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Ride plate/shoe question

1352 Views 10 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Brendellajet
so, I'm gonna whip one up...

If I hold a straight edge on the keel, everything behind the intake is 1/4" higher than the level of the keel. Tom at JBP told me I should have nothing hanging below the keel.

My plan is to make a 1/4" shoe/ride plate combination. I will make the surface behind the intake EVEN with the keel, which seems to be the objective. My intake, and the area that I have behind the intake is 7" wide (give or take)...and the keel (flat keel) is 10" wide.

Would it be more desirable to make the entire keel/ride plate 7" wide?...or keep it 7" wide until I get the to the back of the pod, and then flair it out to 10" to extend the ride plate keep it the entire width of the keel?

Here's a pic of the back of the boat...cuz we all like pics, and for reference.


you can see the 7" wide raised area I'm talking about in the center of the keel.
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Ride plate should be as wide as the shoe. Any wider and it will cause drag.
3
Here's a homemade "bolt" on plate I made. I can't remember the dimensions right now, maybe I'll get them tomorrow when I'm workin on the boat. Can't really tell if it did good, or made things worse though. I would assume it made things better, but I never did a back to back test with it, only have for when setting the plate.



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Tony...that's exactly what I was looking for.

Thanks.
Compare to a real shoe and you will see why that wont work well... Better off dragging a bag of rocks behind you as it would take less work to make and give the same results.
Tom at JBP told me I should have nothing hanging below the keel.

QUOTE]

;)Sort of ... I said put a straight edge on the keel and see what you got then we work from there ...
Tom at JBP told me I should have nothing hanging below the keel.

QUOTE]

;)Sort of ... I said put a straight edge on the keel and see what you got then we work from there ...
See...I listened (for once):D I did that and had 1/4" gap in the back.
Compare to a real shoe and you will see why that wont work well... Better off dragging a bag of rocks behind you as it would take less work to make and give the same results.

I'm assuming that you are refering to the interface between the shoe and the contoured section for the arc in the intake....so there isn't a big "parachute" there...right?

I have come up with a couple ways around that, but we'll see.
Compare to a real shoe and you will see why that wont work well... Better off dragging a bag of rocks behind you as it would take less work to make and give the same results.
I seen it work well on another boat, so that's why I tried it :p And I'm a getting another intake cut right now for a before and after test :)devil
I seen it work well on another boat, so that's why I tried it :p And I'm a getting another intake cut right now for a before and after test :)devil
Okay, let me adjust what I said-perhaps it will help a boat that needs to load the pump more, but a real shoe compared to that plate....Aint buying it.
I'm assuming that you are refering to the interface between the shoe and the contoured section for the arc in the intake....so there isn't a big "parachute" there...right?

I have come up with a couple ways around that, but we'll see.
Yes that is what I am referring to. There are other design considerations that that plate cannot address...for example, a backcut or taper...
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