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Discussion Starter #1
so i have the hose hooked up to the boat should i have the hose turned on all the way or just like 1/2 turn or what?

thanks for any help guys :)coffee
 

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Your about to hear a bunch of peeps tell you to disconect your driveline 1st. Do you have water injected headers? If so I disconect the lines to those 1st. A 1/2 turn or so should be pretty close depending on your water pressure. If you see the temp getting too hot, turn the water on more.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
no i have logs and i really dont want to disconect my driveline. because i have to basically remove the engine then.
 

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Ill be the first. Its cheap insurance to pull the driveline. Depending on your pump clearances and the amount of debris that builds in the pump when towing, running the boat with the driveline on is really beating the hell out of the wear ring & impeller. You may not notice a decrease in performance right away, but there will come a time when you do.
 

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Glendale Arizona
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How long are you figuring on running it out of the water? What is it you're looking to do?

Breaking in a cam (20 minutes)? Wouldn't recommend it unless driveline is disconnected.

Starting it to see if it will start and run for a few seconds?.......Still wouldn't recommend it,
but better than the cam break in deal.
 

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Ill be the first. Its cheap insurance to pull the driveline. Depending on your pump clearances and the amount of debris that builds in the pump when towing, running the boat with the driveline on is really beating the hell out of the wear ring & impeller. You may not notice a decrease in performance right away, but there will come a time when you do.
Brendellajet I sent you a pm on the carb.
 

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I'm not sure if it's the best method, but I've fired mine up for a short blast to check for fuel leaks ect. I pulled the inspection cover(mines outside the boat) and had my kid spray hose water full blast in there to get the wear ring. Maybe there is a better way,,,,,I dunno??? Btw it's harder to get em to do that the 2nd time.lol:)grn
 

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I don't think that running on the trailer for a tune check is any big deal if you are set up right. I do it all the time with my customers. Make sure you have water in the bowl/wear ring area. I have a hose set up with a wye and two valves. One hose goes to the motor and one hose goes to a sprinkler head that I set up at the intake under the boat right at the grate or loader. This will keep the wear ring, shaft and packings happy. I have checked wear rings on boats that I have run this way for years and have not noted a problem from this method. I have even broke in a cam or two this way. You just have to be careful and use some common sense, no reving over 2 grand. When I do blueprints for customers I tell them not to run out of water for the first year because I don't trust them to do it properly. And I warranty my jets. When a customer is building a new motor and jet combo, I set the motor in , break in the cam and set tune before the new jet gets installed. Its always better to be safe but if you have to tune on the trailer, do it right and you should be OK. Jim :)
 

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I Have Not Had Any Problem Tuning Or Breaking In A Cam This Way, You Simply Have To Have The Impeller / Wear Ring Wet Before You Start As Said In The Previous Post , If You Have Water Injected Headers , Turn On 1 Side Of Y First(the One Going To The Pump) Then Start The Boat ,and Turn The Engine Water On While It Is Running , Then Turn The Engine Water Off First Before You Kill The Engine, This Will Allow You To Not Have To Dissassemle The Water To The Headers ,,,,,,,, Its Safe
 

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Question from me on this subject.

So if you just want to warm up the engine.

I was considering putting in a "T" before the shut off valve. And running water backwards into the pump. No water to the engine.

To warm up in the pits at the races. No water hose available.
 

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I Have A 72 Horizon Jet And 1 Month Ago I Rebuilt My Pump For The First Time Since 75 Other Than Changing Bowl Bushings. I Had The Front Shaft Bearing Go Bad. After That Many Years, There Was A Lot Of Running On The Trailer And All Internals Looked Good.
 

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E-7 Sheepdog (ret)
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so i have the hose hooked up to the boat should i have the hose turned on all the way or just like 1/2 turn or what?

thanks for any help guys :)coffee
You NEED as much water in that pump as possible, 2 or 3 garden hoses, runningt wide open.

Water is the ONLY "lubricant" between the wear ring and impeller.

Go to a lake and just back it in.
 

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Question from me on this subject.

So if you just want to warm up the engine.

I was considering putting in a "T" before the shut off valve. And running water backwards into the pump. No water to the engine.

