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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone that has the handhole outside the boat ever do a one piece transom adapter plate? All I can ever recall seeing is 2 piece plates. If so, got pics?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
On my SWTD I have a berk suction. The intake flange is out the back of the pod. So it got me thinking about a 1 piece plate.
 

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AKA OhOneWS6
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Perfect timing. My Daytona is a full setback. I am in the process of making new plates for mine. I was thinking a one piece plate would be nice. I have another issue though. My intake has a place that is machined out. This leaves a big gap. No way I can think of to fill that gap with a one piece transom adapter. Sorry for the thread jack.





Paper template
 

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The best thing going IMO is a different option. Make a plate that bolts to the transom and allows the pump to be removed with that plate in place. Then make two smaller plates that bolt to that plate and can be siliconed to the suction housing for sealing purposes. A low profile intake will not need a lower TA plate to seal up the hole. A std profile intake will need a plate to seal off, unless you alter the intake like Outlaw did on his 21.
If you look closely at the picture below you'll notice the two smaller plates



A one piece would be nice but might be very difficult to remove to get the jet out.

Edit, after looking at the picture above, depending upon the intake you may or may not need to figure a way to seal the lower part of the intake.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah I agree. I haven't taken measurements but I think with a one piece plate I'll be able to slide the pump out the back, I'll have to check to see if the thrust bearing area will clear
 

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I would agree a 1 piece plate could be a real PIA to remove. Could play hell with the powder coat or paint on your pump.
 

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I have a one piece plate on mine. Its a pain to remove the pump, but I only do that once a year at most so it's not a big deal. Use as little silicone as possible and it pulls off pretty easily. The hard part is dealing with the swim steps and steering cable. Once I'm able to break the seal from the hull, I found it's easiest to pull the plate with the pump at the same time.
 

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as promised here is the picture of mine. Wasn't too hard to remove. Take your time make a cardboard template first then transfer to medal. Get it as tight as possible that way you will use less silicone to seal. How far is your set back? If the back shoe pad is even with the transom you may need to go with a 2 piece due to the bottom corners wont seal without a S#@t load of silicone.
 

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as promised here is the picture of mine. Wasn't too hard to remove. Take your time make a cardboard template first then transfer to medal. Get it as tight as possible that way you will use less silicone to seal. How far is your set back? If your shoe plate is even with the transom you may need to go with a 2 piece due to the bottom corners wont seal without a S#@t load of silicone.
Come On, Donkey! Show them the Bad Boy....:rolleyes:
 

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Perfect timing. My Daytona is a full setback. I am in the process of making new plates for mine. I was thinking a one piece plate would be nice. I have another issue though. My intake has a place that is machined out. This leaves a big gap. No way I can think of to fill that gap with a one piece transom adapter. Sorry for the thread jack.





Paper template
matt , i forget who did it but i saw pics where someone welded( might be able to epoxy) a piece in the intake holes. Basically a plate going front to rear that closed in the gap on the intake. might look into that. ill see if i can find the pics
 

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matt , i forget who did it but i saw pics where someone welded( might be able to epoxy) a piece in the intake holes. Basically a plate going front to rear that closed in the gap on the intake. might look into that. ill see if i can find the pics
In this spot I placed a piece of 1x1 x 3 aluminum block. I had to shave it some to get it to fit, and then I drilled and tapped it so the intake adapter bolt would hold it in place. Silicone fills the void. Works well. I was thinking I might redo this part on mine with some jb weld, btw the way it is now works.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just make the plate a little longer in that part, then bend it back at 90* so it covers the hole.
 

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You could do it with one piece plate, but that would make install and removal more difficult as the pump and plate could only be separated once the pump was out of the boat. Ill try to find some pics of my setup. It works really well.
 

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AKA OhOneWS6
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matt , i forget who did it but i saw pics where someone welded( might be able to epoxy) a piece in the intake holes. Basically a plate going front to rear that closed in the gap on the intake. might look into that. ill see if i can find the pics
Good idea TJ. I think I like sandeggo's idea a little better.

Just make the plate a little longer in that part, then bend it back at 90* so it covers the hole.
Pretty sure that is what I am going to do. Just need to mock it up and see if it causes any other issues.
 

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Paper template
/QUO

You could always fill with sea-goin epoxy pudddy then sand it flush. I did that on a old boat at the #1 location in picture above and it worked great. Don't see why it wouldn't work in the void of the intake as long as you got it clean enough.
Just an idea.
 
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