Performance Boats Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,034 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am starting to gather stuff for the old Donzi. Putting together a 383.
So, I drive this boat, and drink. It is a fun boat. NOT a race boat. The 383 will be a "mild" piece.
At most we can run 15 to 20 miles. Usually cruise about 35 mph. This is 3000 to 3500 rpm ish. We all know oil temp heads up under the constand load, but how much?
I am all about KISS. Less is more. Any of you guys have experience running something like this? Or the real question... do I need an oil cooler?
I don't have a oil temp gauge on it, and it is getting ripped apart, so I don't know how hot the oil did get. I know in the old jet boat it would run up to 230... of course that was a blown gas BBC.
Wags

Oh, the plan is to put on a simple v-drive pan. Steel if I can find one, or alum if I can't. 8qts ish probably.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
25,975 Posts
Wags, it is really dependant on the water temp you run the motor at. You have to remember, virtually every piece of cast iron in the motor that the oil touches, is colder than the oil. Across the heads, down the valley, everywhere under the cylinders, etc. so the colder those surfaces are, the cooler the oil will run. An open engine compartment runs a little cooler than a closed one. Air over the valve covers and pan, etc. Not much, but it does help.

You can buy temperature tattle tale adhesive strips from McMaster Carr and Grainger you can put on the outside of the pan to get an idea of the temperature. And they're cheap. 10 for 26.00
LINk: Grainger

If your really concerned, run a run a decent synthetic like Mobil 1, and stay away from Brad Penn.



100% free webcam site! | Awesome chicks and it is absolutely free! | Watch free live sex cam - easy as 1-2-3
 

·
Highaboosta
Joined
·
3,431 Posts
After all these years I finally got an electric oil temp gauge.
Their only around $ 25. for a VDO from Summit.
This is early in the season so the water is not up to full temp yet but even down in Georgia a month ago and driving around at 40 mph for 15 minutes straight the oil temp never got above the engine water temp of around 150 degrees and it took a long time to get there. I've got 8 qts in the pan and probably another qt each in the cooler and the filter.

I have an oil cooler with a gate valve feeding it from the main water pressure line off the river rat pump. It's been shut off so far this year.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,034 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the responses. The jet boat oil temp got up there because I thrashed it. I did not put around in it! LOL
Sounds like I would be best served to save the cash (and hassle) on the cooler and just get a nice alum pan. 8 qt should be more than enough.
The 383 will not make anywhere as much heat as a blown gasser.
Thanks
Wags


Why no love for Brad Penn?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
25,975 Posts
Whats wrong with Brad Penn?
Nothing wrong with BradPenn at all. Would have never mentioned it if Wags hadn't been concerned with over heating. You have to keep in mind when running the stuff it is a parrafin based oil. All other oils on the market except BP and Pennzoil Racing GT, and maybe one or two others are "de-parrafined"
BradPenn is ooey gooey stuff and will cling to virtually anything including a teflon pan. But as long as you have it in the pan, turn on the flame and you'll see the problem.
Parrafin is trouble when it comes to temperature extremes. In extreme cold, the parrafin will percipitate out, and does mix back in quite right when re-heated. When exposed to extreme heat, it has a bad habit of turning to a grease like substance, and pretty much sticks itself to everything until you tear the motor apart.
If you even remotely think you have over heated it, it is best to get it out and change it.

But it still probably the very best conventional out there, and probably the number one oil used in the alky classes.



100% free webcam site! | Awesome chicks and it is absolutely free! | Watch free live sex cam - easy as 1-2-3
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
335 Posts
At the risk of starting another oil debate, I would stay away from an oil cooler unless its proven necessary for some specific reason in any boat. Marine engines are built with looser clearances for the main reason that they do not warm up near to what their street counterparts do. Typically, even with an oil temp guage, you can figure 100 degrees over water temp.

That being said, Oil doesn't get to do its best work until warmed up and hot. Don't care what kinda oil, wax based, asphalt based or synthetic. Shouldn't be new to anyone here that 75% of engine wear occurs during startup and warmup. This is why highway miles on cars are preferred over Gramma's Grocery Getter. So cooling already kinda cool oil seems redundant and counter productive to durability and longevity.

Some exceptions are extreme blown engines, and particularly Turbocharged engines that share engine oil. Normally, large capacity pans take care of any oil temp issues that I have seen.

Just my .02

Ray
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,263 Posts
Depends on how much power for how long, how cold/warm the water you boat in is, and what you keep for coolant temp..

That said, take Mercury Marine, basically anything 330hp and above from them gets an oil cooler. Many times, when one modifies that engine or replaces with bigger, they need a larger oil cooler.

I'd do what's suggested above, run the engine and take oil temp readings. If you don't need one, you don't need one. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,034 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I may go with the ignorance is bliss approach.
If I don't put in a temp gauge I can assume all is ok. ROFL It must get pretty warm, though, cause after a few miles the pressure will drop some.
I have run up and down the river with the current engine and it has never burned oil. Now, it is basically a stock 350 mercruiser. I guess that is a good indicator.
I need a cooler for the trans. V-drive should be ok. Or I could pass through the trans, then v-drive, then out. I just want the cooling system to be simple. I hate lines running all over like snakes... you know like an MSD wiring system ROFL! (Haas, that was just for you)
So, the cool thing with this old piece is it has a pickup in the strut for water. (maybe that is common) That goes to cool the trans/ v-drive. Then dumps outboard.
1 pickup for engine cooling, it has a water pump, then a circulating pump. Stock mecruiser stuff. I am eliminating all that crap and using a cam driven water pump. Takes out a bunch of lines, and a bunch of weight.
OK, enough rambling for now.
Back to Red. Engine back together. Will toss it in tomorrow. Need to wash inside Red today.
Wags
 

·
Ain't Right Racin
Joined
·
1,706 Posts
I may go with the ignorance is bliss approach.
If I don't put in a temp gauge I can assume all is ok. ROFL It must get pretty warm, though, cause after a few miles the pressure will drop some.
I have run up and down the river with the current engine and it has never burned oil. Now, it is basically a stock 350 mercruiser. I guess that is a good indicator.
I need a cooler for the trans. V-drive should be ok. Or I could pass through the trans, then v-drive, then out. I just want the cooling system to be simple. I hate lines running all over like snakes... you know like an MSD wiring system ROFL! (Haas, that was just for you)
So, the cool thing with this old piece is it has a pickup in the strut for water. (maybe that is common) That goes to cool the trans/ v-drive. Then dumps outboard.
1 pickup for engine cooling, it has a water pump, then a circulating pump. Stock mecruiser stuff. I am eliminating all that crap and using a cam driven water pump. Takes out a bunch of lines, and a bunch of weight.
OK, enough rambling for now.
Back to Red. Engine back together. Will toss it in tomorrow. Need to wash inside Red today.
Wags
Just run syn. oil. Don't forget to adjust the van's woops polylock's on ol red
What' up wirh Polylocks ???
What about valve adj. nuts ??
It's a long story guys.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top