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I'm No Expert
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Discussion Starter #1
I've been lagging on posting the build, gotten a few PM's from people asking what the deal is with it too. So here's the build thread :)

BBC 454 4 bolt Gen 4 Block .070 over
Scat 4.25 Forged Crank
Engine Pro Racing Forged H Beam Rods w/ L19 bolts
Mahle Forged Pistons
Cometic head Gaskets (.030 thick)
GM 990 Heads with some port work and larger intake valves (2.25)
Chris Straub Cam
MSD 6AL + Crank Trigger + locked out Pro-Billet Dist
Edelbrock Victor JR Tunnel Ram
Bigs Performance Stage 5 750 holley carbs
Morel Solid Lifters
Scorpion 1.7 Roller Rockers
B&B Jet boat pan from rex
Melling HiVol oil Pump
 

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I'm No Expert
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3,139 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Parts Pics

New Scat 4.25 Forged Crank from Chris Straub (cstraub).



Engine Pro Rods, Forged, H-Beam w/ L19 bolts. There site says these rods support up to 1500 HP. I had both ends of the rods checked. The small end was on the tight side (.0007) and mahle wanted to see more like .0008-.001. I had them dusted to .0009. The big end i also had checked and dusted.



Mahle Forged Pistons. This time around i went with a floating pin, these use the wire locks.



Mahle Box piston info
 

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I'm No Expert
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3,139 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
For all that dont know... this winter i pulled the motor to do some work on the boat. I had a small oil leak that i though was comming from the front of my pan. So i pulled the pan and also cut open the filter. I put one of those magnetic dealio's on my filter and what i found was alot of junk where the magnet was. I started pulling caps and found that junk ran through the motor. After talking to [email protected] he recommended i at least change the rod bearings. I pulled the crank to find 3 tight rods, after talking with dave again i pulled her apart and find 3 burnt pins. I also found that the bores for these cylinders where out of spec so i needed to go bigger. I decided at that time to go with stroker crank and to build a strong bottom end. The block was honed to .070, deck was surfaced, and block line honed. New cam bearings where put in as well.


Picture of me stripping down the block and also cleaning up a bit more of the flash. Check out that sweet google appren, google gave me a cook book too... This all can be yours if you advertise with them, you only have to pay them out the ass :D



Got the little guy helping me clean/wash the block. The machine shop said they already cleaned it but at this point i figured i should do it myself to make sure....



Primed!


And Painted
 

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I'm No Expert
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3,139 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
While the heads where off i took them back to Bob Mckray for a valve job, they only had 2 seasons on them since the last job he did. Chris wanted to see some better flow numbers so i had bob to some more port work to them. Here's the new flow sheet




Here are my old flow numbers before he ported them, these where from my first build. http://reitanfamily.com/misc/buildspecs.html
 

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I'm No Expert
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3,139 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
When checking the clearance on the mains the first time it was a mess. My measurments where all over the place. I had this same problem the frist build but ended up just thinking it was my tools. This time around i stuck with it and found that the block needed a line hone. After the line hone things where closer to where they should be.....

Here's the end result clearance wise on the mains.

#1 .0028 to .0031 (bore is not quiet right)
#2 .0027
#3 .0027
#4 .0027
#5 .0031 ( again, not quiet right, with no oil pump it measured .0026 )

I ended up using a set of std bearings and a set of .001 unders... Except on #1 where i used both under halfs.

half of rear main installed



Cranks layed, checking end play. end play i was able to get .007 but it wasnt all that easy to move back and forth. THe book talks about guys using a lead hammer to wack the crank forward and back to get end play. My assembly lube i could hear suctioning/sticking when trying to move the crank back and forth so i think thats what was causing me to have to use alittle extra force. MPZ ass lube btw...


Also in the pic above i had the longer main bolts, i ended up having to cut these off (removed them first of course).
 

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I'm No Expert
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3,139 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
So the pistons where alittle sharp on the corners... so i took my dremel tool and buzzed them smooth and then hit them by hand to finish them off.



Pistons all smoothed out.


I followed the piston instructions for setting ring gap. I went with the 150 HP NOS clearances since i figure i may spray alittle on this down the road :)devil I did alot better this time cutting the rings. My first build my clearances where alittle off accross the board. This time around i got a good feel for it and could basically count out how many turns i needed. I also did alot better keeping the angle right when cutting!



Used that toal seal stuff on the cylinders, had to clean and reapply to a couple bores.



Me and my dad, trying to get that shitty ring compressor on. I wanted to buy one of those nice pre set sized ones but summit said there was a 4 week wait for the .070 model...




Down they go!



All in!



 

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Discussion Starter #8
Lubing up the lifters with MPZ cam lube


Lifters, Pushrods and Rockers installed. Also got on the timing cover and balancer.



New B&B jetboat pan, got ride of the dooley 14 quart i had



Just another pic


Up Up and away, it's easier to get the motor into the boat with out a manifold. Got the little guy helpin again! Left to right... Dad, little brother, and Me.



Can you tell my dads been laying on the floor :)



Struggelin... poor guy only weights about 33 pounds :D
 

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Discussion Starter #10
SuperDave! Sweet Performance!

I got to give a huge thanks to Dave over at sweet performance. Anybody looking for fittings, line, etc you should definitly give him a call. Dave has spent a huge amount of time with me. When i originally plumbed this boat i brang it up to him and he came out and spent probably 2-3 hours getting me all setup. We even started with -10 and ended up finding out that -8 would fit better and he pulled everything off and started over. Dave spiffified my rails on his mill and helped me route my new carb/manifold setup. Also i left my impeller with dave to see if he could buzz off the edge so it would work with a berk bowl and he drove it for me over to another shop all so i could have it done that day! Dave, your the man! Thanks for everything! Here are those pics you said you wanted, i'll get you some originals!














 

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just a ski boat with bark
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Way too many distractions here Shaun
LOL, I'll bet that's "The Boss" that's ram rodding this project and watching the budget. In other words he better keep the boss happy. :p:)sphss:D
 
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