Performance Boats Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
330 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I was wondering what some known setups are? Is anyone willing to share? Circle and drag setups are welcome. It will be getting a dominator and probably 900-1000 hp.

Thanks in advance
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
542 Posts
I asked the same question a while back and all I got was names of who to call. I'm into doing as much as I can myself. My brother-in-law and his Dad had the same Rogers I have, 74 Bonneville. They took it to Roger roughly 20 some years ago to have the intake reset. Back then Roger explained he simply changed the angle of the intake for racing. They had a blown, nitrous BBC 468 that turned a custom made AA impeller 6700 rpm. That boat was really fast and handled awesome. There was a skag installed in front of the intake.

My intake is stock with about 750 hp. The rest is not stock. I turn a Hi Helix B 6100 rpm at 94 mph on GPS. Going with bolt on shoe & ride plate, have it on the shelf, gonna take me a while to install it.

I've been told by someone who used to race both Bonneville & TR to keep this hull at or below 105 mph. A little wind or ripple in the water can send you into one hell of a chine walk ride :)eh:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
330 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
any comp jets guys...

care to chime in

so who do I need to call?
I realise i will probably have horsepower to burn so a nice conservative safe setup would be nice.
It seems like the comp jet guys run flatter so I think I would like to lean that way....
 

·
B1 Racing
Joined
·
6,523 Posts
2.5 degree back cut shoe in relation to keel. 13.250 opening, biting edge depth depends on power level. Open center loader to start, just above or even with keel. Full droop, diverter with a stop to 8 degrees of nozzle. Hyd diverter with down stop at 3 degrees. Straight bottom is a must.

This is what we used for river race or drag setups and they hauled ass. 113 mph with 900 corrected.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
851 Posts
2.5 degree back cut shoe in relation to keel. 13.250 opening, biting edge depth depends on power level. Open center loader to start, just above or even with keel. Full droop, diverter with a stop to 8 degrees of nozzle. Hyd diverter with down stop at 3 degrees. Straight bottom is a must.

This is what we used for river race or drag setups and they hauled ass. 113 mph with 900 corrected.
cs19,
good info and you guys did more with your Rogers than I ever did, I just built them. But I can tell you that from the factory we always did a 3 degree back cut shoe, and the leading edge was always a minimum 1/16 above the keel, sometimes 1/8, depending on power.

Roger did not like set backs, but he didn't have the luxury of the massive amounts of hp that builders have today. His intake location, conservative by comparison... bowl o-ring still sealing in the TA, work just fine to run up well into the 90s. But he was old school before there was old school, he invented, with 2 others, the entire v-bottom jet thing so he saw all the improvements and flops from day one and stuck with what worked best for his hulls. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
330 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
2.5 degree back cut shoe in relation to keel. 13.250 opening, biting edge depth depends on power level. Open center loader to start, just above or even with keel. Full droop, diverter with a stop to 8 degrees of nozzle. Hyd diverter with down stop at 3 degrees. Straight bottom is a must.

This is what we used for river race or drag setups and they hauled ass. 113 mph with 900 corrected.
Thanks for the spot on info...
How does this compare to to what the comp jets are doing?
I don't have any idea about how there set up.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top