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mo balls than $cents$
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Nice numbers man congrats! Otta be a runner fo sho
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Nice numbers man congrats! Otta be a runner fo sho
Thanks. Was really happy with it. Found out my mechanical fuel pump wasn't keeping up so I'm going to switch to a belt driven and be worry free and also need to make a few mods to the linkage but other than that, it was a great day. :thumb:
Which Brodix heads are those?

Tim
They're the BB-2's.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
PS&B1;3074890 said:
Get a Clay Smith pump!:D
I've heard those are inconsistent as well. They had a guy with a similar engine to mine with one and it wouldn't keep up. Plus for a few bucks more I can do a belt set up and just have piece of mind. Both Bob and George at Vrbancic were leaning towards a belt driven also so gonna go with their recommendations.
 

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steelcomp was here
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I've heard those are inconsistent as well. They had a guy with a similar engine to mine with one and it wouldn't keep up. Plus for a few bucks more I can do a belt set up and just have piece of mind. Both Bob and George at Vrbancic were leaning towards a belt driven also so gonna go with their recommendations.
:))THumbsUp
 

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I've heard those are inconsistent as well. They had a guy with a similar engine to mine with one and it wouldn't keep up. Plus for a few bucks more I can do a belt set up and just have piece of mind. Both Bob and George at Vrbancic were leaning towards a belt driven also so gonna go with their recommendations.
It was just a suggestion.
It will easily handle 825 hp consistently and trouble free.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It was just a suggestion.
It will easily handle 825 hp consistently and trouble free.
I appreciate all suggestions and input. :))THumbsUp All the options were considered and gone over at the dyno but i'm going to stick with Bob and George's recommendations. They were super cool guys and were explaining that the problems with the mechanical pumps is the more heat they get in them and the longer they run, the harder it is for them to keep up the pressure. I watched mine on the dyno work great when it was cold but after a few pulls it dropped considerably and that was supposed to be a pretty good mechanical fuel pump

I'm looking into either a waterman set up or a BLP one. Hoping to be able to get away with not having to plumb a return line to the tank and I know BLP makes a nice pump with an internal bypass. Plus this way, if I ever do some upgrades i'll already have a fuel system to support more power. I'd rather spend a couple extra bucks now and not have to worry about burning up pistons because my fuel pressure was dropping while I was cruising down the river.
 

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I appreciate all suggestions and input. :))THumbsUp All the options were considered and gone over at the dyno but i'm going to stick with Bob and George's recommendations. They were super cool guys and were explaining that the problems with the mechanical pumps is the more heat they get in them and the longer they run, the harder it is for them to keep up the pressure. I watched mine on the dyno work great when it was cold but after a few pulls it dropped considerably and that was supposed to be a pretty good mechanical fuel pump

I'm looking into either a waterman set up or a BLP one. Hoping to be able to get away with not having to plumb a return line to the tank and I know BLP makes a nice pump with an internal bypass. Plus this way, if I ever do some upgrades i'll already have a fuel system to support more power. I'd rather spend a couple extra bucks now and not have to worry about burning up pistons because my fuel pressure was dropping while I was cruising down the river.
My Racepump doesnt require a return line and I have ran it up to 30psi of boost & over 7400 rpms with 555cid without any trouble. 150psi & 450gph
Race Pumps Fuel Systems
 

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Discussion Starter #12
My Racepump doesnt require a return line and I have ran it up to 30psi of boost & over 7400 rpms with 555cid without any trouble. 150psi & 450gph
Race Pumps Fuel Systems
Appreciate the input. :))THumbsUp Looked at those too. Heard good and bad but it just goes back to what Vrbancic recommended. That pump didn't come up when talking about all the different mechanical pump options and they saw what the engine wanted so i'm just going to stick with their opinion.
 

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Nice build!. Real similar to mine.

468 dart heads, hyd roller, 420 B&M, only pulled mine to 6200. Made 6.9psi at 7% under. 802hp. 8.8:1 static. Cam is a 236/245 .630 lift 114lsa.

Your afr ' s look real nice. I've got 84p/92 secondary with 8.5pv. Non boost reference. Holley 850's. My afr was 12.2 at 6200 on the dyno with that combo.

What's your carb setup? Are those the actual manifold temps on the sheet?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Nice build!. Real similar to mine.

468 dart heads, hyd roller, 420 B&M, only pulled mine to 6200. Made 6.9psi at 7% under. 802hp. 8.8:1 static. Cam is a 236/245 .630 lift 114lsa.

Your afr ' s look real nice. I've got 84p/92 secondary with 8.5pv. Non boost reference. Holley 850's. My afr was 12.2 at 6200 on the dyno with that combo.

What's your carb setup? Are those the actual manifold temps on the sheet?
Thanks man. Carbs are 950's with 84's all the way around. PV's are blocked off.

That was the charge temp that was taken out of the one port in the manifold. They teed out that one port to take boost and the temp.
 

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Huh, I thought they had a return line on them.
No return line. On some of the Car applications with high underhood heat problems they add an idle bleed that returns to the tank. But no need for it in a boat. No return on mine. just a pump with a separate reg for each bowl on the carb.
 

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Got an e-mail back from Howard Steward with his blessing to post up his schematic for the dual reg setup.
This is exactly how mine is plumbed except i dont use the idle bleed returns.
001 (3).jpg
 
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