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I'm tired of screwing with the 10quart Milodon oil pan I been using on my BBF. It's done cost me one motor. I added 3 more quarts to it at the end of last season and the oil pressure only dropped to 55psi instead of 40 when at wot and a friend of mine said a total of 14quarts would fix it but that's just too much damn oil!

My question is how much oil on hand is enough? I'm looking at the 8quart canton pan that my friend switched to that was having the same issue and it fixed his. Is 8quarts enough oil so the oil won't get to hot?
 

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the ford milodon pan is garbage. i had one and pressure drop to 20psi at wot. switched to an 10qt armondo's pan problem solved. i have heard good things about the b&b stefs pans rex sells.
 

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I'm currently running a kickout front sump pan and have a Dooley 10qt that will likely go in before this summer. If I hadn't got such a good deal on it, I would have probably bought an Armando's because everyone I know that has one, raves about them. As to quantity of oil, best answer will come from Paul at High Flow Dynamics aka LakesOnly.
 

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What makes the Milodon so shitty? What makes the armondos so much better?

Shape? pickup? trapdoors? etc?

A oil pan is just a box that holds oil, so whats the hot ticket to making it work best?
 

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What makes the Milodon so shitty? What makes the armondos so much better?

Shape? pickup? trapdoors? etc?

A oil pan is just a box that holds oil, so whats the hot ticket to making it work best?
Ohhhhh boy, here we go :yes:
Not to worry Hammer, when thats the comment, you pretty much know not to even bother trying.

Wonder if ole ChopShop ever tried sitting sitting passenger in his boat with a oil pan with X qrts in on his lap, and going flat out across the water, trying to keep the oil on the bottom of the pan. Maybe throw in a few sharp turns and a few sudden de-accels just to keep it interesting for him.

I can't even imagine trying to discuss hosepower differences between 2 pans after reading that.



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No, I have a dooley on my boat. I have a Milodon sitting here. I also have a very complicated looking side winged, huge tons of trap doors kinda pan too with a AN hose from the sump to the pump. Just wondered what makes them all tick.

I also realize that these are made from tin and any toofless muffler jockey is about qualified to weld tin. SO I ask what the benifits of different pans are.

If I dont have one, I have the ability to make one in less than two hours.

This one cost $40 ($20 each at PickNpull) and about 45 minutes. Its just on my buddies stocker.
 

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I'm tired of screwing with the 10quart Milodon oil pan I been using on my BBF. It's done cost me one motor. I added 3 more quarts to it at the end of last season and the oil pressure only dropped to 55psi instead of 40 when at wot and a friend of mine said a total of 14quarts would fix it but that's just too much damn oil!

My question is how much oil on hand is enough? I'm looking at the 8quart canton pan that my friend switched to that was having the same issue and it fixed his. Is 8quarts enough oil so the oil won't get to hot?
Just a couple comments.

Generally speaking you must keep unaerated oil around the oil pickup at all times. Pans use a combination of design components to make that happen including pickup design, windage tray design, internal baffling, kickout, and trap door design and placement. All these things are critical in proper oil control.

For example, if you increase the oil level to a point where it is above the windage tray, it is counterproductive because it aerates the oil, thus lowering the oil pressure and introducing additional heat from friction and cavitation and hp loss from the oil contacting the rotating assy. Too much oil is not a fix, it is a detriment. In more extreme cases it can foam the oil so bad you lose oil pressure and damage the engine.

Also, more oil does not make oil appreciably cooler whether that oil is in the form of a larger pan or large oil filter. That is an old wives tale. It may take it slightly longer to get to operating temp but it doesn't lower that operating temp once reached. The oil temp on a 10 qt vs 12 qt vs 14 qt will be essentially the same all other things remaining equal.

Novels could be written on the finer points of oil pan design, but in general you will not get the same performance out of an oil pan that costs 3-400 vs a pan that costs 6-900 dollars. An oil pan is much more than just a box. Well at least the better pans are. You are paying for these finer design features and workmanship, not the weight of the steel.
 

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Not to worry Hammer, when thats the comment, you pretty much know not to even bother trying.

