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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can someone help me out here, I have a water leak at what I call a "Nylon Coupler", the water leaks from the front of it. Also "what are the procedures"
to replace the coupler. I can grab the coupler and it moves all around and what is the correct name of this coupler, as I need to tell the people at the marine parts what I need to buy....... I am new at this.
Thanks in advance for your help
Cactus
 

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Packing....

I think that shaft log seal has a "rope" seal in it. Gently tighten the two hex shaped pieces together and it may seal your leak.....Ray
 

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Ray is correct, as usual:). If that doesn't stop the leak you can replace the rope packing on the inside with new packing. That should fix you up...:)

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ray is correct, as usual:). If that doesn't stop the leak you can replace the rope packing on the inside with new packing. That should fix you up...:)

Steve
I tried to tighten the two hex shaped pieces together,but it was as tight as it would go. My question is how do I remove the two hex pieces from the shaft so I can replace the rope packing.? Do I loosen the allen screw from the clam on the shaft and slide it up forward..? Still learning
Thanks for a quick response !!!
 

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I tried to tighten the two hex shaped pieces together,but it was as tight as it would go. My question is how do I remove the two hex pieces from the shaft so I can replace the rope packing.? Do I loosen the allen screw from the clam on the shaft and slide it up forward..? Still learning
Thanks for a quick response !!!
The nylon pieces screw together. Unscrew the forward most one and pull it forward (slide the safety collar forward to do this). This is a part made by Teleflex (formerly by Morse). I have replacement rope packing for it if you need. If it is damaged I should have the whole unit. There are round plastic discs inside that set against the rope packing. If these are gone (chewed up, burned up) you need to replace the unit.

The key with the rope stuffing boxes is to let them drip every few seconds to lubricated the packing. This is how they are intended to be used. A common mistake is to crank them down tight and it burns up the packing then they leak like a sieve. There should be a long cotter pin holding the 2 halves in adjustment so they don't turn in relation to each other after you install. I used one of these for many years very successfully.
 

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If you have the time and the space ,the best thing to do is to back the prop shaft out far enough to get the shaft seal assembly out. Then you can clean it and repack it with new Wax rope. Doing it out of the boat will help you get it just right before you reassemble it.. As was stated before do not over tighen it. A small amount of water coming out is a good thing... I just looked at the picture of your seal and it looks like it is junk.. See above post....Rexone has the answer
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Looks like I have a project to take care of, this is definitely a challenge for me. !! I sure wish I had a video on how to do this, I'll use the old school method live and learn. Thanks for sharing your "knowledge" with me...This will be a weekend undertaking for me. If I have any problems I will post them.
Thanks Guys :)
 

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Cactus looking at your pictures more closely the above post is correct, your seal is toast. You are going to need to pull your shaft back far enough to get it off and a new one on. I would replace your hose while your at it and use a longer piece (less side pressure), 10" or so would be good. There are many seal types available and the one you have is not my first choice.

I would use the 390188 style dual seal model we make or the ones demarco21 is making seem to be working well also.

Looking at your vdrive flange it is likely your shaft is held in that flange with a couple set screws. You will need to remove those and slide the shaft out. You may need to unbolt the 4 bolt coupler to accomplish this. If you have to get the shaft back very far you will likely need to remove your prop. If the shaft hits the rudder you could need to drop that as well. No way to tell without looking at your setup and getting into it. Good idea to check the strut bushing for looseness at this juncture as long as you are working on the shaft. If you need assistance just give a call.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Cactus looking at your pictures more closely the above post is correct, your seal is toast. You are going to need to pull your shaft back far enough to get it off and a new one on. I would replace your hose while your at it and use a longer piece (less side pressure), 10" or so would be good. There are many seal types available and the one you have is not my first choice.

I would use the 390188 style dual seal model we make or the ones demarco21 is making seem to be working well also.

