blow. keeping water out is the key. , i check mine EVERY AND I MEAN EVERY trip and change if even the slightest bit of water intrusion. it is cheap insurance:D
 

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Premium Member
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2,145 Posts
Back/forth is ok, but 1/2" is too much. Normally around 1/4". Sounds like it might not be as hurt as you thought.
 

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06 Mach 22 w/2.5 Drags
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200 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Back/forth is ok, but 1/2" is too much. Normally around 1/4". Sounds like it might not be as hurt as you thought.

My right motor doesnt move AT ALL. Like I mean, maybe a **** hair, but the left side is freely moving. When I get it fully apart and my tech gives me a low down, Ill post back up and we'll see what he says.

Dustin, haha, I am pretty sure you and I have had the whole preventative maintenance conversation with someone on here before. I thought that I stayed on top of it with my motors too. I don't know what the deal is with my left side man. If it isnt one issue with it, its another, while my right (knock on wood) hasn't had a single hickup. Go figure.
 

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Bah...
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2,546 Posts
If the threads in the case for the spanner nut are damaged to the point it will not hold the specified torque for the nut the case is junk. The small key that holds the carrier in place is a poorly designed attempt. I was surprised this was never addressed in the design of the sportsmaster. A competent welding/machine shop can repair the keyway. Even so I would use one countersunk high grade stainless screw to ensure the carrier does not rotate in the housing.

You are very lucky having the case pull out of gear when you deaccelerated, I lost two motors to broken cranks when they fell back into gear after freewheeling to numbers off the tach. I'd find a new or good used housing and start from there. Also you'll probably find the upper splines twisted on the shaft.
 

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06 Mach 22 w/2.5 Drags
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200 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
"You are very lucky having the case pull out of gear when you deaccelerated, I lost two motors to broken cranks when they fell back into gear after freewheeling to numbers off the tach. I'd find a new or good used housing and start from there. Also you'll probably find the upper splines twisted on the shaft.[/QUOTE]"

Fortunately since this is now the second time I have had this happen, as soon as the motor started revving I shut it down and creeped back to the ramp on one engine. When I got it tied to the dock I cranked it over in neutral to be sure I didnt have any actual motor damage. Motors started up and idled fine, so as bad and aggravating as this is, I know it could always be worse.
 

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the silver bullet!
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1,996 Posts
"You are very lucky having the case pull out of gear when you deaccelerated, I lost two motors to broken cranks when they fell back into gear after freewheeling to numbers off the tach. I'd find a new or good used housing and start from there. Also you'll probably find the upper splines twisted on the shaft.
"

Fortunately since this is now the second time I have had this happen, as soon as the motor started revving I shut it down and creeped back to the ramp on one engine. When I got it tied to the dock I cranked it over in neutral to be sure I didnt have any actual motor damage. Motors started up and idled fine, so as bad and aggravating as this is, I know it could always be worse.[/QUOTE]

twin dragz you could always trade me your boat and a few dollars and you'll never have too worry about those pesky 2.5 's and lowers !!!!i promise to treat them right too a diet of 10k every time out !!!!TUNNEL T
 

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Marine Organism
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12,743 Posts
Is the carrier and case worn? If so it can wobble around and cause problems. You can have a sleave made.
 

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06 Mach 22 w/2.5 Drags
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200 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
"twin dragz you could always trade me your boat and a few dollars and you'll never have too worry about those pesky 2.5 's and lowers !!!!i promise to treat them right too a diet of 10k every time out !!!!TUNNEL T"


Ill think it over!! :)devil
 
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