[vdrivedenis]

Here is the new stainless steel one piece investment cast prop to replace the steel one that chucked a piece at CFW. As always, you can never just do one thing. The taper between the two is very different (the old taper was real deep), so I will have to shorten the shaft about 3/8" to bring the new prop back closer to the strut. The old one is 11 1/8" X 16" and the new one is 11 1/4" X 16". There is a lot of difference in the blade configuration, and there is quite a difference (cup) in the trailing edge of the new one. I hate these type of changes-probably will require a gear change and a readjustment in driving (again). Stab and steer time to see what happens. bulb
Denis

 

[HighVoltage329]

Who makes that stainless prop? What does one cost? Interested in how it will perform.

 

[fast76rogers]

nice prop.a new prop is on my list of things to do.mine has been on since 74 i think.and has never been checked.pm me a price if you would.like to know what to expect.
fast76rogers

 

[vdrivedenis]

$$$

Who makes that stainless prop? What does one cost? Interested in how it will perform.

Frank at Motorsports LTD in Orange Co., California. It cost $750.00. I am having a shoulder operation in August, so I need to get a chase boat asap and get this tried out. I will report on it as soon as I run it.
Denis

 

[Rexone]

That's the thing about props. You can even have 10 that are supposedly all the same and they'll all be a little different.

 

[VDRIVERACING]

Frank at Motorsports LTD in Orange Co., California. It cost $750.00. I am having a shoulder operation in August, so I need to get a chase boat asap and get this tried out. I will report on it as soon as I run it.
Denis

have a Ph# ? Didn't come in google search

 

[vdrivedenis]

Number

have a Ph# ? Didn't come in google search

I have it in the shop. If I don't hit you back with it tomorrow, PM me to give me a reminder.
Denis

 

[vdrivedenis]

Contact information

have a Ph# ? Didn't come in google search

Frank
(714) 403-0391
[email protected] (long enough for you??)

 

[VDRIVERACING]

Got it... Thanks!

 

[Sherpa]

I'd be more likely to rebore that taper in the prop than shorten the shaft....
unless you thought that enlarging the taper-bore would weaken the prop...

--Sherpa

 

[SS 201]

I have a dozen props for my boats and not one taper is the same. Plays havovic trying to keep them so they can be removed by a puller.

 

[vdrivedenis]

Taper

I'd be more likely to rebore that taper in the prop than shorten the shaft....
unless you thought that enlarging the taper-bore would weaken the prop...

--Sherpa

The original 1 1/8" prop slid in past the shoulder on the shaft. It was necessary to build a sleeve that when over that shoulder in order to tighten the prop. This prop stops about 1/8" short of the shoulder, and is going to tighten up about where it should. I originally thought that the new shaft was wrong, but it is obvious now that the original prop taper was over bored. I believe that I took a Royal Hosing on the last prop, as I found out that I did NOT get what I paid for. I won't go into that on a public forum, but I got screwed, and that damn thing broke to boot. The biggest difference that I can see between the prop manufactures is that some of them have the ears forward of the end of the barrel, and some of them are flush with the end of the barrel. I run my props as tight as I can to the strut, so the barrel/ear thing really comes into play when I set one up. Right now my back is killing me, so crawling under there and leaning over the boat to work on it isn't very appealing. All of this is less concerning than trying something new. I tag about 100 in 3 seconds and 127 in 4. Not much time to figure out the new combination if it goes sour. What the hell, I've lived this long!
Denis

 

[Jetboatguru]

Looks like a Hill Propeller.

 

[schiada96]

Looks like a Hill Propeller.

Yep a casting! I don't know I'd run it too fast.

 

[vdrivedenis]

Taking the time to do it right

Dragged my laze butt out of bed, took a couple of aspring, put on my back brace, and said let's get this done. Pulled the shaft and measured up the difference in the barrel nesting (1/2"), cut that much off and away we went:
Photo 1 Lenghtening the keyway 1/2"
Photo 2 Shows a partial lap (at about 4 laps with coarse compound)
Photo 3 Shows at lap #8 (last two laps with fine compound)
Photo 4 Shows prop nested with new key, using .003" paper pull to check key clearance
Pain in the butt to do it this way, but at least I know that it is right!devil
Denis

 

[vdrivedenis]

Casting vrs. three piece weldment

Yep a casting! I don't know I'd run it too fast.

Do you think that I would do better or worse then this premium 3 piece weldment that we ran last year on the Hondo, or the one off of the Cole that was in the first post. Only time will tell how the casting do overall. The prop I want is a billet CNC unit that is 3K, and believe me that isn't going to happen any time soon!!
Denis

 

[J Shelfo]

Denis, Every prop manufacturer has had props break. The billets, the welded, the castings all break. The trick is to find the prop that works for you, and replace it before it breaks. Too many people will run them until they break, alot like a set of tires, run em until its time to put the spare on. Racing tires and racing props are expensive, and wear out fast. Middle of the road props, are what they are, but may last a little longer. You have an air pump on that boat, just turn it up! Joe.

 

[78CoLeBBF]

Do you think that I would do better or worse then this premium 3 piece weldment that we ran last year on the Hondo, or the one off of the Cole that was in the first post. Only time will tell how the casting do overall. The prop I want is a billet CNC unit that is 3K, and believe me that isn't going to happen any time soon!!
Denis

that must be a circle boat prop used for turning

 

[Marko]

I'd really like to read up on lapping a prop, I've heard a little about it but would like to hear about the right way to do it and the right material to use. Maybe someone in the know could start a thread with pics if there is enough of us interested. Thanks

 

[vdrivedenis]

Truth

Denis, Every prop manufacturer has had props break. The billets, the welded, the castings all break. The trick is to find the prop that works for you, and replace it before it breaks. Too many people will run them until they break, alot like a set of tires, run em until its time to put the spare on. Racing tires and racing props are expensive, and wear out fast. Middle of the road props, are what they are, but may last a little longer. You have an air pump on that boat, just turn it up! Joe.

Lot of truth to that one. The prop that broke ran one season + a few hits. I will bring it by your shop next time I am in the area-there are some interesting points about it. I bought Steve Sharps 871 a year and a half ago. We built the new motor with 1/2 (10.5:1 instead of 10:1) point higher static compression, and we are hitting it with an additional 3 pounds of boost over the 402, which we maxed the 671 at 17psi. We now show 20spi at the same overdrive (15%). Had to put a Meziere starter on it to get it to spin. We also went to a hump center BDS (had a Crager before) intake, ported it, shaft mounted rockers, and a few other nickle dime items. First pass, severly rich was only 129 at 8.1, but it sure let me know what it had. As you know, Elsinore got weathered out so we did not have a chance to tune and get the plates set for the additional HP-about 250 more than the 402 showed. I am going to do two toots on it Friday morning before it is put away for the winter. I flew over the lake today to check it out for low spots, as the water has really dropped-a lot of bouys out, and I could see spots that were not marked. I'll post Friday or Saturday about the run results-hopefully the GPS will read this time.
Thanks for the input,
Denis