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Performance guys, -8 or -10 with no cooler?

5K views 25 replies 13 participants last post by  HomeBlown57 
#1 ·
Ok, how many of you guys with performance mills (650+ HP) are running a -8 water lines with a single inlet and no oil cooler?

What water and oil temps are you seeing while cruising around 3K and what temps are you seeing when pushing it hard?

I'm starting to wonder if i should of ran -10
 
#2 ·
Just your water feed line off the pump to the engine?


What size line do you have exiting the engine ?

S CP
 
#4 ·
I just want to make sure that -8 is large enough for a performance mill.

I believe that it is, but is it running hot or you just want to make sure that it won't ?

my built roller cam 472" never had an issue with a -8 feed and no oil cooler but you may find that you'll have to restrict the water flow...slow it down in the engine so the heat transfer is more efficent.

S CP
 
#6 ·
i run a -8 from the pump to a pressure regulator, -10 out of the regulator that splits into the stock water pump inlets at the front of the engine, and a single -10 ooutlet from the intake manifold dumping overboard. temp gauge barely moves with this setup. runs about 150 degrees all the time regardless of how hard i push it.
 
#10 ·
i run a -8 from the pump to a pressure regulator, -10 out of the regulator that splits into the stock water pump inlets at the front of the engine,
With having a psi regulator in the system do you just run your water valve wide open?

S CP :D
 
#8 ·
Have you pulled the 3/8 pipe plugs on each side of the block and drained the water out if the block. Alot of times the block will get filled with sand and could be restricting flow to the rear cylinders. Also where are you taking water temp from. And is your gauges electric or mechanical.
 
#9 ·
Shaun posted a bit more info in the dyno section. His 230-240* oil temp at 3,000 rpm cruising just doesn't seem right.

How many qrt oil pan?

S CP
 
#12 ·
I read that also jon. But these are new coming problems which leads me to belie something is restricted or something is going away such as a gauge or motor as a whole
Well lets hope for the gauge...that would suck otherwise but as you stated he should remove the plugs and see in the engine is sanded.

S CP
 
#13 ·
I pull water temp from the top of the manifold, right before the dump (the temp sending unit is before and lower than the dump). Yes this is a fairly new problem, I think part of the issue has to do with me not going through the pressure regulator this winter. Every time i go through it, there is corrosion and the screen normally has a bunch of crap in it. My water temps were only about 10* higher than normal. I was just curious if -8 was sufficient enough or if running -10 would be better.

Cyclone, thanks for the reply. Your one of the fastest guys here on the boards so it's nice to hear from somebody with real experience and with a engine putting down some power!
 
#16 ·
Sounds like you have something stuck in your waterline. If you fix that I bet your oil temps go back to normal.

I run -10 to the regulator, -10 to a "Y" manifold, then 2 -8 lines into the block, an 2 -8 out of the block. This setup has worked trouble free and the oil temp stays around 170-190 when cruising. Stand on it for a while and it will go up to 220-230, but as soon as I get out of it temps come back down.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Last year i could cruise and oil temps would stay around 180-190, and when beating the shit out of it i would see around 230 before i'd give it a cruising rest to bring the temps down to 210ish.

Cyclone, i've gone back and forth in my head a few times about getting ride of that screen. I figured that screen could help keep junk out of my system but i also realize it could clog easily and cause further problems. I choose to leave it in because i tend to watch my gauges pretty closely and figured i would just check it from time to time. This is only my second season running the lower river and if i've noticed anything it's that there's alot more stuff to suck up. I have a feeling that screen could be the culprit and maybe I should just get ride of it. Another thing i struggled with this weekend was getting water to the headers at lower speeds, again probably caused by the same issue.

I think with my next setup I'll run -10 but sounds like -8 is fine too.
 
#18 ·
I run a -8 to the reg, then from the reg -8 and split it to 2 -8's to the block. Single -10 out. My temp never moves the guage on the dash, but its at about 110-115. My oil temp very rarly sees 220 after a good hot lap. Cuising dow to lost lake last weekend, my oil temp held constant at 190 wether i was on it or just cruising.
 
#19 ·
How long of a cruise is that? I've been thinking about trying to cruise all the way up to BR but not sure how long it would take. I keep going further and further up but still trying to learn the river. Furthest i've gone up so far from LL is to the island up by a large dirt launch ramp area (a few houses on other side too).
 
#21 ·
screen

if you want to feel good about screening the crap out before it gets into your engine, try one of these from McMaster-Carr. part#9875k513. i use one for my intercooler. they can handle plenty of heat and pressure, and are pretty compact. easy to add inline, easy to see if they are dirty, and easy to clean. they are big enough that they will hold a lot of crap before clogging up.
 
#22 ·
Update

Pulled the regulator last week and disassembled it. Found the screen pretty badly clogged with clay/dirt. I decided to take cyclone's advice and remove the screen. Ran the boat this weekend and oil temps stayed right at 180-190 while cruising and highest i saw was 210 when mashing on it a few times when testing hardware. Pressure was 10 PSI at 3K and 25 PSI at 5500.
 
#24 ·
screen

Lots of trash where I run- I run an in-line filter/screen deal I picked up somewhere- CP maybe- It's a black plastic puck shaped piece with 5/8" hose barbs in/out that has a clear top on it that screws off and a stainless steel cylindrical screen in it that you just pop out and clean off. The plastic/hose barb may be a deal breaker for you if you have AN lines and expensive fittings though. My rig is pretty low buck- heater hose- barbed fittings- even some pipe thread stuff in there. I have some AN stuff up on the engine and AN fuel lines, but under the engine it's all heater hose etc... The thing works great- easy to see when something gets in there, and cleaning it out is a 1 minute deal. Never had any pressure problems/leaks or any issues with it. Maybe you could find something similar with AN connections on it?
 
#26 ·
I run a -8 from the pump to a tee that drops to 2 -6 feeds that enter the block at the water jacket drains. I dump with two -8 lines at the front of the intake manifold. I have two local temp gauges in the water pump holes. It runs 150 cruising and up to 180 drivers side and 190 passenger side on a full pass. Don't know why the difference.
 

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