Ride plate should be as wide as the shoe. Any wider and it will cause drag.
Tom at JBP told me I should have nothing hanging below the keel.
QUOTE]
Sort of ... I said put a straight edge on the keel and see what you got then we work from there ...
See...I listened (for once)Tom at JBP told me I should have nothing hanging below the keel.
QUOTE]
Sort of ... I said put a straight edge on the keel and see what you got then we work from there ...
I did that and had 1/4" gap in the back.
Compare to a real shoe and you will see why that wont work well... Better off dragging a bag of rocks behind you as it would take less work to make and give the same results.
I seen it work well on another boat, so that's why I tried itCompare to a real shoe and you will see why that wont work well... Better off dragging a bag of rocks behind you as it would take less work to make and give the same results.
Okay, let me adjust what I said-perhaps it will help a boat that needs to load the pump more, but a real shoe compared to that plate....Aint buying it.I seen it work well on another boat, so that's why I tried itAnd I'm a getting another intake cut right now for a before and after test
devil
Yes that is what I am referring to. There are other design considerations that that plate cannot address...for example, a backcut or taper...I'm assuming that you are refering to the interface between the shoe and the contoured section for the arc in the intake....so there isn't a big "parachute" there...right?
I have come up with a couple ways around that, but we'll see.