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Glendale Arizona
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
MSD distributor break in?

I've never heard of this before and would like some input. The tag attached to my new MSD distributor says that you shouldn't use any kind of synthetic oil when breaking in the gear on it.

I've got a fresh pan of $90 worth of full synthetic oil and about half an hour of run time on it. Reading these instructions it would have me drain the pan and refill with dino oil to break in the dizzy gear for an hour or two.

Never had to do it with any others and curious as to how serious they are about this.

It came with assembly lube and of course I figured on using that.

Picture came out small but it states:

No synthetic oils should be used during the distributor gear break in period.

Use a standard 30 or 40 weight or multi viscosity oil 10W30 or 20W50
.

 

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not sure about fords, but the gen6 chevy now uses a steel camshaft instead of iron, that needs a melonized dizzy gear mated to it. otherwise it will go kaboom real quik. thats why MSD recommends the dino oil for proper break in on the chevy stuff. maybe ford is doing something like this now too. not sure. think of this way though, that $90 wasted oil seems like alot now, but if you dont and the dizzy gear goes kaboom inside that nice mill, how much will that cost?
 

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I got the same little card when I changed the gear on my current msd. I just added the little bottle of break in additive from comp, but I was running 20-50 and not a synthetic, then ran the oil for three trips and then changed it. Tough call but i'd change the oil then go back to the synthetic after.
 

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Use your old gear off the the old dizzy, that's if it was a msd dizzy.

FWIW, I just ran the damn thing with the lube that the new gear cam with. I just pulled and inspected it last trip and it looks great. I run redline and wasnt about to dump it to break in a gear, but thats just me.

But the choice is yours Dan.

C ya this weekend.
 

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mo balls than $cents$
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it'll be fine, rub a lil moly grease on the gear before dropping it in. i've never seen a dizzy gear get ate up as long as that cam was clearenced right and since a bbf has a backing plate up frt., i'd doubt you could ever screw the gear up.
 

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21 Daytona
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thats the same tag as my new melonized gear came with,
is yours melonized or bronze? I went with the melonized
to eliminate the bronze in the oil.
 

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Glendale Arizona
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thats the same tag as my new melonized gear came with,
is yours melonized or bronze? I went with the melonized
to eliminate the bronze in the oil.
I'm not sure how to tell. It's whatever the stock gear is for use with a hydraulic flat tappet cam. Does it state somewhere if it's melonized? I'd never even heard of it before and had to look it up to find out what it is.
 

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mo balls than $cents$
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I'm not sure how to tell. It's whatever the stock gear is for use with a hydraulic flat tappet cam. Does it state somewhere if it's melonized, or can you tell by looking at it?
1's black, the other's bronze colored:D i thought you had a roller, if its hyd flat tapper, drop that sucker in and run it:)devil
 

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21 Daytona
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I'm not sure how to tell. It's whatever the stock gear is for use with a hydraulic flat tappet cam. Does it state somewhere if it's melonized? I'd never even heard of it before and had to look it up to find out what it is.
yes a MSD melonized looks kind of black powdery,
 

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You could just drain the oil into a clean pan and save it for after the break-in too, if your concerned about it. 15qt drain pan at wal-mart for $7.
 

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Glendale Arizona
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Friggin boat shit. Never fails. Change one little thing and it's the domino affect (or is it effect?). Got the distributor in. I had made a bracket to hold my nitrous solenoids, fuel pressure regulator etc. when I rigged it last year and the new dizzy is too tall. Can't get the wires on with the bracket in place. Now all that has to come off and the the N20 kit will have to be disabled until I can figure out a way to redo everything. Don't have time to get to it before the weekend.

Oh well what the hell. I just want to be able to run this thing a couple more times before it all gets torn apart this winter anyway..
 

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21 Daytona
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5,291 Posts
Friggin boat shit. Never fails. Change one little thing and it's the domino affect (or is it effect?). Got the distributor in. I had made a bracket to hold my nitrous solenoids, fuel pressure regulator etc. when I rigged it last year and the new dizzy is too tall. Can't get the wires on with the bracket in place. Now all that has to come off and the the N20 kit will have to be disabled until I can figure out a way to redo everything. Don't have time to get to it before the weekend.

Oh well what the hell. I just want to be able to run this thing a couple more times before it all gets torn apart this winter anyway..
leave the old distributor on untill winter:)hand
 

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Glendale Arizona
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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Unfortunately I'm changing the old one for more than grins. I've picked up a high rpm miss (actually it's a cylinder that quits firing) and have been battling it all season. I've checked everything else I can think of. New spark plugs, new MSD plug wires (even ohmed them out to be sure), new distributor cap and rotor on the old Mallory unilite, MSD 6AL has been load tested on MSD's diagnostics machine and passed, new MSD blaster II coil (replaced last year when I added the 6AL), valves have been run (not really part of chasing down the miss but had em done anyway), Leak tested and all 8 cylinders are at 5% (once again not really chasing the problem via leakdown, but more for peace of mind).

This cylinder will just stop firing at about 5000 rpm. The distributor is the next suspect. It looks like #2 that's dropping out.

Tough to figure due to

1. I'm not a motor guy and tend to bash around blindly during times like these.
2. It starts and runs fine on the trailer. Problem doesn't occur until you wring it out.

Like I said, it's all coming apart and I'm having my stroker done this winter, but would still like to run it a few more times til then. Even if the distributor doesn't fix the problem, it's something I wanted to put on the new stroker anyway so no loss there.
 

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yes a MSD melonized looks kind of black powdery,
Hold the bus...am I understanding that my 'new' MSD/RTR dizy (w/black looking gear) I just installed Sunday is not compatible with the below Lunati hyd/roller I installed two months ago? I'm pretty sure the Lunati Cam has a black 'Iron' gear on it >>>

BTW, yes the MSD is much taller...I had to trim my scoop :)st
 

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Boat Nut
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5,131 Posts
Hammer unless you asked for the welded on (iron gear) with the cam....yes you need a different gear.
 

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mo balls than $cents$
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Never hard of breaking in a cam gear,I guess you learn somthing new every day:D
:D i have herd and known guys that set their msd dizzy depths to deep and wiped out hyd cam gears:p
 

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Danm that's good to know. Just how do ck. it?:)bulb
You can "pattern" your gear useing something as simple as white grease on the gear , "paint" it with the lube, drop it in install the hold down and rotate the motor by hand a few times , pull the distributor and check the "pattern" on the dizzy gear , different intake castings , head and intake surfacing and a multitude of other things can affect this might be as simple as adding a shim or an extra gasket, Heres some info Tom

BTW Chris Straub is the Guru on this , just went thru "identifying" my particular billet respective to what dizzy gear was compatible and what gears to use a few weeks back somewhat (on a weekend at that) Thanks Chris !
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/distributor_gears/index.html
http://www.classicinlines.com/DizzyGear.asp
 
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