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jetboataholic
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Discussion Starter #1
I was recently informed that my plumbing setup on my boat was incorrect. I need some pictures or diagrams of the correct setup and route of plumbing for the water cooling lines. Thank you.

Here are a couple pictures of my current setup. Thanks again.
 

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Just have one out coming off therm. housing,into the bassett t valve and then the split goes to each header. I don't see your dump/ overboard line. oops just read the pic. part.
 

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pic


the one out of the thermostate housing is going out the back of the boat(dump line) the one off the thermostat goes to the bassett t and then to the injection for the headers. there is a valve on the dump line so you can close it to send more water/ or water earlier to the headers.
 

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jetboataholic
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
How's the dump valve work? And what is it? Where does it go? I don't have one. Can I build one from plumbing parts? Thank you.

Nice pic. Thanks.
 

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Dump valve is a bung fitting going through the hull for water to pass through a ball valve will work for control of water flow and temp.of motor!
 

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Take the valve you have at the thermostat housing and use it for the dump line inline! I PM you to help you out with this info.

Coby

WT
 

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Bassett T-Valve is a ball check valve that is spring loaded!
 

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jetboataholic
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
How do you keep water from going into your headers when at IDLE?

Pumping is simple, you have most of it right, you need a basset valve or somthing controlling water into your headers, you should have one more line comming out of your manifold that will dump out the back.

Have you not ran it with your current pumping yet?

No, it hasn't even seen daylight for a year and a half. It hasn't even been rolled out of the shop! The motor hasn't run for more than 30 seconds at a time, had some issues! The above pics were taken in October of 07. It is just now going back together after being completely disassembled shortly after those pics were taken! That's all worked out now and it's finally going back together now.

Ok now that that's out of the way. I have a Basset T-valve, just didn't know where to put it. And can I run a line from the other thermostat fitting that runs out the back of the boat? The very few dump lines I have seen were near the pump, before the water goes into the motor. But the line from the thermo would be preferable to me if it would work. Thank you.
 

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It doesn't matter if your dump line or the header line comes off the thermostat housing or out of the front of the intake. You just need 2 , 1 for the dump line,and the other to the bassett t valve and split from there to the headers. The valve on the dump line is to adjust at what rpm your headers become "wet". I think 2200 rpm's is what you should make the headers get water. There is a zillion ways to do it but thats the general idea.
 

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I'm No Expert
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Ok, from the beggining..

1. You should have one line comming out of your pump, this line needs to turn into two lines so use a T.

2. Next take those 2 lines and they need to run to the front of the motor where the water pump normally bolts. This is where you have the black lines connected now that are right next to the timing cover.

3. Now you need lines out. Your thermostat housing has two outs, right now you have it setup so that each out goes to each header from the looks of it. You need to take one of those outs and connect it to the basset valve, then from the basset valve you need to run a line to each header. The basset valve has 3 connections and looks like a capital T you want the line from the motor to connect to the bottom of the T, and then have the headers connect to each side.

4. Now take the other port you have on your thermostat housing and run that all the way to the transom to a dump port.

I'm not sure if you have a thermostat or not but if you do you need to get ride of it if i'm not mistaken. Reason being is that if the t-stat is closed no water will get to your headers or leave the motor. Also i'm not sure if your motor pulling cold water will be able to get the water warm enough to open. I'm no expert in that department i just know i dont run one and there's a special T-stat housing to use that has a bypass if you do.

Sorry if i'm writing this out like i'm explaining this to a child, i'm just trying to be clear.
 

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jetboataholic
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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
It doesn't matter if your dump line or the header line comes off the thermostat housing or out of the front of the intake. You just need 2 , 1 for the dump line,and the other to the bassett t valve and split from there to the headers. The valve on the dump line is to adjust at what rpm your headers become "wet". I think 2200 rpm's is what you should make the headers get water. There is a zillion ways to do it but thats the general idea.

Thank you very much!:D Do I just play around with it and adjust it, first time on the water, until water comes out of the headers at the desired RPM? Would you suggest adding a pressure gauge to the system somewhere? Thanks again for your help.

Ok, from the beggining..

1. You should have one line comming out of your pump, this line needs to turn into two lines so use a T.

2. Next take those 2 lines and they need to run to the front of the motor where the water pump normally bolts. This is where you have the black lines connected now that are right next to the timing cover.

