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Discussion Starter #1
I need to cut a hole in the top of the bow above the U-bolt to replace the U bolt. It can not be acessed from the cabin around fuel tank and the expanding foam in the front of the boat. I am planning on trying a hole saw, but running it backwards to keep from pf&^king up the paint and gel coat, if I am headed in the wrong direction stop me please!!! I have a plan to seal the hole with a bow light and silicone so it can be acessed again in the future. Thanks in advance guys.
 

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The Pool Bitch
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Souds perfect to me. Is there already a bow light there. If so, be careful not to wrap up the wires with the hole saw. If there isn't, are you able to fish the wires with the tank and foam?
 

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Banne'd
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks a ton guys!

Put some masking tape down, it will keep the gel from chipping. You could also put a vent cover over the hole. Something like this http://www.iboats.com/T_H_Marine_Louvered_Vent_Cover/dm/cart_id.764953868--session_id.128132039--view_id.47932

I'm sure with a little searching you could find a purdy'r one. Or depending on how it would look you could put a cup holder in the hole. If it's going to look dorky or out of place don't do it.
thanks for everything guys, especially the masking tape thing. I think i can fish the wires past the tank and foam but if not the bow light will be better looking than the cup holder, but that is a great idea for a boat with seats in the bow, but mine is a closed bow and i think i have found a light in overtons that i like cuz it flips over to just a flat piece of chrome. I have to find out if it is water tight before i buy it and i like the look of a smooth bow.
 

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FWIW, holesaws cut fiberglass better with some water on the cut surface, keeps the blades cooler too, I normally use a big sponge soaked in tapwater.

The added benefit is it stops the chatter.....(just use waterproof masking tape)

GT :)hand
 

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Discussion Starter #6
FWIW, holesaws cut fiberglass better with some water on the cut surface, keeps the blades cooler too, I normally use a big sponge soaked in tapwater.

The added benefit is it stops the chatter.....(just use waterproof masking tape)

GT :)hand
Sounds great, I am re-plumbing the motor and bassets right now, but the U bolt is up next. I will post pics when I finish so everyone can see how it turns out.
 

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thanks for everything guys, especially the masking tape thing. I think i can fish the wires past the tank and foam but if not the bow light will be better looking than the cup holder, but that is a great idea for a boat with seats in the bow, but mine is a closed bow and i think i have found a light in overtons that i like cuz it flips over to just a flat piece of chrome. I have to find out if it is water tight before i buy it and i like the look of a smooth bow.
I have a new one for sale in the part spam section under "misc. used garage clutter"
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Bought this one

asl246007.jpg
I will post a pic when it is done. Got sidetracked off the bow eye for putting in a new floor, coating the bildge, pulling motor and putting in new head gaskets, stabbing the motor back in, putting in a pointless ignition, installing oil drain, new lights on the trailer, and new carpet. Gotta love projet boats.:)st
 

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Discussion Starter #10
cut the hole with a jigsaw with a 36 tpi "metal" blade and used masking tape, for anyone doing the same, use it on medium to high speed. Zero of the gelcoat chipped and it fits really good, the lines on the paint are fiberglass dust stuck on the adhesive left by the tape. It is going to look great and there is plenty of room to fish the wires for the light.
hole4light.jpg light.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The bow eye turned out to be a biatch, the hole is just barely bug enough for me to squeeze my hand through (minus a few pieces of skin here and there), and as I did not cut the hoie directly above the eye it was even more of a pain to thread on the coupling nuts, remove the rotten wood, pack in JB stickweld were the wood used to be. Tomorrow I will finish the bow eye, run the wires and drain line, and screw the light down.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
pics

First is finished product with the flat side up, second is the light side up previous to screwing it down (ignore the smudges). light1.jpg light.jpg
 

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So, does that thing rotate so that you can hide the light? I've got to think about lights eventually with mine. I'm redoing a '72 Pioneer with the same motor and pump as yours.
 
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