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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got my Sanger hull ready for either one right now, just not sure what to go with. I had purchased some evercoat Gel but from what I am hearing this is a monumental task! I took an auto body course about 20 yrs ago so I am not completely green. I am wanting to go back with white whichever way I go. What are some good easy options for a boat that may run about 60 to 65 mph?:(:(
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok, glad yall said that because I already purchased gel and mold release. Few more questions though, I am thinking of using a gravity feed gun, what size tip? Also, How much time do I have after last coat of gel before I have to spray mold release? They say as soon as it gels, but is that real critical? I am really scared of having a tacky finish! Maybe I should just test some?
 

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leave the mold release out of the loop! grab a bottle of PVA (Poly vinyl alcohol) and go that route, if catalyzed correct and in 75+ temp, you should be able to apply with a HVLP with in the hr.
If I am spraying a complete, I would rather use a 2.0 (Blow-n-go) tip but have used a 1.8, and dont like to thin more than 10-15% have seen some guys get away with more, but if im not mistaken, they use styrene rather Acetone with the heavy thinning agents, I have not had any problems with acetone in my time playing with gel's
Spray the shart out of it and block away!
recently I have been experimenting with hard blocks that will not leave the surface lumpy, and have liked the turnout of the hard blocks with 1/2" pad holes for the rough block (320-400), finish with a soft dura block (1000,1500) then buff!
has worked for me pretty well but im sure that different strokes for different folks!
Gel can be pretty forgiving, but it will bite you in your azz if you are not careful!
Keep a quart of acetone in a cup for the good ol fashioned "Just in case"!:D
But a cheap azz gun for the first go around is worth its weight in gold!
check out www.sherfab.com
they sell a pretty good gun and they have a 2.5 tip also available! its the shit!
129.00 for the gun I think?...and I still use it for the large job!
anyway they offer mail order, and will supply you with anything you need! (Even just answer your questions!)
Sorry for the "Too much info" post, but it has helped a few people in the past!
Todd
now im gonna go pass out! lol
 

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If you use the Duratec additive & gelcoat there is no need to use WAX or PVA..After 24hrs it will be ready to wetsand & will give you a hard hi-gloss finish..;)
 

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Add some Duratec Hi-gloss additive to the gel and it sprays very simular to paint....
Can this be sprayed over paint?? My boat looks pretty good at 20' but I'm thinking of shooting the whole thing this winter. Below the rubrail is already painted because of some damage/repairs. The front/top of the drivers side sponson has some repairs that took me a year to find, now it's all I can see.lol I'm thinking white and some old school metalic maybe a lime green or tangerine. Can you do metalics with dura tec???


 

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Gel it! especially if its only gonna be white!
Yah, what Todd said. After spending a rediculas amount of time on my tub and having another boat bump into it not once but twice chipping the paint on my rail, I genuinely wished I would have gone gel instead of the BC/CC option.

Oh well, live and learn.. Good luck.....john
 

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I wonder if you could gel over what you have John.
That's exactly what I'm wondering. I have a hunch IF you can the drawback would be that the primer and paint under it would still be the weak link if you rubbed a dock or.. I'd at least be gel on gel on 95% of the deck, and only over paint below the rubfail.
 

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I think they new urethane paints being 2 parts may have enough bite to hold. I know there are some clears out there that claim to be pretty darn tough. SPI and Motostorm are suppose to pretty darn durable. I can check with both and see what they have to say.
 

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If you took any advice from anyone here on the boards listen to 99% of the people here by not gel coating over any sort of painted surface!...although it may in some areas grab and stay, you will most definitely deal with delam at some point or another!
Its just two entirely different products that are not formulated to work with each other!
Just my two cents.
 

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So Todd, maybe a good 2 part urethane clear coat built up to say 3-5 coats would be just as good, or at least easier to repair.
 

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Look, if it were me?...I would strip the boat of all paint and base gel it white, If I were to go with a graphic scheme, I would gel it white and use it as a white canvas! Essentially you are going to prep the boat and prime it with a buff, white or grey anyway (Still blocking it like it was a primer!)?...why not gel it, it builds better than primer, its harder than primer and you can w/s sand it until you achieve your desired shine? so its a primer, a base, and or a finish! the hard part is removing the paint, wich is not hard, because every single aspect of this job is labor, if it is something somebody does not desire to do (Stripping) call a local body shop, im sure with this economy, there is someone that will do it!
Another route is w/s the white gel to a high shine, mask off your graphics, do whatever graphics you want, clear the area tha has the paint, then Pinstripe the painted area with a one shot, you will feel the edge, but the edges of the boat are still gel coated! more than one way to skin this cat!
This is just what I would do!...but gel over paint will absolutely bite you in the ass one way or the other!
If anyone is worried about their paint jobs chipping, be more careful, kind like you are with your custom classic cars or bikes, you dont seem to be chipping those up? If your boat means as much as your classic cars or bikes do, you will not have paint issues, look at the BillyB crew, these guys baby their paint jobs they are not bumper boats, when they sometimes beach their boats, they are not squeezing them in between pontoons and kids playing football, playing tug-of-war with fido either! lol
No rant, just common sense! I guess it does sound lie a rant! sorry! haha
Todd
 

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Ok, glad yall said that because I already purchased gel and mold release. Few more questions though, I am thinking of using a gravity feed gun, what size tip? Also, How much time do I have after last coat of gel before I have to spray mold release? They say as soon as it gels, but is that real critical? I am really scared of having a tacky finish! Maybe I should just test some?
O.K. I've gotta ask- What is the PVA mold release used for on a paint job(gellcoat)? I use this so my fiberglass parts dont stick in the mold.Is this for masking areas you dont want the gellcoat to stick to? Or does it do something to cure the gellcoat? Fill me in.
 
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