Wonder if ole ChopShop ever tried sitting sitting passenger in his boat with a oil pan with X qrts in on his lap, and going flat out across the water, trying to keep the oil on the bottom of the pan. Maybe throw in a few sharp turns and a few sudden de-accels just to keep it interesting for him.

I can't even imagine trying to discuss hosepower differences between 2 pans after reading that.
Could you turn the bullshit off for once and just answer the question?

I know one hting we have in common. We are both cheap. Theres no need for exotic materials or expensive things in an oil pan. I have no reasont o ignore advice pertaining to tin.

Unless you tell me I need a one off pan made of blingtanium.

Ive read alot here and there on PB about different pans and different dry and wet sumps and vacuum pumps etc. But its all spread out and none really touch on pan design.

My main interstes are placements of trap doors. Windage trays and heights. Crank/oil scrapers and any other items inside an oil pan.


?????
 

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Just a couple comments.

Generally speaking you must keep unaerated oil around the oil pickup at all times. Pans use a combination of design components to make that happen including pickup design, windage tray design, internal baffling, kickout, and trap door design and placement. All these things are critical in proper oil control.

For example, if you increase the oil level to a point where it is above the windage tray, it is counterproductive because it aerates the oil, thus lowering the oil pressure and introducing additional heat from friction and cavitation and hp loss from the oil contacting the rotating assy. Too much oil is not a fix, it is a detriment. In more extreme cases it can foam the oil so bad you lose oil pressure and damage the engine.

Also, more oil does not make oil appreciably cooler whether that oil is in the form of a larger pan or large oil filter. That is an old wives tale. It may take it slightly longer to get to operating temp but it doesn't lower that operating temp once reached. The oil temp on a 10 qt vs 12 qt vs 14 qt will be essentially the same all other things remaining equal.

Novels could be written on the finer points of oil pan design, but in general you will not get the same performance out of an oil pan that costs 3-400 vs a pan that costs 6-900 dollars. An oil pan is much more than just a box. Well at least the better pans are. You are paying for these finer design features and workmanship, not the weight of the steel.

:))THumbsUp
 

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Touching briefly on oil temp also. Most people I've talked to are more worried about oil temp (being too hot) than they should be. If anything worry should be directed about it being too cold. Today's oils are designed to run hot. People are way too quick to employ oil coolers without checking the oil temp with a gauge so they have a baseline. This is a big error imo. Unless your oil temp is exceeding 250, it is not too hot imo. Oil running under the boiling point of water is a problem. Ideal is in the 220-240 range. Oil is happy in that range and it gets rid of any moisture that might exist due to condensation. Now on the subject of coolers (I realize this is straying from oil pan but is related) a larger size cooler will obviously affect oil temperature (lowering). That is about the only area where more oil will affect temp, and its not a function of the oil volume but the cooler contact area with the oil. Generally speaking (and every app is different), unless you are running high load for long distances its likely you really don't need a cooler and also running one may be counterproductive by making oil temp too low.
 

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I'm tired of screwing with the 10quart Milodon oil pan I been using on my BBF. It's done cost me one motor. I added 3 more quarts to it at the end of last season and the oil pressure only dropped to 55psi instead of 40 when at wot and a friend of mine said a total of 14quarts would fix it but that's just too much damn oil!

My question is how much oil on hand is enough? I'm looking at the 8quart canton pan that my friend switched to that was having the same issue and it fixed his. Is 8quarts enough oil so the oil won't get to hot?
Purchase an Armando's 10-quart jet boat oil pan with a pickup for an M84DHV oil pump and be done with it. Remember to check pan-to-pickup clearance and adjust if necessary.



Click HERE to be taken to Armando's Oil Pans.

LO
 

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Purchase an Armando's 10-quart jet boat oil pan with a pickup for an M84DHV oil pump and be done with it. Remember to check pan-to-pickup clearance and adjust if necessary.
This is God's Word! People asking the questions asked here have no business trying to build an oil pan on their own. It's just a little more complicated than that.

Duane HTP
 

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Purchase an Armando's 10-quart jet boat oil pan with a pickup for an M84DHV oil pump and be done with it. Remember to check pan-to-pickup clearance and adjust if necessary.



Click HERE to be taken to Armando's Oil Pans.

