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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
i have a 1977 daytona elimnator with a 468 bbc it has a tunnel ram with 650s on it steel cast heads rectangler port heads 110cc 10:1 compression flat tops motor spins at 5000 rpms i want to pull out the solid cam and go roller i had with all the idling and going threw no wake zones you have to watch your center line since i run wet headers so i was lookinga t some choices not sure to hyd roller or mechanical like to know what you guys think ? oh and in the futer i wil be going to alluminim heads as well here a few choices i was thinking of chime in and let me know your thoughts just bought this boat last year and love it !!!The hyd roller you can order a CL120665-12 this is a cam and lifter kit cost 741.23
For a mech roller 120043-10 680/663 lift 253/259 duration @ .050 l/c 110 cost 331.42 and lifter 91135 cost 642.00


Howards Cams Steel Billet Mechanical Roller Camshafts 120043-10 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing..................... Howards Cams, Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Camshaft & Lifter Kit, Chev BB, 243/249 @ .050, .640/.640, 110 LS - Competition Products ......................... this one is fron lunati and they would do a custom grinds Hyd $285.08 Lifters 72431-16 $782.76231/239
600/600
113 lsa
110 icl



Solid $335.30 Lifter 72405-16 $381.00
231/237
629/639
113 LSa
110 ICL
 

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mines a crower solid roller around .600 lift 252 - 262 dur if I remember right it idles at 1000 very smoothly easy start and i'm running about 5200 single 850
 

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If you were to do the cam and heads at the same time, you would only have to buy one set of pushrods.

Also, you should be aware that the impeller needs to match the power curve of the engine, so just changing the cam may not give you much of an rpm increase. Due to that fact, you may be better off consulting a pump specialist prior to doing anything else with the engine, it's possible cutting down the impeller may give you more speed with your current combination, or if not, certainly you will want to get it cut if you put in a larger cam and plan to turn more rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If you were to do the cam and heads at the same time, you would only have to buy one set of pushrods.

Also, you should be aware that the impeller needs to match the power curve of the engine, so just changing the cam may not give you much of an rpm increase. Due to that fact, you may be better off consulting a pump specialist prior to doing anything else with the engine, it's possible cutting down the impeller may give you more speed with your current combination, or if not, certainly you will want to get it cut if you put in a larger cam and plan to turn more rpm.
shit i forgot i have to change push rods lol i know the impeller is a/b stainless hmmmmm you have a good point
 

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If you were to do the cam and heads at the same time, you would only have to buy one set of pushrods.

Also, you should be aware that the impeller needs to match the power curve of the engine, so just changing the cam may not give you much of an rpm increase. Due to that fact, you may be better off consulting a pump specialist prior to doing anything else with the engine, it's possible cutting down the impeller may give you more speed with your current combination, or if not, certainly you will want to get it cut if you put in a larger cam and plan to turn more rpm.

I had a few jets back in the day with similar combo's and they ran a bunch better than that, Obnoxious is pointing you in the right direction.
 

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if it's a bbc era 1977 you probably have a good enough set of heads. without knowing casting numbers it's a tough call. Spinning a stainless impeller eats RPM but worth it. Now back a bit. When you changed the cam to a solid roller did you change the valve springs also.You are right if you want a smooth idle go with a wide LSA. I would recommend about 114* Lift @ +580-.duration @ 238-242 @ .050. I have ran a solid roller with 9.5 compression GOOD SPRINGS ,577 lift and .248-.248 duration on a 109* lobe center and idled at 1k with alittle lope but not bad.But The big question is what do you expect out the boat And what is it?Mark
 

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shit i forgot i have to change push rods lol i know the impeller is a/b stainless hmmmmm you have a good point
And valve springs need replacing for a solid roller, may get by with the same springs for a hydraulic roller, but important to pull at least one spring and check pressure at installed and full open heights.

I had a few jets back in the day with similar combo's and they ran a bunch better than that, Obnoxious is pointing you in the right direction.
A few years back I built a single carb, 9.6-1 compression engine that made 617 HP on the dyno. I had told the owner while the engine was built that he would need pump work. He went ahead and tried it with the stock impeller and could only turn the A around 5000 or so RPM. He did go on to have the pump done later. He was excited about the power with the stock impeller, but having the pump done brought the engine to life!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
if it's a bbc era 1977 you probably have a good enough set of heads. without knowing casting numbers it's a tough call. Spinning a stainless impeller eats RPM but worth it. Now back a bit. When you changed the cam to a solid roller did you change the valve springs also.You are right if you want a smooth idle go with a wide LSA. I would recommend about 114* Lift @ +580-.duration @ 238-242 @ .050. I have ran a solid roller with 9.5 compression GOOD SPRINGS ,577 lift and .248-.248 duration on a 109* lobe center and idled at 1k with alittle lope but not bad.But The big question is what do you expect out the boat And what is it?Mark
i know the boat can run better all around speed and making h/p i know the cam is wrong in the boat ! so i guess i want to build a good runing engine with h/p and then ill have to redo the impeller i know the motor is fresh in the boat i bought so i wan tto make it right and if you mean by what is the boat its 1977 DAYTONA ELIMNATOR
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ok little update wanted your guys thoughts as well on set of heads like i said i want rectangler port heads alluminum because i am running my edlebrock tunnel ram set with 650s but i want to stick 110cc heads so i keep my 10;1 compression and run pump gas i was think about the edlebrock marine heads or mbey someone said to try the victor 24 degree heads are good as well ...
 

