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The next time I do an oil change on my almost stock BBC I'd like to maybe try a different oil filter. I've been using the Fram PH5 with no issues. However, I have enough room to fit a taller filter like a Fram HP4. The PH5 is 5.170" tall and the HP4 is 5.75" tall. I figure that the taller filter would allow for a little more capacity and that is always welcome since my motor uses a stock truck oil pan. I was comparing the stats on the both filters mentioned above and I found that the PH5 does not have a filter bypass relief valve as where the HP4 uses one. Also, Fram states that the relief valve on the PH5 opens at 8-10psi as to where the relief valve on the HP4 opens at 22psi. I'm a little confused on that last piece of info. Why would Fram say that the PH5 doesn't use a pressure relief valve and then say that it opens at 8-10 psi? I'm figuring that someone on this forum knows enough about oil filters to tell me what it is that I should be running.
 

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Bostick Racing Engines
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To be honest... I'd venture away from the Fram and go with a Wix or Napa Gold... price is on par with the Fram and the quality of the construction is much better. If you have the room, you could run the 2qt filter... but I forget what the number is right at the moment.




EDIT: It's 1794 I believe for the 2qt Napa Gold... old age... it's a bitch!:)sphss
 

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The Wix racing filter does not have the by pass either :D Wix all the way !!!! JMO :)hand
 

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If you have enough room you may want to try a NAPA GOLD 1794, they are the tall truck filter, some where around 8.25" tall and hold a quart and a half of oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanx for the info so far. However, I have 2 questions. 1) Why do I not want to run a filter with a bypass valve? 2) What is wrong with the Fram brand? Honestly, I've run Fram in all my vehicle with no issues. Also, I've been selling about 120-130 Fram filters a month for about 5 years now with zero comebacks or complaints from my customers.
 

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Thanx for the info so far. However, I have 2 questions. 1) Why do I not want to run a filter with a bypass valve? 2) What is wrong with the Fram brand? Honestly, I've run Fram in all my vehicle with no issues. Also, I've been selling about 120-130 Fram filters a month for about 5 years now with zero comebacks or complaints from my customers.
You just opened a can of worms................................


there must be 6 threads about that ( Fram filters) on here from some time back.

this reminds me, I need to get my Jomar or Moroso filters ordered. I've heard good things about the Wix and Napa Gold filters though.

S CP
 

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Bostick Racing Engines
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Thanx for the info so far. However, I have 2 questions. 1) Why do I not want to run a filter with a bypass valve? 2) What is wrong with the Fram brand? Honestly, I've run Fram in all my vehicle with no issues. Also, I've been selling about 120-130 Fram filters a month for about 5 years now with zero comebacks or complaints from my customers.

The easiest way to explain the difference is either saw a Fram open then saw open a Wix/Napa Gold and see for yourself.... or... go to a Napa store and take a look at their oil filter display. The Fram is like a tin can full of toilet paper compared to the Wix/Napa Gold as far as construction/materials/number of pleats/etc...

I know people run Fram and "never have an issue"... hell, I bet Jiffy Lube sells the piss out of Ching Chang Wong brand filters and seldom have "issues" or complaints from customers. As for Frams, I know of people having them burst apart, collapse internally, plug themselves,etc... etc... but not having "an issue" is not the same thing as buying a quality part. So I mean you'll get anicdotial evidence from each and every side... but bang for the buck the Wix/Napa Gold is a damn good filter... just seeing the construction of one vs the other it is evident. IMO


BTW... the point of the bypass is so that in the event of a filter plugging... and/or in the event it is not able to flow an adiquate amount of oil (cold oil, etc..) it will still allow oil to pass....but allow the engine to warm up, don't run 80wt oil, change your oil and don't try to go 3 years or 30k on it and you'll be fine. Also... on a chevrolet the filter adaptor has a bypass built in... many hot rod guys sometimes either plug it or buy aftermarket billet ones that do not have a bypass.
 

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Bostick Racing Engines
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You just opened a can of worms................................


there must be 6 threads about that ( Fram filters) on here from some time back.

this reminds me, I need to get my Jomar or Moroso filters ordered. I've heard good things about the Wix and Napa Gold filters though.

S CP
Why would you do that? You don't need filters if you don't run the boat!:D
 

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Why would you do that? You don't need filters if you don't run the boat!:D

And with friends like you....................................... ;)

S CP :)hand
 

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I've had 2 Fram oil filters fail. Thats enough for me. Switched to Baldwin.
 

