The OEM 460 crankshafts are nodular iron. I have a personal preference for the OEM cranks over the "cast steel" offshore, 3.85" stroke 460 crankshafts. The one thing the offshore stock stroke 460 cranks have over the factory issue 460 cranks is that the aftermarket offshore cast steel 460 cranks are brand new while the factory issue ones are decades old. All that really means to me is that I must hand-pick my factory crank for the application and get it fully checked out and properly prepped. Thus far, zero crankshaft breakage. I know a guy that runs his cast OEM crank to 9500 rpm and his tach records wheel hop at 10,300. Needless to say a tremendous amount of prep work went into his crankshafts and he is the exception to the rule.
Offset stroked OEM cranks have been known to support in excess of 1000 hp. Non-stroked OEM cranks to support over 1500, although that is a highly risky and very inadvisable recommendation (if you can afford 1500+ hp, you can certainly afford the proper components for the job). My long-winded point (and answer to your question) is that 850 hp, generally speaking, ain't no thang if you know what you are doing...not excessive for the block and not for the crank. On the other hand, TUNE is what will allow the engine to live and LACK OF TUNE is what will destroy such an engine program in the blink of an eye.
I would say that in 95% of the build cases 850 hp 2-bolt block cast crank is the limit for the masses in 460 combos.
Which brings me to N20. I have seen more melted pistons, signs of cap walk, broken rods, windowed blocks, etc, with nitrous oxide than any other power adder, hands down. 2-bolt block and cast crank to 850hp, eh? Well....okay. Getting there with N20? It will be all about your tune.
LO
