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Discussion Starter #1
I have an 18' bubble deck with a round keel and a berk jet shoe and rideplate. It has a 1/2" thick shoe witch is an 1/8 below keel and a loader grate with the two pices of angle welded to it. If more info is needed just ask. I was just wondering what angle was standard.
 

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Hmm,...1/8" below keel? how does it shut down?
i would bet it doesnt go fast enough to even worry about it..
not bagging on the boat here, just throwing it out there.Might be over charging the hell out of the intake though.

im bored so take it with a grain of salt, i have no idea what im talking about, just working on the post count.
 

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Boat Nut
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CJ... Todd is right, your shoe is too deep, 1/2" is the norm, for shoe thickness. Pull the intake and reset it, not what you want to do but, seems it's needed. Shoe depth should be at keel or 1/16th above, to allow shimming and fine tune.
 

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Lots of good info here already , photos would be nice ;) and curious where the biting edge of the shoe actually is (1/8 down you say ?) and what its relationship is to the lowest part of the "angle iron loader" horizontal blades" (all this "relative to the keel") Tom
 

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Most guys that are running v bottoms are running between 2 and 4 degrees up in the rideplate. Shoe biting edge depth varies greatly. Also important to look at mouth opening. Loaders will affect biting edge too. If the ramps come very far forward they can blind the shoe biting edge. Lots of variable. There is no absolute for anything, just suggestions. I'd start somewhere and take details notes and keep working at it. Keep dropping the shoe until the boat tells you to stop. keep cutting the ramps back on the loader till the boat tells you to stop. Most of this stuff is trial and error. Each boat even identical models will be different.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The boat shuts down fine, It had a 5/8 in it, I just cut it down to 1/2. The loader was 1/8 down from the keel, I just cut 1/4 off the angle iron and made it 1/8 up from the keel. (Chuck, this is the loader I had, not the one Bo duke gave me) I am going to run it tomarrow and see what it does. Befor I started messing with it, the boat ran 70 with the stock rock grate, now she wont run 60 as it is. As usual, you start messing with something that works to make it better, and you screw it up!!! lol to get the mesurements I used a steel ruler and a caliper off of the high part of the rounded keel. Hey futs, im not taking it to heart, the motor could use a lot more work than what is done to it. It's only a .030 over 454 cast crankand rods with forger srp used pistions (new rings of corse) oval port heads and 850 carb. It is not a race motor for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The ride plate is now at 2 and 1/5 to 3 deg up (towards the pump) I will let you know tomarrow how it works. Thanks alot to every one!!! This site rocks!!!!!!
 

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The boat shuts down fine, It had a 5/8 in it, I just cut it down to 1/2. The loader was 1/8 down from the keel, I just cut 1/4 off the angle iron and made it 1/8 up from the keel. (Chuck, this is the loader I had, not the one Bo duke gave me) I am going to run it tomarrow and see what it does. Befor I started messing with it, the boat ran 70 with the stock rock grate, now she wont run 60 as it is. As usual, you start messing with something that works to make it better, and you screw it up!!! lol to get the mesurements I used a steel ruler and a caliper off of the high part of the rounded keel. Hey futs, im not taking it to heart, the motor could use a lot more work than what is done to it. It's only a .030 over 454 cast crankand rods with forger srp used pistions (new rings of corse) oval port heads and 850 carb. It is not a race motor for sure.
Sounds like you are overloading the pump. I've been doing a lot testing with my 21 daytona. I got it to run 87 so far with my girl, dog, cooler, and half full tanks. So I think I've got at least 90 in it without that stuff. Nope. took all that stuff out it went 85. WTF right. Started messing with some stuff, now it blows the tails massively at 70. So I'm going to start from scrach on hardware set up. Sometimes these things happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It ran 62 on the water speedo yesterday. I have a stock grate im going to put in it today. Hopefully it will free up a little. If not mabe I'll cut the shoe down some more, Or even do a back cut to 3/8.
 

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the only change with the stock rock grate was at 3 grand it went 25 mph in sted of 20 the top speed didn't change. It still ran 60 mph. I guess its time to put the hydrolic roller cam in it insted of the flat tap that is in it now. I got a hold of comp cams and they recamended their cam set #CL-456-8 . It costs $1100.00. It comes with the cam, lifters, springs, and timing chain. what do you guys think adout this cam, and has anyone tried and or used it???
 

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the only change with the stock rock grate was at 3 grand it went 25 mph in sted of 20 the top speed didn't change. It still ran 60 mph. I guess its time to put the hydrolic roller cam in it insted of the flat tap that is in it now. I got a hold of comp cams and they recamended their cam set #CL-456-8 . It costs $1100.00. It comes with the cam, lifters, springs, and timing chain. what do you guys think adout this cam, and has anyone tried and or used it???
Alot Depends on compresion (pistons and heads) induction exaust etc Tom
 

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B.A.M aka "Black Azz Mike
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Pull the plate up to 3.5 to 4 degrees ad see what she does.
 

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B.A.M aka "Black Azz Mike
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FLat shoe,backcut, or tapered? My old vee bottom loved a 2 degree backcut. Just an idea.


I agree with the others. You need to get that shoe above the keel. I kept mine at .120 and she was very happy including shutdown.
 
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