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Thanx for the info so far. However, I have 2 questions. 1) Why do I not want to run a filter with a bypass valve? 2) What is wrong with the Fram brand? Honestly, I've run Fram in all my vehicle with no issues. Also, I've been selling about 120-130 Fram filters a month for about 5 years now with zero comebacks or complaints from my customers.
Might be a god idea to avoid the TG5 series if you run a plugged filter adapter bypass...it seems to occasionally cause a problem
 

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Thanx for the info so far. However, I have 2 questions. 1) Why do I not want to run a filter with a bypass valve? 2) What is wrong with the Fram brand? Honestly, I've run Fram in all my vehicle with no issues. Also, I've been selling about 120-130 Fram filters a month for about 5 years now with zero comebacks or complaints from my customers.
I have been in the same boat, peddling across the counter and in a standard application the Fram,Wix Baldwin, Or any other brand will handle the situation. I think alot of the feed-back is you have moved to an extreme situation and if shlitz happens everybody relies on the filter to keep the related damage down to a minimum. I could be wrong (again) . But for what it's worth the FRAM PH 373 is the deep filter for the tall block BBC used in the industrial applications. Let's hope you never need to rely on it to go above and beyond. M
 

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NAPA Gold is a Wix. Or run an Oberg. On the left of the pic. The System 1 is the fuel filter.

Hose Maze2.JPG
 

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Ever heard of a Carillo rod failing? They're the best--maybe--and have seen them mutilate an engine.

Used Fram forever and never had a failure due to their construction. Are there better materials(brands)? Bound to be... Always are.

Perhaps another question is what will work for your applications/conditions. I have listened to the thinkers, applied my own brand of logic, been wrong and retraced my steps, blah blah blah. This debate is like what is a good sunrise.
 

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Seems like the issue has to do with the ability to flow cold/thick oil. Even a wally world filter will function with the stock bypass and 30wt.
The problem begins with plugging the factory bypass....I guess that would be so that nothing but filtered oil gets pumped through the motor?....
Doesn't that also have the potential to limit oil flow/pressure if the filter does not have an internal bypass?
And how would someone determine at what temp. the oil is capable of 100% flow with no loss of pressure?
10 qts of oil takes a while to build heat if you can't put a load on it and it seems like i was taught long ago that extended warm up time causes excessive wear and given the many different viscosity s of oil available oil temp could be anywhere from 120*-160*. Add in every filter has a different flow restriction....

It seems like plugging the factory bypass would be more of a race mod. given the options of either having every drop of oil that the motor sees
has made the trip through the filter, even though the filter did not remove any foreign material...but if the motor gets ran hard and the oil is 10* shy of full flow temp 70 [email protected] 7k is now 65 psi....opps..not quite enough oil pressure..a little bearing kiss....now all that oil needs to trip the filter.

As opposed to a bypass so only 50% makes the filter...but motor has full pressure to brngs. and the oil stays clean


I guess if the oil won't flow,
and the filter don't blow
an increase in rpm would make the oil pressure go low,
so you had best go slow
or you be needing a tow
Unless of course, you like to row:p:p

Just honest questions and i know lots of 'less than full race' motors run
a plugged bypass because i see them every day. I have also seen a couple that had oil pressure issues ie engine rpm increase and oil pressure decreases..
like this one....27psi backwards in 700 rpm @ 120*




Is that caused by low oil temp?
thanx
mike
 

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I did a thread within the last year or 2 where I cut apart an HP4 and a Baldwin race filter. Measurements, etc. Someone can dig it up.
Wags
 

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1) If you are using a "stock type" filter you deserve what you get. (ph5, ph13, etc) They aren't designed for 50wt, cold oil, 4500 rpm as soon as engine started, etc.

So, lets start with "race" or purpose filters.
HP4, Wix, Baldwin, all ok. Personally I want a bypass in my filter. Dirty oil is much better than no oil. Also, this will be necessary when cold 50 wt is trying to flow.
If you have the stock type bypass you could eliminate the filter bypass. IMO a good adapter and a filter with a bypass is better.

Carry on.
Wags (little slow this morning)
 

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Oh, and IMO I am no fan of a system 1 or an oberg. They allow to much crap through them. I ran a system 1 season. Bearings showed stuff going through. Just my opinion. Many run em. Many aren't as picky as me on bearings.
Wags
 
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