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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Trying to fabricate some combination swim step brackets/cav plate pillow blocks (see drawing).

Tried cutting aluminum with a saw... worked flawlessly

Tried rounding the edges.... worked good

Tried template following.... worked like crap. Router chattered to beat all.

Any thoughts? Not ready to give up just yet. Some details.
Still free handing stuff to see if I can get close. Intended to move to a router table but the process is not even close so not willing to invest in the table etc... Router is 1/4" collet, fixed speed ~3/4 hourse, bit is a 1/2" trim/cutoff bit 1" long. My thought is that the router is too fast (need variable speed) and that the long 1/4" bit assy may not be the most stable, especially hand held.
Thoughts? Any experience.

On a high note the bracket templates are bout done.....

Please help, I really don't want to buy brackets and add a bunch of holes in addition to the pillow blocks....
 

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On the dyno....router bits

trying to fabricate some combination swim step brackets/cav plate pillow blocks (see drawing).

Tried cutting aluminum with a saw... Worked flawlessly

tried rounding the edges.... Worked good

tried template following.... Worked like crap. Router chattered to beat all.

Any thoughts? Not ready to give up just yet. Some details.
Still free handing stuff to see if i can get close. Intended to move to a router table but the process is not even close so not willing to invest in the table etc... Router is 1/4" collet, fixed speed ~3/4 hourse, bit is a 1/2" trim/cutoff bit 1" long. My thought is that the router is too fast (need variable speed) and that the long 1/4" bit assy may not be the most stable, especially hand held.
Thoughts? Any experience.

On a high note the bracket templates are bout done.....

Please help, i really don't want to buy brackets and add a bunch of holes in addition to the pillow blocks....
look in "on the dyno" section, i didn't know how to post the link, so i just moved it to the top
 

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Tonite Ill put up a pic of what I used, it's more of a carbide burr rather than a router bit. I was able to free hand what I needed to do. Hopefully you can adjust your router speed. I had to turn mine all the way down, or the aluminum would get hot and plug the teeth of the burr.
 

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Simple- that router is too small and slow and the bit you're using is waaay too much for single passes. Sorry, I don't like letting you know that, like you don't want to hear it. This is work for a no BS mill and multiple passes.

There are enough small machine and job shops there in your area, farm it out and keep your eyes and fingers. Been there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Simple- that router is too small and slow and the bit you're using is waaay too much for single passes. Sorry, I don't like letting you know that, like you don't want to hear it. This is work for a no BS mill and multiple passes.

There are enough small machine and job shops there in your area, farm it out and keep your eyes and fingers. Been there.
May be the case. By the way, not even close to trying to do the cut in a single pass..... Also I'm curious why others have have good luck doing similar. Or is there idea of good different than mine?
 

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spiral router bit

Try this in 1/4 inch, downcut or upcut. Depends on the way you are working. The cuts change depending if free hand or router. Table is better control. If no table, mount the router to a suitable board, clamp and try kerosene or WD-40. If going slow and still chatters, beg, borrow,buy a variable speed. Don't try the 1/8 bits, they will break to easily.
BadBehavior
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Try this in 1/4 inch, downcut or upcut. Depends on the way you are working. The cuts change depending if free hand or router. Table is better control. If no table, mount the router to a suitable board, clamp and try kerosene or WD-40. If going slow and still chatters, beg, borrow,buy a variable speed. Don't try the 1/8 bits, they will break to easily.
BadBehavior
Ok... downcut or upcut for a router table? And same question as before, anyway to follow a template with this type of bit?
 

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Is there a router trick for following a template with that type of bit or do I just have to go slow and be careful?
If your doing a straight line you could clamp a straight edge to follow, if it's not straight you may need to make a jig. For what I was doing I marked the plate with a sharpie and just took off a little at a time until I got to where I wanted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If your doing a straight line you could clamp a straight edge to follow, if it's not straight you may need to make a jig. For what I was doing I marked the plate with a sharpie and just took off a little at a time until I got to where I wanted.
Not straight.... there is a drawing in the first post. I may need to simplify the layout to facilitate this.
 

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Sorry you're still having luck Bart. Two things that are different between my approach and what you're doing is that I had a variable speed router and a 1/2 collett. With that said, I used the router wide open and didnt slow the speed down.

Here's my old post... Please let me know if there's anything I can do. PS, I do recall that if I cut one direction versus the other, it would chatter (though I can't remember which way that was).

Okay guys, for you guttons for punishment here you go.....(I'm taking a break and havin a cold one before I pester Tommy or that punk azz kid of his for tech advice..)

Figgr'd since I needed to trim the plates a bit I'd try to make a poorboy millin machine (i.e. router and straightedge)

Picked up a carbide router bit



My straight edge and some WD40



Are you shittin me, this actually may work!!!



Pop's old router he left me when he passed was not up to the portamill idea



Off to Homedepot and picked up this badazz mofo



Like butter......this thing is making me look like I may actually know what I'm doin (though we all know better)



Due to the design of my 10qt oil pan the plate lightly touch a portion of the pan. To keep from vibration potentially rubbing a hole in the pan from the plate, I decided to fire up the Portamill one more time.



Bitchin!!!!! Works regoddamndiculasly well

 

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Router bit, Pattern

Ok... downcut or upcut for a router table? And same question as before, anyway to follow a template with this type of bit?
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/katana_bits4.htm ( go to bottom of the page)

Called a pattern bit. It is carbide, tougher than cheap HSS. This may be to expensive, look around the web, or locally, carbide will be the better choice, HSS will chatter when it starts to wear. Hope this will work for you.
BadBehavior
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/katana_bits4.htm ( go to bottom of the page)

Called a pattern bit. It is carbide, tougher than cheap HSS. This may be to expensive, look around the web, or locally, carbide will be the better choice, HSS will chatter when it starts to wear. Hope this will work for you.
BadBehavior
Now you tell me..... Originally bought a different style. It did not like the process. Made a loud noise and launched shards of metal.... I have a similar style bit on order to what you suggested but not template following. I was going to try to use a table with a template bushing but haven't found one yet.... I also ordered a rotary file...

Regardless, I confirmed I have access to a milling machine (for a price) so I ordered the aluminum. Two more bits to try before I give up.

Game on....
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
An update

I hate threads that just die... so here is an update.

I demonstrated that I could route 1" aluminum but I was stuggling with template routing so I would have been limited on my inside cuts. I think it is doable but I need to get this done so enough of experimenting....

I'm cutting the outlines of the brackets and my buddy is going to machine the finish shape on a CNC milling machine for me. The power to run the dam thing will probably cost me a hundred bucks but I'll have cool brackets.

I've enclosed pictures of one of the rough cut pieces that I'll be delivering next week and the panel cutter I fabbed up to manage the aluminum on a table saw....

In the future I wouldn't hesitate to cut 1/2" or smaller. Worked really well. With some more experimenting and a little better equipment I think 1" would be manageable.

Thanks again to everyone for the advice. I'll post pictures of the finished product when I get them back.
 

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Holy Crap Bart!!! I didn't realize you were trying to cut 1". Most I've done is 1/2" and that was a bit tough. A router does work on 3/8" and thinner like it's butter.

Good luck with the CNC and post some pics of the parts when theyre done....John
 

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Sorry you're still having luck Bart. Two things that are different between my approach and what you're doing is that I had a variable speed router and a 1/2 collett. With that said, I used the router wide open and didnt slow the speed down.

Here's my old post... Please let me know if there's anything I can do. PS, I do recall that if I cut one direction versus the other, it would chatter (though I can't remember which way that was).
Dude, i got router envy,lol.
 
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