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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's the best way to isolate water in the oil?
New motor, light milkshake running on the trailer.

Should I isolate and pressure test the water pump (River Rat), intercooler then block?
How much air pressure is safe?
 

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oil in water

When I lose an intercooler the motor hydraulics on start up. you can pressure check the block to about 20 psi max. I have had good luck with the Moroso block sealer. It can save the engine tear down. I also run a oil thermostat set to bypass the oil cooler untill 220 degrees, this will help boil off any condensation since I run the motors at 120 degrees.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Everything is holding steady at 25psi.:|err
 

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In engines that are run for very short periods of time, its common to see some milkshake in the heads and on the undersides of the valve covers. Drain the oil and see what it looks like. If it looks good, and the block holds 25psi....run it and don't worry about it. Oil needs to get over 220 to cook out the moisture...if it doesn't get that hot, you'll see white goo in the valve covers/breathers. So long as the oil in the pan is clean...don't worry about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No such luck, it's a full on pan shake.:D


I guess I'm on the search and repair track, starting with the intake gaskets.:|err
 

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steelcomp was here
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Get the engine good and warm and do the pressure check again. If you have a crack somewhere, there's a chance it won't open enough to leak untill things warm up.
 

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No such luck, it's a full on pan shake.:D


I guess I'm on the search and repair track, starting with the intake gaskets.:|err
As I posted on the other site, try the water pump first I think,, quicker and easier. If it holds 25 lbs, almost certainly not the intake gaskets. Once they start leaking, it washes any sealer away and they won't reseal.

Also, the intercooler did not have water running through it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
As I posted on the other site, try the water pump first I think,, quicker and easier. If it holds 25 lbs, almost certainly not the intake gaskets. Once they start leaking, it washes any sealer away and they won't reseal.

Also, the intercooler did not have water running through it?
Stalker!:D:D

Pump tested fine, even submerged it under pressure.
I checked the chiller core when I had it torn down, it's fed from the water pump.

Shouldn't have a crack anywhere, it was fine before. I had to go through it when the oil pickup fell off. Caught it in time never got hot and just lightly scored the mains. Changed the bearings, honed the cylinders and reassembled, it had very low hours it from the previous build.
Do ARP studs have a limit on reuse?
 

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steelcomp was here
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Stalker!:D:D

Pump tested fine, even submerged it under pressure.
I checked the chiller core when I had it torn down, it's fed from the water pump.

Shouldn't have a crack anywhere, it was fine before. I had to go through it when the oil pickup fell off. Caught it in time never got hot and just lightly scored the mains. Changed the bearings, honed the cylinders and reassembled, it had very low hours it from the previous build.
Do ARP studs have a limit on reuse?
ARP head studs I'm guessing? Shouldn't be an issue unless you've severely over heated or over torqued them. They'll pull out of the block before you can do that, so I think you're OK there.
If you can't find a leak, put some clean oil back in it and run it again. Get it on the water and get the oil temp up, and run it for a good 15min. Sometimes there can be a combination of moisture in the cast iron, humidity, and condensation inside the engine the first time out after a rebuild that can make you think you have a water leak. If after that you come back and have a milkshake, well, shit....
 

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I know it sounds crazy but I have had a water problem in a chevy and it wound up being the head studs. pulled them out and bought a set of good head bolts and installed them and never had another problem. I didnt even pull the heads just changed the studs out with new bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Got the intake off today and it looks like a tiny weep at one port.

I was thinking along the same lines as you SC. It was a light milking with about 30 minutes on the trailer but figured pulling the huffer and chiller doesn't take any time. I have to drag it 5 hours to test drive it.New intake gasket, bolt it up and pray a little.:D:D

Thanks for the responses.

Intake gasket recommendations?

Felpro has been good to me.:D

BBC, MKIV, World heads, chiller, 871, 12#'s.
 

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steelcomp was here
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Got the intake off today and it looks like a tiny weep at one port.

I was thinking along the same lines as you SC. It was a light milking with about 30 minutes on the trailer but figured pulling the huffer and chiller doesn't take any time. I have to drag it 5 hours to test drive it.New intake gasket, bolt it up and pray a little.:D:D

Thanks for the responses.

Intake gasket recommendations?
Felpro has been good to me.:D

BBC, MKIV, World heads, chiller, 871, 12#'s.
Felpro's fine. I usually glue the gasket to the heads with a bead of Super Weatherstrip Adhesive around the ports, and a little silicone around the water passages. Then a littel more silicone around the water passages on the intake side and a thin layer of white grease around the ports. A good bead of Ultra Seal on the ends, and you should be GTG.
 
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