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Discussion Starter #1
So I bought a new 2013 2500HD with the Duramax LML with z71 and 4wd with electronic transfer case. I've been searching a bunch of other diesel forums with no good results.

Truck has 8k on it now and am going to do the engine oil and change the spin on external filter for the allison trans. I've read that some are suggesting drain the rear end fluid and replace with new at around 5-10k to get rid of the break in material which seems extreme to me. Also draining and replacing trans fluid at 5-10k as well which again seems extreme.

Just curious what maintenance you other duramax owners suggest and have done with your rigs. Figured a lot of people on this forum would be more prone to preventive maintenance then just the bare minimum so i'd get some good solid advice here which I can't seem to find on the other forums.

I'm still young and dumb and this is my first diesel and I would like it to last me a very long time as most people would.

Thanks in advance.
 

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mo balls than $cents$
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Id wait till 30k on diff and transfilter.i had my customers doin a drain fill on allison at 30k, pull drain plug new spinon with some dextron 6 fluid
 

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Nice truck man I have a built lmm, u can go much longer on the diffs are full syn :) like 50,000. For trans I say around 30,000 and transfer case. And this is over kill in my eyes. And this is what I do for a living.
Skydog
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Nice truck man I have a built lmm, u can go much longer on the diffs are full syn :) like 50,000. For trans I say around 30,000 and transfer case. And this is over kill in my eyes. And this is what I do for a living.
Skydog
The diffs come full syn from the factory right? I've been reading that people will drain them and refill after only 500 miles which seems like a waste of time and money to me.
 

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:54:
The diffs come full syn from the factory right? I've been reading that people will drain them and refill after only 500 miles which seems like a waste of time and money to me.
Yes huge waste of money! Trucks have very good difs in them!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
:54:
The diffs come full syn from the factory right? I've been reading that people will drain them and refill after only 500 miles which seems like a waste of time and money to me.
Yes huge waste of money! Trucks have very good difs in them!!!!!
Should have said after the first 500 they drain and fill and them go like every 25k but that still seems like a waste haha. Thanks man
 

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10 4 yea huge waste the difs are great!!! For sure not a problem area, these trucks came a long way from 03 better every year. You have a very very soild truck enjoy!! :) :)
 

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One thing i can tell you do not raise front end by the torsion bars!! If you want it higher get a lift kit!!:thumb:
 

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One thing i can tell you do not raise front end by the torsion bars!! If you want it higher get a lift kit!!:thumb:
What about using different keys? It'll stay stock for awhile though. This was my old truck and the stock is a nice change of pace haha.
 

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No buddy kills the front end, the geometry of the axles and tie rods get killed. Dont do it.... Need a kit with spindles to keep axles and tie rods flat. Not going up like a roof top lol
 

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I put a 4" kit on mine love it looks great and the ride and how shes pulls is as good as stock or better!! :) :)
 

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No buddy kills the front end, the geometry of the axles and tie rods get killed. Dont do it.... Need a kit with spindles to keep axles and tie rods flat. Not going up like a roof top lol
I put a 4" kit on mine love it looks great and the ride and how shes pulls is as good as stock or better!! :) :)

10-4. Thanks for the info. The though crosses through my mind to try and lower it and do something different but i don't think i could bring myself to ever do that:no: haha. Thanks again.:))THumbsUp
 

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Block the egr, or better yet put an efi live mild tune on it and change the egr opening rpm to 4500!
motor will not see that rpm, so it won't ever open, and won't set a code either! You should see
the crud & sludge buildup the egr puts in the intake ports......
 

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Block the egr, or better yet put an efi live mild tune on it and change the egr opening rpm to 4500!
motor will not see that rpm, so it won't ever open, and won't set a code either! You should see
the crud & sludge buildup the egr puts in the intake ports......
I've been looking into that. Only thing I'm worried about is the warranty and good ole mexifornia emissions laws. Will it still be good as far as that bullshit goes? New to diesels and don't want to get popped on warranty and emissions bullshit.
 

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I only run TORCO SGO in the diff (I only have one), as it is just plain indestructible. You likely would not ever have to change it again.

TRANSYND (Allison synthetic) for the trans. Amsoil is a close second, very similar recipe.

I started with Mobil-1 (Delvac-1) 5w40 at 2000 miles but it's hard as hell to get locally. So, I switched to Rotella T6 5w40 synthetic. Change it every 10,000, with a filter change at 5,000. This gets me to about 20-25% on the DIC readout. Blackstone Labs usually says I could run it 4-5,000 more at that stage, so it's plenty safe.

I would only run TORCO replacement for the transfer case. Even when not in 4wd, things are REAL BUSY in there and it's a link for everything in the drivetrain. So, I would treat it REAL well. If it calls for ATF, I would run TORCO multi-vis ATF or their RTF. The RTF is the only fluid I'll put in my outdrive. RTF is a replacement for anything from 30w engine oil (where recommended in a trans or transfer) to 75w90. So, you free up some HP and still provide plenty of safety.

Torco High Performance Racing Oils and advanced Lubricants
 

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I've been looking into that. Only thing I'm worried about is the warranty and good ole mexifornia emissions laws. Will it still be good as far as that bullshit goes? New to diesels and don't want to get popped on warranty and emissions bullshit.
Nobody knows about it when you're going down the road.

I pulled my stock exhaust off at 2000 miles and put a downpipe-back MBRP setup (2006-back). +2mpg across the board. For instance, I was 10mpg pulling the boat at 70-72mph. Now 12.0-12.5ish. Sometimes 13.

Every two years, I spend 45 minutes swapping the stock exh back on. Go get it smogged. Then 45 minutes to swap back

I use a Quadzilla tuner to turn off the exhaust switching /codes and it automatically turns off the EGR. Piece of cake.
 

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To answer the question about the diff fluid: I'd wait til you hit 50k miles. At that time I put a larger cover on too and refilled the rear end with Lucas.

What about using different keys? It'll stay stock for awhile though. This was my old truck and the stock is a nice change of pace haha.

To lift (level) a 2500HD, order a set of 1500 torsion keys and don't crank the hell out of them. If you buy them from Cognito, CST or anyone else all you're getting are factory 1500 keys. You might need longer shocks. Don't tab them!

Now if you crank the keys up too much, you're truck will ride down the highway like a Soviet tank and you'll likely break a ball joint. You'll need new upper control arms if you want more clearance, but at that point you may as well spindle it. If you go spindle, I'd recommend a 2-3" blocks in the rear.


I've been looking into that. Only thing I'm worried about is the warranty and good ole mexifornia emissions laws. Will it still be good as far as that bullshit goes? New to diesels and don't want to get popped on warranty and emissions bullshit.
Just keep your stock exhaust so you can smog it. Unless you have a friend in the smog biz. That makes it much easier. ;) I was pulled over once for rolling coal and told the CHP something was wrong with my truck and I was taking it in the next day. He let me go.

The difference you will notice in your truck makes tuning it 100% worth it. When you tune it, you'll start with exhaust and a tuner. Then you'll need gauges, egr blocker, pcv re-route and a few other things. These aren't too expensive and are pretty simple to do on your own.

While kinda on the subject of maintenance. Change your external Allison 1000 filter every oil change. Then change the fluid at every 30k miles. I didn't change the internal filter til I hit 90k. When I dropped my pan there were no metal shavings which I expected as the truck was lifted since day one and I towed a lot with it.

I have a maintenance schedule someone put together on the dieselplace.com that I printed out I can send you if you'd like.
 
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