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Retired Air Force
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940 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just finished rebuilding engine and carbs for E85 and having trouble starting it. It will run for about 10 seconds then shuts off? Hard to check timing like that but the distributer is set as it was before. Hope to have it running for 1 Jan at CFW. The first time I turned the key on fuel overflowed in carb fuel bowls and flodded the engine. I am going to change the oil tomorrow. Should of changed it right away but attemted to start it a few times after I got the float levels right..
 

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Premium Member
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3,360 Posts
Need more info. Who did the carb mods, what was done? What type of ign., mag, MSD? What cam, solid, hydraulic?
 

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Red Blooded American
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15,853 Posts
Let's use the process of elimination here since the information is minimal. If it runs for 10 seconds, we can rule out ignition (at lease for ten seconds) but something is going away. Ignition seldom works inadvertently or momentarily although fuel can starve in just about 10 seconds. Let's ask a few questions:
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge on this?
If so, is it maintaining the pressure?
If so, where are the bowl floats set now?
If not, start with your fuel flow to the pump then work from there toward the carburetors.
You should be able to check basic timing during the ten seconds it runs to get things close.

I'm guessing it's fuel delivery since ignition is more matter of fact.
 

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AKA Blownjet 468
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1,205 Posts
did you upgrade your fuel delivery system, or running the same thing you ran w/gas?
 

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"runs then shuts off"
More here. Shuts off like ignition dead? Or shuts off like out of fuel?
Or what?
Pull a plug wire and see if "shuts off" coincides with spark or not.
Shuts off like oil pressure builds, goes lean and shuts off?
Wags
 

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Premium Member
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25,975 Posts
really need to know what your running for an ignition. If it is the fuel delivery, it must be really weak to not be able to keep up with it in the driveway for 10 seconds. I can run our blower deal longer than that with the fuel shut off. Alot longer! I could fuel that thing in the driveway with a 5 gal can sitting on a 6 ft ladder and gravity feed.
I assume its a electric pump because you say it flooded the first time you turned the key on. is it still running when the motor stops?
Can you start it right back up, or is hard to restart?



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Retired Air Force
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940 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
After tinkering with the carbs and the timing I think I got it only the flexplate broke a few teeth and the starter gear is toast. Got the parts on order but will not be ready for CFW this weekend. :mad: We will still go out there though.
 

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Sorry to hear about the mishap Tim
Hope to see you and Rhonda out there tommorrow
 

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The only time Iveseen a chevy eat a flex plate and a starter gear was when the wrong spark plugs were installed. Piston dome was banging the plug.
 

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Retired Air Force
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940 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
It must of happened when the carb was initially dumping fuel over two of the bowls. I should have cought it sooner and removed the plugs to flush it out.
 

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Premium Member
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Really would like to know what was done to the carbs and by whom.
 

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No Sandbar To Far
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3,276 Posts

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Retired Air Force
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940 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Really would like to know what was done to the carbs and by whom.
I rebuit the carbs with a kit. I adjusted the needle valves so the center of the floats would hit the center of the sight glass when held upside down. I guess I should have adjusted them more on the low side for initial start up. I also should have purged the fuel line before sending fuel to the carbs as I changed to new fuel lines and it probably had some dirt in there causing the needle valves to leak. Nobodies fault but my own.
 

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Premium Member
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I rebuit the carbs with a kit. I adjusted the needle valves so the center of the floats would hit the center of the sight glass when held upside down. I guess I should have adjusted them more on the low side for initial start up. I also should have purged the fuel line before sending fuel to the carbs as I changed to new fuel lines and it probably had some dirt in there causing the needle valves to leak. Nobodies fault but my own.
As I suspected! Nobody, I repeat Nobody, sells a kit to convert carbs to E-85 use. They sell U a bunch of shit with little or no info and except it to work! I sent my carbs to Mark Sullens, paid the price, bolted them on, adjusted the idle and drove the shit out of it!. Google Mark Sullens, go to his website, read all about what needs to be done and start over! For an example, the carbs he did for me worked great out of the box, rebuilt motor and changed from hydraulic roller to solid roller cam, big diff., little or no vacume at idle, went down 2 sizes on idle air bleeds, all the diff. in the world.
 

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I hate to disagree about no one selling a kit that works. I purchased two quickfuel kits and converted both dominators on a blown 540 to e85.

Yes, I have increased jet sizes and played a little with air-bleeds, but it ran OK with just the conversion kit. It wasn't perfect, but no one will sell you any carburetor that has been modified and promise it will work out of the box.

e85 is still somewhat of an experiment for anyone making the change. I personally think it is a good change, but it is going to take some experimenting. For me it makes a noticeable increase in power over AV gas and much cheaper. It is much cheaper to run than race gas of any kind.

Even though I have only played with it for a short length of time, my best run is 127 mph and only 9.5 lb. of boost with a 5% under-driven blower. This is primarily a lake boat, but there is easily more power and speed available.

It may not be perfect yet, but I am having fun.
 
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