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I need to redo my water inlet set up from my pump thru the transom, Im wanting to go AN fittings and wanted to see some pics of setups.
 

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The Man
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1,788 Posts
I'm re-doing mine right now. Replaced the ball valve, and added a T fitting after it, going to put an outdoor water faucet valve in there to make it simple to hook up to the hose, just get a female-female washing machine hose to connect the water hose to the valve. Then it's a -6 braided hose on to the engine.
 

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Glendale Arizona
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2,368 Posts
Same idea just plumbed a little differently and using a bypass rather than regulator. Bottom line coming in from the left is feed from the pump into a bypass valve. Line on the bottom going right is feed to the motor. Top line running to the left is dump. The red handle is a cut off valve. The very bottom line going straight through is my fuel line so not part of it.



Viewed from the top.

 

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Here is part of mine. From the regulator there is a "Y" manifol, -10 to 2 -8 plumbed to the front of the block. Water exits the intake manifold and is plumbed to my headers. No ball valves. Setup builds 22-23 psi at wot.

 

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Pressure Bypass

For the guys that run a bypass on an open system, do you still control water temperature
with a gate/ball valve before the bypass or a gate valve on the exit line ?
Thanks for any info. :)bulb
Danny
 

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Thanks Wa . I did'nt think it made too much sense to restrict the water
before the bypass, It seems it would kinda defeat the purpose.
Danny
 

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Glendale Arizona
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2,368 Posts
For the guys that run a bypass on an open system, do you still control water temperature
with a gate/ball valve before the bypass or a gate valve on the exit line ?
Thanks for any info. :)bulb
Danny
I don't use the valve. Why did I cut it in then.............good question. Had it and the fittings so it got cut in. It's not needed. The bypass valve controls water to the block and works fine as long as it's functioning properly.
 

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"Mad" Member
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I don't use the valve. Why did I cut it in then.............good question. Had it and the fittings so it got cut in. It's not needed. The bypass valve controls water to the block and works fine as long as it's functioning properly.
The brass gate valve on my setup is purely their as a safety feature.

I run a hard line from the pump pickup to the gate valve to prevent a blow out in that area. Should any of the waterlines after the gate valve blows, I can prevent the boat from taking on water.

Wikus
 

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Glendale Arizona
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2,368 Posts
The brass gate valve on my setup is purely their as a safety feature.

I run a hard line from the pump pickup to the gate valve to prevent a blow out in that area. Should any of the waterlines after the gate valve blows, I can prevent the boat from taking on water.

Wikus
That was my plan too. Oddly enough the only time I ever blew out a water line it would've been the hose from the pump so the valve wouldn't have helped anyway. Mine is still a soft line from pump to valve albeit it braided now.
 
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