LO
Question...can 10 qts actually be run in the above pan or, will it have to be lowered to maybe 8?
 

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Novels could be written on the finer points of oil pan design, but in general you will not get the same performance out of an oil pan that costs 3-400 vs a pan that costs 6-900 dollars. An oil pan is much more than just a box. Well at least the better pans are. You are paying for these finer design features and workmanship, not the weight of the steel.
This is God's Word! People asking the questions asked here have no business trying to build an oil pan on their own. It's just a little more complicated than that.

Duane HTP
Truer words were never posted.
Could you turn the bullshit off for once and just answer the question?

I know one hting we have in common. We are both cheap. Theres no need for exotic materials or expensive things in an oil pan. I have no reasont o ignore advice pertaining to tin.
My main interstes are placements of trap doors. Windage trays and heights. Crank/oil scrapers and any other items inside an oil pan.
?????
You want advice concerning oil pans. Read Rex's posts, TWICE SLOWLY, pay close atterntion to the part that I hi-lighted and you MIGHT understand why I posted what I did. Then read DuaneHTP's 3 times, even slower, until they both sink in.
I have access to a fully equipped sheetmetal shop with every imagable metal forming tool you can think of, and probably have a better idea of what makes a good oil pan than you, or you wouldn't be asking these questions. (read DuaneHTP's post AGAIN!) and I make NO ATTEMPT to build my own pans. Could I duplicate one. EASILY. But its just not worth it. If you are determined to build your own pan, get ahold of a pan KNOWN to work and duplicate it. GOOD LUCK!!!


Just a heads up, this is not a pan KNOWN to work. Its a blown motor looking for a place to happen.

As for my original post on this thread, you have shown over and over to dismiss sound advice from more than just me. You seem to ask questions that you have already made your mind up on. Why bother?



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Truer words were never posted.


You want advice concerning oil pans. Read Rex's posts, TWICE SLOWLY, pay close atterntion to the part that I hi-lighted and you MIGHT understand why I posted what I did. Then read DuaneHTP's 3 times, even slower, until they both sink in.
I have access to a fully equipped sheetmetal shop with every imagable metal forming tool you can think of, and probably have a better idea of what makes a good oil pan than you, or you wouldn't be asking these questions. (read DuaneHTP's post AGAIN!) and I make NO ATTEMPT to build my own pans. Could I duplicate one. EASILY. But its just not worth it. If you are determined to build your own pan, get ahold of a pan KNOWN to work and duplicate it. GOOD LUCK!!!


Just a heads up, this is not a pan KNOWN to work. Its a blown motor looking for a place to happen.

As for my original post on this thread, you have shown over and over to dismiss sound advice from more than just me. You seem to ask questions that you have already made your mind up on. Why bother?
I'm think you're wrong GN, by the looks of this pan I think the BLOWN motor may have already happned, maybe more than once.:shock:
 

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Truer words were never posted.


You want advice concerning oil pans. Read Rex's posts, TWICE SLOWLY, pay close atterntion to the part that I hi-lighted and you MIGHT understand why I posted what I did. Then read DuaneHTP's 3 times, even slower, until they both sink in.
I have access to a fully equipped sheetmetal shop with every imagable metal forming tool you can think of, and probably have a better idea of what makes a good oil pan than you, or you wouldn't be asking these questions. (read DuaneHTP's post AGAIN!) and I make NO ATTEMPT to build my own pans. Could I duplicate one. EASILY. But its just not worth it. If you are determined to build your own pan, get ahold of a pan KNOWN to work and duplicate it. GOOD LUCK!!!


Just a heads up, this is not a pan KNOWN to work. Its a blown motor looking for a place to happen.

As for my original post on this thread, you have shown over and over to dismiss sound advice from more than just me. You seem to ask questions that you have already made your mind up on. Why bother?
Are you seriously so fuckin arrogant that it gets in the way of reading comprehension?

That pan I made for a buddy that has a STOCK 454. Im sure its way worse than the STOCK car pan he was running. Im sure the added capacity is going to blow it up.


This is not what I would build for my own engine that is hopped up a bit.

This is what I would build a FRIEND for FREE.

You sure are one bitter SOB and if married, you must have a PATIENT wife.
 
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