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Discussion Starter #1
All,

I am looking for any and every opinion/information regarding marine exhaust. I am installing an as of right now stock ls 5.3 gm truck engine. I am doing everything I can not to put cast iron jacketed manifolds. I all most bought injected thru transom but I'm not sure if the exhaust valves will like the constant water exposure. I've had a fair amount of exhaust pulse/tuning education so my first instinct is to use headers but I can't afforded jacketed headers 4-5k. I was going get a set of log style manifolds but I started reading about siphoning water thru the transom tips. This whole siphoning thing has got my attention. I am going to run without 02 sensors . Any good articals I should read?
 

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I've been wondering the same thing on my blown 454, 21' v-drive day cruiser in my avatar. I currently (10 plus years) run aluminum manifolds that exit thru a set of "snails". Looking to step up. Exhaust would have to be jacketed for under hatch use. Been thinking of going to something like Indmar Alum Manifoilds or IMCO type of exhaust manifols. Don't want to get to crasy $$'s involved.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Marine exhaust

I'm thinking about the 1500$ aluminum set. So the 6.0 manifolds bolt right up to the 5.3? Last question what riser do u use or can you use something like stainless 4" pipe with a bend? Thank you for your time .ive been wondering about the 6.0 manifolds just don't know what riser .
 

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The $1500 ones come with risers, you can build your own but they need to be double wall jacketed for at least as long as the factory risers.
5.3 and 6.0 exhaust is the same.
 

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exhaust

Thank you i think im going to go with the hardin marine aluminum manifolds and risers for 1500$ cause i sorta want to close the cover on the engine bay. Do you know anything about the starter and alternator. I read the ls1 starter is sealed from the factory but do i need to worry about the alternator? Its fuel injected and ill have a blower fan. thanks in advance
 

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To comply with the US Coast Guard regulations the alternator needs to be marine certified. This means it has been tested in an enclosed environment with an explosive atmosphere (fuel/air mix) and did not ignite. In an enclosed engine compartment it is always safer to comply with the regulation, sort of like a little extra insurance.

In reality, the alternator brushes run on slip rings and produce minimal arcing and so are much safer than the old generators were. I hate to admit it but my old I/O has a standard auto alternator and I never thought twice about it. I am putting together another boat now and purchased a new marine alternator for it just for the piece of mind.
Doug
 
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