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I'm No Expert
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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, how many of you guys with performance mills (650+ HP) are running a -8 water lines with a single inlet and no oil cooler?

What water and oil temps are you seeing while cruising around 3K and what temps are you seeing when pushing it hard?

I'm starting to wonder if i should of ran -10
 

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Just your water feed line off the pump to the engine?


What size line do you have exiting the engine ?

S CP
 

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I just want to make sure that -8 is large enough for a performance mill.

I believe that it is, but is it running hot or you just want to make sure that it won't ?

my built roller cam 472" never had an issue with a -8 feed and no oil cooler but you may find that you'll have to restrict the water flow...slow it down in the engine so the heat transfer is more efficent.

S CP
 

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I believe that it is, but is it running hot or you just want to make sure that it won't ?

my built roller cam 472" never had an issue with a -8 feed and no oil cooler but you may find that you'll have to restrict the water flow...slow it down in the engine so the heat transfer is more efficent.

S CP
I'm running a -16 and a cooler, but that's just me... Check you oil and water temp under a hard run and that will help you figure out where you stand. Check it while operating under the most wot you're ever going to make, 'cause that will be when you need it most.
 

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i run a -8 from the pump to a pressure regulator, -10 out of the regulator that splits into the stock water pump inlets at the front of the engine, and a single -10 ooutlet from the intake manifold dumping overboard. temp gauge barely moves with this setup. runs about 150 degrees all the time regardless of how hard i push it.
 

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I run -8 in from the valve to the "T" the to the water pump inlets. Then I have 1 -10 dump line. I run a consistent 135 degrees with no issues.
 

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Have you pulled the 3/8 pipe plugs on each side of the block and drained the water out if the block. Alot of times the block will get filled with sand and could be restricting flow to the rear cylinders. Also where are you taking water temp from. And is your gauges electric or mechanical.
 

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Shaun posted a bit more info in the dyno section. His 230-240* oil temp at 3,000 rpm cruising just doesn't seem right.

How many qrt oil pan?

S CP
 

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i run a -8 from the pump to a pressure regulator, -10 out of the regulator that splits into the stock water pump inlets at the front of the engine,
With having a psi regulator in the system do you just run your water valve wide open?

S CP :D
 

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I read that also jon. But these are new coming problems which leads me to belie something is restricted or something is going away such as a gauge or motor as a whole
 

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I read that also jon. But these are new coming problems which leads me to belie something is restricted or something is going away such as a gauge or motor as a whole
Well lets hope for the gauge...that would suck otherwise but as you stated he should remove the plugs and see in the engine is sanded.

S CP
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I pull water temp from the top of the manifold, right before the dump (the temp sending unit is before and lower than the dump). Yes this is a fairly new problem, I think part of the issue has to do with me not going through the pressure regulator this winter. Every time i go through it, there is corrosion and the screen normally has a bunch of crap in it. My water temps were only about 10* higher than normal. I was just curious if -8 was sufficient enough or if running -10 would be better.

Cyclone, thanks for the reply. Your one of the fastest guys here on the boards so it's nice to hear from somebody with real experience and with a engine putting down some power!
 

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I pull water temp from the top of the manifold, right before the dump (the temp sending unit is before and lower than the dump). Yes this is a fairly new problem, I think part of the issue has to do with me not going through the pressure regulator this winter. Every time i go through it, there is corrosion and the screen normally has a bunch of crap in it. My water temps were only about 10* higher than normal. I was just curious if -8 was sufficient enough or if running -10 would be better.

Cyclone, thanks for the reply. Your one of the fastest guys here on the boards so it's nice to hear from somebody with real experience and with a engine putting down some power!

No problem. remove the screen from the regulator. that clogs easily and could be your problem.
 

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Sounds like you have something stuck in your waterline. If you fix that I bet your oil temps go back to normal.

I run -10 to the regulator, -10 to a "Y" manifold, then 2 -8 lines into the block, an 2 -8 out of the block. This setup has worked trouble free and the oil temp stays around 170-190 when cruising. Stand on it for a while and it will go up to 220-230, but as soon as I get out of it temps come back down.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Last year i could cruise and oil temps would stay around 180-190, and when beating the shit out of it i would see around 230 before i'd give it a cruising rest to bring the temps down to 210ish.

Cyclone, i've gone back and forth in my head a few times about getting ride of that screen. I figured that screen could help keep junk out of my system but i also realize it could clog easily and cause further problems. I choose to leave it in because i tend to watch my gauges pretty closely and figured i would just check it from time to time. This is only my second season running the lower river and if i've noticed anything it's that there's alot more stuff to suck up. I have a feeling that screen could be the culprit and maybe I should just get ride of it. Another thing i struggled with this weekend was getting water to the headers at lower speeds, again probably caused by the same issue.

I think with my next setup I'll run -10 but sounds like -8 is fine too.
 

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I run a -8 to the reg, then from the reg -8 and split it to 2 -8's to the block. Single -10 out. My temp never moves the guage on the dash, but its at about 110-115. My oil temp very rarly sees 220 after a good hot lap. Cuising dow to lost lake last weekend, my oil temp held constant at 190 wether i was on it or just cruising.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
How long of a cruise is that? I've been thinking about trying to cruise all the way up to BR but not sure how long it would take. I keep going further and further up but still trying to learn the river. Furthest i've gone up so far from LL is to the island up by a large dirt launch ramp area (a few houses on other side too).
 

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Last year i could cruise and oil temps would stay around 180-190, and when beating the shit out of it i would see around 230 before i'd give it a cruising rest to bring the temps down to 210ish.

Cyclone, i've gone back and forth in my head a few times about getting ride of that screen. I figured that screen could help keep junk out of my system but i also realize it could clog easily and cause further problems. I choose to leave it in because i tend to watch my gauges pretty closely and figured i would just check it from time to time. This is only my second season running the lower river and if i've noticed anything it's that there's alot more stuff to suck up. I have a feeling that screen could be the culprit and maybe I should just get ride of it. Another thing i struggled with this weekend was getting water to the headers at lower speeds, again probably caused by the same issue.

I think with my next setup I'll run -10 but sounds like -8 is fine too.
if you keep running the lower river you'll likely have to keep disassembling the regulator to clean out the screen. pain in the ass. just ditch the screen.
 
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