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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys,
I know this topic is a little redundant and for that I apologize. After a great weekend in Laughlin/Mohave I decided to take one more run from Davis dam down to Harrahs and back several times. Always fun to make a few early morning speed runs to make sure the folks at the Davis campground aren't sleeping to late. The unfortunate part is when I was putting the boat back on the trailer I noticed some milkshake coming out of the breather and around the dipstick. Upon pulling the valve covers I discovered more milkshake. I'm running a BBF 472 OT headers Berk pump in my 18' Dimarco. I'm running the gate valve basset tee setup. I know some of you guys are going to suggest the Ford is my biggest problem but cut me some slack I just milked my motor. Boat ran great oil pressure good temp good plugs all look good. There was absolutely no indication of a problem other then the milkshake. Inside of valve cover were thoroughly coated with white milky shit not so much however on the dipstick,some evidence of water just not the white stuff. I'm familiar with the Ford timing cover issue as I had to replace it once and it seemed to take care of problem. The boat had been garaged for 5 years prior to this trip so maybe a gasket issue? Thing is everything was fine until that last hour long river run. Anyway totally bummed so I'm trying to get a punch list together so I can start digging in to diagnose and fix. Thanks
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Looks like condensation from running it hard and going straight on the trailer, that is if its not showing milkshake in the pan.... if the oil level hasn't raised at all, run it on the hose and check the oil while its running and see if it shows milkyness on the dipstick or more water appears in the oil pan.
 

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I've experienced the milkshake on more than one occasion. Several possibilities. Had water come through the exhaust when I had logs once. You probably didn't hurt the motor, but you do need to go through the process to remove the milkshake and start over. I was taught by an old school guy the first time I did this to change the oil & filter substituting 1 quart of oil with 1 quart of diesel fuel. Run for 2 minutes, change oil & filter again. Run it to get it to temp. Then the process of finding the issue. Is it something simple like the exhaust or is it a internal gasket or ???

Compression check, leak down test, .....

I had the milkyness under my valve covers with my OT headers until I installed a on/off valve next to my seat for the exhaust. When at idle water to exhaust is off, then I adjust when I'm running always shutting it off to dry out exhaust before shutting engine down.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If I put ball valves at the inlet of each of the header water supply lines and shut them off befor shut down will it do the same as the under seat mount valve? Without filling up the motor?
 

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Looks like condensation from running it hard and going straight on the trailer, that is if its not showing milkshake in the pan.... if the oil level hasn't raised at all, run it on the hose and check the oil while its running and see if it shows milkyness on the dipstick or more water appears in the oil pan.
OK, I am new to all this boat stuff and only here to learn all I can, so please explain something to me about this condensation thing. So please bear with me.

The OP said he made more than one bonsai speed run from the damn to Harrah's. Lets give the OP the benefit of running his oil hot enough to burn off moisture while its being hammered. Maybe 180-200 should burn off any small traces of moisture in the oil given the time it takes to make those runs.

Now he shuts off the engine and BAMB, the moisture of the humid ass desert summer rushes into his cooling engine.
NOW HOW DOES IT ALL GET MIXED INTO HIS OIL WHEN THE ENGINE IS SHUT OFF??

I am worried, because my engine see very similar use. Very little low speed running. Pretty much balls out and shut off. I am concerned this could be happening to me. Never seen it, but then I haven't had the valve covers off in 10 years.



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Simple....it's because the distributor is in the front instead of the back.;):)hand
 

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I would plug your water in and out fittings except one, hook up a radiator tester or similar, pump air into the system, say 5 lbs or so and see if it holds. If not, start testing separate components like each exhaust manifold, etc. Use soapy water to find leak(s) outside engine such as the intake manifold.

Oh, and this is flat hilarious by GN7 "OK, I am new to all this boat stuff and only here to learn all I can"
 

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Simple....it's because the distributor is in the front instead of the back.;):)hand
I've heard a forged crank and 4 bolt mains can fix the milkshake problem.
I would plug your water in and out fittings except one, hook up a radiator tester or similar, pump air into the system, say 5 lbs or so and see if it holds. If not, start testing separate components like each exhaust manifold, etc. Use soapy water to find leak(s) outside engine such as the intake manifold.

Oh, and this is flat hilarious by GN7 "OK, I am new to all this boat stuff and only here to learn all I can"
WTF, Beer 30 posted in another forum that I FINALLY got one post right. Oil related too! I am ecstatic! :partyguy::party-smiley-020::party-smiley-020::partyguy:



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If I had a engine that sat for 5 years and was taken out and ran great all weekend, and when I got home it had a little milkshake in it I would call that a win!!!!!! Change oil and filter,shut water off to headers till ranger stops you and run it until something really goes wrong. JMO from a real novice boater!!!!
 

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OK, I am new to all this boat stuff and only here to learn all I can, so please explain something to me about this condensation thing. So please bear with me.