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Duty, I cant help but think you are headed into the spend a bunch, gain little territory. Like I said earlier your combo should be doing better as it sits. There are some really good guys on here that have probably seen this post and know whats up.

If your willing to drop several thousand on heads and cam because you think it will work then you should be willing to spend the same time and money making sure your foundation is sound first.

I can't specifically recommend anyone here but I would try to find someone willing to work with you.

You have a nice boat.:))THumbsUp
 

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Discussion Starter #14
duty, i cant help but think you are headed into the spend a bunch, gain little territory. Like i said earlier your combo should be doing better as it sits. There are some really good guys on here that have probably seen this post and know whats up.

If your willing to drop several thousand on heads and cam because you think it will work then you should be willing to spend the same time and money making sure your foundation is sound first.

I can't specifically recommend anyone here but i would try to find someone willing to work with you.

You have a nice boat.:))thumbsup
thanx !
 

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Don`t underestimate those cast iron rect. port heads. Do you know their casting number? I agree on the spend a bunch, gain a little theory. Open or closed loader? Timing above 3,000 rpm`s?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
don`t underestimate those cast iron rect. Port heads. Do you know their casting number? I agree on the spend a bunch, gain a little theory. Open or closed loader? Timing above 3,000 rpm`s?
no i dont but i didnt build the engine someone else did and its got a rectangler tunnel ram with ovel port heads
 

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I have used square tunnel rams on oval heads couple of times. Last one was a 468 similar to yours and it would spin 65-6700

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

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my heads are ovel port closed chamber that someone made rect. and I smoothed and blended to fit duel plane intake, havealum heads and single plane to go on but until I do pump and bottom no sense changing as I only gained 1 mph going from stock 320 hp 454 to 489 ci about 525 hp
 

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Good read

This is my current cam in my boat, small solid roller profile from Comp Cams. The 300BR-14 offered 0.652 lift, a 255/262 duration split and 114-degree, http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CC&Product_Code=11-694-8&Category_Code=MARKIVCAMMRCB

ITs a cam to specifically to be used with a power adder like a blowe, turbos or nitrous.

Its a 496ci motor, pump gas deal and made over 723hp @ 6500rpm and 672lb-ft @ 5600 rpms, with a single 4150 carb deal, sense then I switched over to a edelbrock tunnel ram deal with a Nitrous fogger system, my dyno guy said the tunnel ram would give me 30-50 more hp but obviously I loose in the weight dept between the 2, but it sure looks the part.:yes:

Its been a great motor ive ran for a couple seasons by now with the same set up, it really comes alive on the nitrous with the setup I have, without the spray I hit 6k RPMS, thats around 680hp, with the Nitrous I hit 6500-6700 (right around where my motor makes max hp) depending on the weather and NOS bottle PSI..

Here are my head spects.

Edelbrock E-CNC 355


Edelbrock has stepped up in a big way recently with new performance offerings and these E-CNC 335 heads are a perfect example. Proudly made in the USA, the E-CNC heads offered plenty of flow, peaking at 391 cfm on the intake and 285 cfm on the exhaust. Sporting the smallest combustion chamber of the bunch at 107cc, the Edelbrock heads produced the highest static compression ratio. Naturally this helped power, allowing the E-CNC heads to produce 723 hp and 627 lb-ft of torque.
  • Retail Price-$1,630 (required spring upgrade)
  • Intake Valve Size-2.30
  • Exhaust Valve Size-1.88
  • Intake Port Vol-353cc
  • Chamber Volume-107 cc
  • Exhaust Port Vol-135 cc
  • Peak Power- 723 hp @ 6,500 rpm
  • Peak Torque- 627 lb-ft @ 5,600 rpm
  • Ave HP (3,500-6,500)-573.5 hp
  • Ave TQ (3,500-6,500)- 599.9 lb-ft
  • TQ @ 4,000 RPM-574.0 lb-ft
Edelbrock E-CNC 355
Flow Data: CFM @ 28-ins
LiftInEx
.0503329
.1007361
.200148132
.300224185
.400283226
.500334252
.600364270
.700385278
.800381285
 

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