Performance Boats Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
513 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I made my own scoop tray for a fiberglass scoop, and now I would like to make a nice transition for the air going into the carbs. The tray sits on two 750 cfm holleys, and when I made it I decided that I didn't want to mess around with cutting holes for the float adjustments etc. I bought two 1-1/2" aluminum spacers that sit on top of the carbs and welded the tray to the spacers, so it clears everything. The problem that I see is the 90* sharp corner at the entry. Does anybody know of some small air bells that would fit in there? Or better yet, what is everybody else doing inside their scoop? Or is it top secret? :D

Thanks,
Chris
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,278 Posts
I made my own scoop tray for a fiberglass scoop, and now I would like to make a nice transition for the air going into the carbs. The tray sits on two 750 cfm holleys, and when I made it I decided that I didn't want to mess around with cutting holes for the float adjustments etc. I bought two 1-1/2" aluminum spacers that sit on top of the carbs and welded the tray to the spacers, so it clears everything. The problem that I see is the 90* sharp corner at the entry. Does anybody know of some small air bells that would fit in there? Or better yet, what is everybody else doing inside their scoop? Or is it top secret? :D

Thanks,
Chris
Pics of your set-up would be nice, so we can help you with your problem! :)...just sayin'

FastRat
 

·
just a ski boat with bark
Joined
·
2,811 Posts
I made my own scoop tray for a fiberglass scoop, and now I would like to make a nice transition for the air going into the carbs. The tray sits on two 750 cfm holleys, and when I made it I decided that I didn't want to mess around with cutting holes for the float adjustments etc. I bought two 1-1/2" aluminum spacers that sit on top of the carbs and welded the tray to the spacers, so it clears everything. The problem that I see is the 90* sharp corner at the entry. Does anybody know of some small air bells that would fit in there? Or better yet, what is everybody else doing inside their scoop? Or is it top secret? :D

Thanks,
Chris

Here's a few pics of mine, not sure if the transitions help or not but it made sense to me. I think once the choke horns are cut off or a switch to the HP main bodies it will probably be more beneficial but who knows.


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,188 Posts
Nice work Loren!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
513 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Pics of your set-up would be nice, so we can help you with your problem! :)...just sayin'

FastRat
I knew that was coming I was thinking it while I was typing, but was too tired last night to post them. I will get some up tonight. :)hand
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
513 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Here's a few pics of mine, not sure if the transitions help or not but it made sense to me. I think once the choke horns are cut off or a switch to the HP main bodies it will probably be more beneficial but who knows.


Carnivalride, That is nice. What did you use to get that radius in there like that. I guess I could make somthing out of fiberglass. The finished scoop looks awesome. How much do you charge.....:D.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
513 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
jegs sells these they are from quickfuel.

Bobbo, I was leaning towards using a pair of these, but hated the thought of cutting them up to fit into my scoop. I still might use them, but I was just looking for something a little smaller.

Chris
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
513 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Here is a shot looking down the carburator. You can see the sharp edge as the air is entering the carb. This was just to get to the lake one day (2 years ago) and I am finally getting around to fixing it.


Thanks for all the suggestions,

Chris :D
 

·
What the Hell is That?
Joined
·
1,633 Posts
Here is a shot looking down the carburator. You can see the sharp edge as the air is entering the carb. This was just to get to the lake one day (2 years ago) and I am finally getting around to fixing it.


Thanks for all the suggestions,

Chris :D

Does it really make that big of a difference Performance wise? I could see if the boat was going 120 and you were looking for every tenth. Sharp edge vs Transition is flowing how much more air? Maybe 2-5 CFM more? If that?

How much is it disrupting the airflow?
 

·
just a ski boat with bark
Joined
·
2,811 Posts
Yours looks good to me

Carnivalride, That is nice. What did you use to get that radius in there like that. I guess I could make somthing out of fiberglass. The finished scoop looks awesome. How much do you charge.....:D.
Chris I used a router to cut some high density particle board I had laying around to get the basic shape and then spread filler with piece of aluminum cut to the radius I wanted. I then sprayed it with automotive primer, blocked the top and sanded the "bells" by hand with a foam pad behind my sand paper. It was then painted, wet sanded, buffed and then waxed. I bought the scoop and just added the flange to the bottom. As far as making the tray I'd have to check and see how bad the mold is my son knocked it off the shelf but I believe it's a 9-3/8" center to center on the carbs.



Here is a shot looking down the carburator. You can see the sharp edge as the air is entering the carb. This was just to get to the lake one day (2 years ago) and I am finally getting around to fixing it.


Thanks for all the suggestions,

Chris :D
Depending on the air requirements of your engine I'm not sure my base would gain you anything. Isn't the scoop supposed to direct the air straight down to the carburetors? I know on mine it really doesn't need 1500cfm so would another 100cfm (if that) make any difference? Your tray looks good so I'm not sure I'd spend the time to change it unless you just want to. :)hand

FWIW look at some of the pictures of the ones under the scoops Kevin Felkins makes, the metal trays under those look very similar to yours except most of them are for dual dominators.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
513 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I am not sure if it really makes any difference, but I would like to think that a radiused entry would make the incoming air less turbulent. I did the formula for the cfm requirement for my engine and at 100% V.E. it would only be 932 cfm. The engine is only going to draw as much air as it can, but I would like the air that it draws to be flowing strait into the carbs. Has anyone done any testing with airbells, velocity stacks, or radiused entries as compared with a square edge. Even the o.e.m. air cleaners have a slight radius to them. :)bulb I am thinking that a radius can not hurt anything.

Thanks,
Chris
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top