The OP said he made more than one bonsai speed run from the damn to Harrah's. Lets give the OP the benefit of running his oil hot enough to burn off moisture while its being hammered. Maybe 180-200 should burn off any small traces of moisture in the oil given the time it takes to make those runs.

Now he shuts off the engine and BAMB, the moisture of the humid ass desert summer rushes into his cooling engine.
NOW HOW DOES IT ALL GET MIXED INTO HIS OIL WHEN THE ENGINE IS SHUT OFF??

I am worried, because my engine see very similar use. Very little low speed running. Pretty much balls out and shut off. I am concerned this could be happening to me. Never seen it, but then I haven't had the valve covers off in 10 years.

Maybe im special..... Ive had milky oil in the top end like that before (Which made me consider Condensation as a possibility) not showing on the dip stick (indicating no water in the oil it self) and as you stated when I ran it, it cooked the moisture out of the oil... Sorry for I guess an ignorant comment??? just throwing what little experience I may have had in the past out there. I have little to no experience though....
 

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My gut instinct would be to look at sealing areas where water pressure could push out a gasket and pump water into the crankcase. If this motor sat for 5 years, it would make sense that a seal or 2 got rock hard. Then you go out run it pretty hard. After a couple of heat cycles and water pressure building up against sealing areas, some place lets go. It would only take a very small leak to milk the oil. Also, even though this boat has probably lived in a fresh water environment, don't underestimate the corrosive capabilities of the Colorado river water. It could have eaten up some of the cast aluminum parts again(intake or timing cover). I would be pressure testing the cooling system.

And Mr.Gn, if you read carefully, act respectful, and keep quiet, you might just learn a thing or 2 from some of these guy's around here. :shhh:;)
 

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Maybe im special..... Ive had milky oil in the top end like that before (Which made me consider Condensation as a possibility) not showing on the dip stick (indicating no water in the oil it self) and as you stated when I ran it, it cooked the moisture out of the oil... Sorry for I guess an ignorant comment??? just throwing what little experience I may have had in the past out there. I have little to no experience though....
Same here, that why I asked the question. I was just trying to rationalize it in my mind, Dry desert air, hot running engine cooking out any moisture that might have been in the engine when starting the bonsai runs, and then the humid ass desert air not only got in the engine while it was cooling down, but the shit mixed with the oil with the engine shut off and turned it to a milkshake.

So how do you stop this from happening.



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Same here, that why I asked the question. I was just trying to rationalize it in my mind, Dry desert air, hot running engine cooking out any moisture that might have been in the engine when starting the bonsai runs, and then the humid ass desert air not only got in the engine while it was cooling down, but the shit mixed with the oil with the engine shut off and turned it to a milkshake.

So how do you stop this from happening.
Hell if I know....I agree, looking at the pic a little closer than I did earlier, there is probably somewhere that its pulling water in, but he mentioned that it wasn't showing anything really irregular on the dip stick so I just through that out there because ive seen similar cases that after running to temperature again with out legging it out, it cooked the water out of it... It does look somewhat excessive back by the pushrod openings especially...
 

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Hell if I know....I agree, looking at the pic a little closer than I did earlier, there is probably somewhere that its pulling water in, but he mentioned that it wasn't showing anything really irregular on the dip stick so I just through that out there because ive seen similar cases that after running to temperature again with out legging it out, it cooked the water out of it... It does look somewhat excessive back by the pushrod openings especially...
Don't misunderstand me. I am NOT saying its not condensation, question is, WHEN did it get in there. Before he made his bonsai speed runs up and down the river, or after? How long as this condensation been in there and is it building up and getting worse, or did ALL that happen in one series of runs in a running engine?

If before, WHY is it still in there AFTER making a bunch of bonsai speed runs?
I have no doubt that some condensation gets in my engine, my question is, if I remove my valve covers for the first time 10 years is that what I should expect to see? And how do I stop it?



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It would not be during, Definately after would be my guess and I wouldn't think his engine builds the kind of heat yours does being naturally aspirated to remove moisture out the same. I could be very wrong making that assumption but if there were no signs of water anywhere else that would be my guess.
 

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It would not be during, Definately after would be my guess and I wouldn't think his engine builds the kind of heat yours does being naturally aspirated to remove moisture out the same. I could be very wrong making that assumption but if there were no signs of water anywhere else that would be my guess.
Then MAYBE it should be. Heat in the engine is water flow verses HP. maybe he shouldn't flowing the same amount of water thru the engine I am if he is not making the same HP. Ya think?

My water exit is around 140*, my oil temp is around 250*+. Is his? Has he checked?



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Hell if I know....I agree, looking at the pic a little closer than I did earlier, there is probably somewhere that its pulling water in, but he mentioned that it wasn't showing anything really irregular on the dip stick so I just through that out there because ive seen similar cases that after running to temperature again with out legging it out, it cooked the water out of it... It does look somewhat excessive back by the pushrod openings especially...
The OP states the milkshake is coming out of the dipstick, dipstick. He has significant water in the oil that he will need to find the source.
 

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Breathers getting splashed?
 
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