Performance Boats Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
25,975 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Shaun has been PMing me with an oil flow problem to the heads, and I thought this might a good time and place to let some that may not know, that there are good primers and junk primers. If the priming tool you use looks like this
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-62200/
you are never going to get oil to the heads. It has to look like this
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-901010/
You have to have the alumn piece at the bottom to allow the oil to transfer to the passenger side of the block, around the dizzy, and to create a seal for the oil galley at the back of the block. I know we have all seen post about no oil to the heads on these threads before. This is the reason.



100% free webcam site! | Awesome chicks and it is absolutely free! | Watch free live sex cam - easy as 1-2-3
 

·
I'm No Expert
Joined
·
3,139 Posts
I have the good priming tool with the lower plug.

While were talking about priming lets talk about the proper way to prime a engine. I was under the impression until a few days ago that i only needed to put the priming tool in, and run it for a few minutes, while also checking the gauge to make sure i had pressure. I had no idea i should be watching the heads/rockers to make sure i had oil flowing. I also didnt know that i should be slowly rotating the motor here and there while priming. I've got 20w-50 in this thing right now and i'm being told it's hard to get oil up into the head while priming. So far i've been unable to get oil to flow to the head but my drill keeps running out of batterys 2-3 minutes in and my 110v drill starts smoking if i run it.
 

·
Village Idiot
Joined
·
3,481 Posts
Shaun has been PMing me with an oil flow problem to the heads, and I thought this might a good time and place to let some that may not know, that there are good primers and junk primers. If the priming tool you use looks like this
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-62200/
you are never going to get oil to the heads. It has to look like this
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-901010/
You have to have the alumn piece at the bottom to allow the oil to transfer to the passenger side of the block, around the dizzy, and to create a seal for the oil galley at the back of the block. I know we have all seen post about no oil to the heads on these threads before. This is the reason.
If you don't mind I will add to this. Make sure that when you get the primer with the aluminum piece is is from a reputable supplier. I got an "El Cheepo" as a spare to loan out to people (since people never bring back my good tools) and found that it leaks so much oil it is as bad as the one without the aluminum piece. So spend the extra three dollars, it will save you from going bald earlier.

Paul
 

·
steelcomp was here
Joined
·
26,526 Posts
Get a good half inch drive plug-in drill. If youre running Morel hyd rollers, it can take a long time to get the oil to the top...it took almost 15 min. on the last engine I did. It helps to turn the engine over a little at a time while you're priming to cycle the lifters up and down in thier bores.
Why such heavy oil?
 

·
I'm No Expert
Joined
·
3,139 Posts
I got an "El Cheepo" as a spare to loan out to people (since people never bring back my good tools) and found that it leaks so much oil it is as bad as the one without the aluminum piece
I'm wondering if i have the cheapo one. I can see oil comming out of the top of the plug but i'm not sure if it's just normal leakage or not. I think my tool is the proform one. Looks exactly like it. http://summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66896/?image=large
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top