To warm up in the pits at the races. No water hose available.
then just disconnect it from the engine and slide the driveshaft back slightly so it won't hit. after you've warmed the engine, re-connect the drive shaft.

most use a warmup bucket. get a large bilge pump, rig up a hose connection from the bilge pump to the hose connection to your engine. make up a nice long wire set, with aligators, to connect the bilge pump to your boat battery. set the bucket so the overboard dump returns to the bucket (most guys replace the standard overboard dumps with a bulkhead connector so they can attach a return hose to the bucket). fill the bucket, set the bilge pump in it, connect the bilge pump aligators, and you're set.

HORIZON72 said:
I Have A 72 Horizon Jet And 1 Month Ago I Rebuilt My Pump For The First Time Since 75 Other Than Changing Bowl Bushings. I Had The Front Shaft Bearing Go Bad. After That Many Years, There Was A Lot Of Running On The Trailer And All Internals Looked Good .
"looking good", and having all specs within tolerance, are two different things. unless it's a panther or jac yj, bad idea. a lot of folks have spent quite a bit of time/money to get their pumps as efficient as possible and running it dry doesn't help keep it that way. these pumps are designed to process water, not air...
 

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You NEED as much water in that pump as possible, 2 or 3 garden hoses, runningt wide open.

Water is the ONLY "lubricant" between the wear ring and impeller.

Go to a lake and just back it in.
These 2 parts dont touch in a properly built pump so whats the lubrication for?

Run it, I dont get why lake boats have such fragile pumps when we literally pump GRAVEL thru ours routinely and dont see 10% of the damage described in these threads.

The rope seal on the shaft is a bit of a concern on a Berk style pump when running for extended periods of time(altho it can usually just be tightened if need be) but the mechanical seal on AT style pumps IS a big concern and for these I would not run for anything other than to flash the motor maybe before you tow to the lake etc.
 

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Jet boat service
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These 2 parts dont touch in a properly built pump so whats the lubrication for?

Run it, I dont get why lake boats have such fragile pumps when we literally pump GRAVEL thru ours routinely and dont see 10% of the damage described in these threads.

The rope seal on the shaft is a bit of a concern on a Berk style pump when running for extended periods of time(altho it can usually just be tightened if need be) but the mechanical seal on AT style pumps IS a big concern and for these I would not run for anything other than to flash the motor maybe before you tow to the lake etc.
You are exactly right here. Usually you want to put water in the bowl to clear out road dirt and grit from the ride on the trailer. These pumps are not that fragile, like you said, more wear is created running in the shallows than on the trailer. Lip seals are a concern that is why I use a sprinkler in the intake. As a builder I get ultra conservative, it doesn't hurt to be extra cautious. jim :)
 

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You are exactly right here. Usually you want to put water in the bowl to clear out road dirt and grit from the ride on the trailer. These pumps are not that fragile, like you said, more wear is created running in the shallows than on the trailer. Lip seals are a concern that is why I use a sprinkler in the intake. As a builder I get ultra conservative, it doesn't hurt to be extra cautious. jim :)
I guess if we put our whitewater pumps in a lakeboat they wouldnt last 3 runs! You guys are hard on pumps

:D;)
 

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I guess if we put our whitewater pumps in a lakeboat they wouldnt last 3 runs! You guys are hard on pumps

:D;)
well, why don't you hook that gravel pumper up and drag it to lowell or. july 10-12 and show everybody how well that junk acclerates on a 1/4 mile track? but there won't be any 10-15 mph current to help you get it to move, it'll have to do that all on it's own...
 

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well, why don't you hook that gravel pumper up and drag it to lowell or. july 10-12 and show everybody how well that junk acclerates on a 1/4 mile track? but there won't be any 10-15 mph current to help you get it to move, it'll have to do that all on it's own...
Whitewater boats arent slow to get on step because of loose or poorly performing pumps, if thats what you're implying. They are slower to plane out because its not important. If you can get up its just a case of timing it properly at the start line and will have zero effect on your typical leg times. The steel race nozzles we use offer noticable gails in top end and are also far stronger to withstand the abuseof whitewater etc that comes at a cost of somethijg which often has little effect on your race times:planing ability. The newer advent of the "beavertail" also has nearly negated this downside anyway

Whitewater setups tend to be optimal for WOT top end speed and rest assured the pumps are taken care of as much as possible. Its simple a case of there being nearly insignifigant damage done to a pump by running it dry other than the seals etc referred to earlier.

In fact you may be interested to know most whitewater boats have the wear ring pinned/bolted in so it cannot rotate in the pump housing. But as was stated we run all kinds of crap thru our pumps. typical boat jetdrives are just not that fragile an item

Cheers
 
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