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Discussion Starter #1
After refreshing up my motors ignition parts and carb, it all sounded as good as usual. The last step was a new cap and rotor. After installing them, i fired it up to make sure all was good, and i picked up 200 more R.P.M ,is it possible that i have less resistance now ? I never had a cap and rotor make a difference before. I have a Delco HEI with a MSD box. This is the first time used an MSD cap.
 

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Are you sure the distributor is fully locked down? It sounds like you may have changed the timing a little while changing the cap and rotor...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No, The timing is right on. 32 deg @3000 rpm. The only other thing i can think of is the cap was bad and had me down a cylinder. It sounded fine to me though.
 

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Question...(not totally off topic) > the carbon ball in the cap, and the metal contact spring on the rotor > is it a good practice to put a smear of dielectric grease between the two or, leave it dry??? :hmmm:
BTW...I did read 'somewhere' to make sure the rotor spring has good pressure up-against the carbon button (so not to arc and burn out) by occasionally bending it up slightly. True???
 

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Question...(not totally off topic) > the carbon ball in the cap, and the metal contact spring on the rotor > is it a good practice to put a smear of dielectric grease between the two or, leave it dry??? :hmmm:
BTW...I did read 'somewhere' to make sure the rotor spring has good pressure up-against the carbon button (so not to arc and burn out) by occasionally bending it up slightly. True???
Grease it!



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Discussion Starter #6
I was informed why the RPMs came up and i'm stoked. Thanks, gonna put grease on it. Also i was told to run MSDs coil, so i will be doing that too.
 

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Let me guess. Cheap ass Chinese cap and rotor with aluminum terminals, VS a real honest to God American made cap with brass terminals and no resistor in the cap. Just a guess
Pretty much the case along with Chinese plug wires. Nothing but the best from now on. Was never cheaping out, just didn't know
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Let me guess. Cheap ass Chinese cap and rotor with aluminum terminals, VS a real honest to God American made cap with brass terminals and no resistor in the cap. Just a guess
Pretty much the case along with Chinese plug wires. Nothing but the best from now on. Was never cheaping out, just didn't know
 

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Does the grease really do the trick? Reason asking is, my cap and under side of the rotor get caked in black carbon. The button is still like new, everything else in the distributor is like new as well. I do travel quite a bit, and do travel in rain for long periods of time, small amount of moisture inside the cap and distributor afer tear down. Chasing a small stumble, gets worse after a few races.
 

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Does the grease really do the trick? Reason asking is, my cap and under side of the rotor get caked in black carbon. The button is still like new, everything else in the distributor is like new as well. I do travel quite a bit, and do travel in rain for long periods of time, small amount of moisture inside the cap and distributor afer tear down. Chasing a small stumble, gets worse after a few races.
The grease helps the center button run a little cooler and extends the life of the center carbon button. Most MSD ignition cap failures are in the center carbon button first. The brass sparkplug terminals are usually still OK when the center has burnt away to a concave. The grease helps. Carbon is not unusual in a cap, and needs to be cleaned out periodically or it will cause spark scatter across the sparkplug terminals. Little electronic spray will take it right out.



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