Looking at your vdrive flange it is likely your shaft is held in that flange with a couple set screws. You will need to remove those and slide the shaft out. You may need to unbolt the 4 bolt coupler to accomplish this. If you have to get the shaft back very far you will likely need to remove your prop. If the shaft hits the rudder you could need to drop that as well. No way to tell without looking at your setup and getting into it. Good idea to check the strut bushing for looseness at this juncture as long as you are working on the shaft. If you need assistance just give a call.
Rexone, thanks for sharing your knowledge as I can use all the help as I study closely what I am getting into.!f I need assistance I will call for aid.
Danny
 

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Seal

First off like rex said get a new seal. Then take off your safety collar and loosen the set screws on your coupler, then look and see how much room you have between your prop and rudder. You will need about 6 inches to do this. If you have enough room once everything is loosened, slide your propshaft back making sure you also loosened your old seal, then undo your hose clamps on the shaft log [the piece your shaft slides through bolted to the floor] and slide it off and replace with the new piece including as rex stated a new hose about 6 to 8 inches long. Depending on how far you can slide your propshaft back, you may need to put the hose and the seal on seperatly. Then at this point you should be able to put it back together, and don't forget to put your safety collar back on.:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Flat Chance, I have about 7in from prop to rudder, I should be ok.Next I remove the 4 bolts from the coupler and slide the prop shaft back..? plz keep in mind as this is a learning curve for me...
Danny
 

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Flat Chance, I have about 7in from prop to rudder, I should be ok.Next I remove the 4 bolts from the coupler and slide the prop shaft back..? plz keep in mind as this is a learning curve for me...
Danny
Those 4 bolts hold the coupler to the v-drive, you should have set screws holding the shaft in it. If you can rotate your propshaft around you should see them close to where you shaft inserts in the coupler. You need to separate the shaft from the coupler so you will be able to slide the old seal off.
 

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Looking at your picks you look like your on the right track, if you can't see any set screws go ahead and undo those four bolts, your shaft should also have a keyway in it that is inside your coupler that's why there should be set screws holding it in place. Most of us on here use a split coupler, let me know if you want to change it over, I have a couple of spares laying around for a 1 inch propshaft. Your coupler is sometimes used when the output shaft on your v-drive is larger or smaller than your propshaft diameter, I am assuming they are both 1 inch. Let me know how it goes.:D
 

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OK Danny

OK Danny, that set up is totally different than what I thought it was.....It is not a split coupler, (although it should be).....As mentioned, look for the set screw(s) holding the shaft in......Also as mentioned, I have several 4 bolt couplers laying around, but it looks like your output shaft is quite short for a split coupler.....New ballgame from what I've been telling you through PMs....And where are you? Maybe some one with experience can stop by and give you a few hints towards SAFETY.......Ray

OK guys, Danny is in Azusa, and could use a little experienced help with this critical shaft/coupler area. Any one near Azusa that has a few minutes to help him out?.........Respond here, or shoot him a PM, please....
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
You guys have been "extremely" helpful in guiding me in this project as I don't want to screw it up. This site rocks. :)hand
 

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Cactus that appears to be a Casale C500 box and they come with the mating flanges for the propshaft which are fine in this application. That shaft should come out by backing off the setscrews and if not like said above take the 4 bolts out then you can tap it off.

Inspect the end of the shaft for any cracks around the key slot. We are in San Dimas [909-592-1000] if you need anything. I have dual and single seal assemblies in stock, am presently out of the white plastic type you have (which is not my first choice anyway). Don't forget, check your strut bushing to make sure it is not excessively loose. Now is the time to fix that if it is.

You should also replace the hose if it shows any signs of softness from oil or hardness from age, or wear. The hose is relatively cheap and hard to get to later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Update, just thought I would share with you guys what the status of my project is... I finely found the set screws that were hiding from my view by turning the crank shaft to spin the prop shaft, there they were 2 of them, I said cool, I removed one on them with little trouble but the second set screw
I could tell was going to be a problem because when I put the allen wrench in the set screw it was sloppy, I said not good and sure enough it striped. @#$%&*$#@ Crap and that was before I soaked it with WD40. I then had to remove the Drive Shaft so I can drill out the set screw...... I will do that tomorrow as I ran out of time, Here are a few pics of where I am. I will keep you posted.....REXONE I thought I would have had the shaft out and at your store to buy the replacement parts but that did not happen.
Danny
 

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