3. Now you need lines out. Your thermostat housing has two outs, right now you have it setup so that each out goes to each header from the looks of it. You need to take one of those outs and connect it to the basset valve, then from the basset valve you need to run a line to each header. The basset valve has 3 connections and looks like a capital T you want the line from the motor to connect to the bottom of the T, and then have the headers connect to each side.

4. Now take the other port you have on your thermostat housing and run that all the way to the transom to a dump port.

I'm not sure if you have a thermostat or not but if you do you need to get ride of it if i'm not mistaken. Reason being is that if the t-stat is closed no water will get to your headers or leave the motor. Also i'm not sure if your motor pulling cold water will be able to get the water warm enough to open. I'm no expert in that department i just know i dont run one and there's a special T-stat housing to use that has a bypass if you do.

Sorry if i'm writing this out like i'm explaining this to a child, i'm just trying to be clear.

The step by step thing is fine.:D It was probably a pretty stupid question to begin with,:)sphss but I think that pretty much clears it all up now. And I am not running a thermostat. Thanks everyone!:D
 

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jetboataholic
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Discussion Starter #15
Yes, I have a water temp gauge. The wire hooks up to the sensor on the front of the manifold. Thanks.:D
 

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As far as adjusting your headers, the bassett valve will get you close even with it(the valve on the dump line) wide open. You don't have to worry as much as I do, I have tt bassetts and if I run my headers to dry, I end up with a couple of 4" holes in the back of my boat.:D
 

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there is a diagram on bassetts wabsite, bassettracing.com pretty much just a picture of what shaun explained to you. i think this link will take you right to the picture http://www.bassettracing.com/newpage7.htm#Jet-Drive Application Diagram

now, sorry to jack your thread but I have a related question, I plumbed my headers just like in the diagram, temp is hanging at about 150 but when i fire it up to back it off the trailer my headers stay dry for about 30 seconds or so then they get wet and start to steam at idle and continue to do so the whole time I am on the water. What do you guys think, is the spring in my t valve weak or maybe just the valve on the dump is closed too far and it is building too much pressure and opening the t valve? It is a used t valve that I bought on ebay so it could just be worn out. any other ideas?
 

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jetboataholic
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Discussion Starter #19
I've heard stories of my headers being run dry at WOT, back when it had a 454 in it, at night and the entire curved area was cherry red. These headers have been through hell. Hell, the whole boats been through hell. They'd get really drunk and drive stupid.:)sphss It's been on fire, it's been run ashore several times, when the engine went out, and a whole lot of one shit. The people who lived on the river even started a petition to get it off the river because the previous owner would go out at the crack of dawn and run wide open down the river, which has high cliff walls on both sides most of the way, with the water turned off to the headers. And then he would do another run right before everyone went to bed. And if I'm not mistaken, I think they actually did get him kicked off the river. Crazy drunks!:D Don't know what brought all this on, I guess it was on my mind right now, but I have typed it out, so it's getting posted. Thanks for all your help.:D
 

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now, sorry to jack your thread but I have a related question, I plumbed my headers just like in the diagram, temp is hanging at about 150 but when i fire it up to back it off the trailer my headers stay dry for about 30 seconds or so then they get wet and start to steam at idle and continue to do so the whole time I am on the water. What do you guys think, is the spring in my t valve weak or maybe just the valve on the dump is closed too far and it is building too much pressure and opening the t valve? It is a used t valve that I bought on ebay so it could just be worn out. any other ideas?
Pull the basset valve apart, if you have done this before or sombody else did they may have put the spring in backwards. If you do this the first time there's enough pressure to activate the basset valve the ball will squeeze inbetween the spring and when pressure drops you'll never get it to properly seal again. You just need to pull the ball out, flip the spring around and it sould be ok. The spring will have a big end and a small end, obviously the small end should face the ball. While you have it apart make sure the ball and housing dont have any corrosion or debris that may be keeping it from closeing.

Another thing that could be happening is you just might have too much pressure at idle, there's alot of talk about this, my dad ran my boat for years with no pressure regulator and we never had problems with water squeezing by gaskets but he did have to run rubber freeze plugs... he though it was from the sand eating away the brass ones that would blow them out but i think it was from pressure. I cant verify this becuase when i went through my boat i installed a pressure reg, put it on the lowest setting and it was perfect. I only see about 15# of pressure, my basset valve opens at 10-12# according to my guage.

As for why it takes 30 seconds to see water out of the headers, you would be supprised how much water the block and lines hold and how long it can take to fill it!!
 
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