Performance Boats Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,071 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
A buddies pontoon boat is having shifting issues. He bringing the toon over for me to trouble shoot and repair.

Concern:
He says that finding nuetral while it is running is very difficult/hard. It will go into drive or reverse fine one it is in nuetral.
anyone have any guidance?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,234 Posts
Most common issue is too fas of an idle speed..

You did not get specific on drive system, but could be something as simple as an interrupt switch being faulty or a quick sync and linc if the controls.

Have also seen it when the throttle cable is adjusted too tightly toward throttle close and it puts pressure on the whole works.

I would recommend going through a preliminary synchronization of the controls before looking for something broken or worn out...It sounds like it was just dicked around with.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,071 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
old model, 3Liter volvo with a volvo outdrive. Has a large rubber bellow on the transome around the drive.

Thanks for the insight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,234 Posts
old model, 3Liter volvo with a volvo outdrive. Has a large rubber bellow on the transome around the drive.

Thanks for the insight.
How certain are you it's a Volvo? The old stringer model OMC I/O's had th big (24") bellows...1976 to 1986

The shift on the older ones (white drive) was a POS when they were new. Still could be idling too high...


If it truly is a Volvo Penta it will be baby poo green and be very simple to work on...The OMC, not so much.
Check for tightness in the 33C cable and there is a potential the centering ball is worn or a rusty spring, it should all be in the upper housing.

This is a cone clutch dealio not too unlike a Bravo from Mercruiser. There is one cable from the rear cover of the out drive all the way to the control...Cable length will accentuate any goofy issues...

Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,234 Posts
Your right, its an OMC
Things to check...


lower unit have oil? is there water in the oil? this uses a pull pull control box, has oil been pushed into it?
with the boat running on a flusher (or in the water) disconnect the control cable and shift it forward/reverse manually...

Idle literally cannot be above about 750RPM.

Check to see if it has an interrupter module (identified by the two micro switches on the control box at the back of the engine)

If it has an interrupter, press one of the switches in at idle and see if the engine starts to die. It may or may not stay running depending on how well the engine runs. (the module cuts out cylinders to slow engine speed.).

There is a funny looking apparatus at the back of the control box where the pull pull cable comes into the control box (on the back of the engine) stick a small screwdriver in there and push the cable (black rubbery pull pull) inward about 1/2" then pull out the screwdriver and let go of the cable simultaneously, this resets the tension on the little cables...

Above that, it needs to com apart....Good luck finding pieces. :)bit

I have a full on service manual at the shop if you need to see some pages let me know..

Was an Obsolete Marine Company (OMC) master technician for over 15 years....I can pull one apart and put it back together drunk and hungry. :eat:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,071 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I can get ya drunk.......JK
Any pics of the above statements would be great. I plan on starting the trouble shooting Sunday. that is if I can find the flush/hose kit that mount on the drive. Would it be the typical clamshell style for bravo one? or is it completely different.



Thanks for all the info, much appreciated
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,234 Posts
I can get ya drunk.......JK
Any pics of the above statements would be great. I plan on starting the trouble shooting Sunday. that is if I can find the flush/hose kit that mount on the drive. Would it be the typical clamshell style for bravo one? or is it completely different.



Thanks for all the info, much appreciated
Yup, just a regular old Bravo flush muff...

Gather some info and I will check for updates on this thread...Just subscribed to it...:thumb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,234 Posts
Yup, just a regular old Bravo flush muff...

Gather some info and I will check for updates on this thread...Just subscribed to it...:thumb:
is it mechanical shift or hydromechanical the oil pump may be bad
True, still don't know what we're workin' on though :coffee-n-news:


Gonna be waitin' on pins and frikken needles til' Sunday...:bat:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,234 Posts
Some pics to help establish what I'm dealing with.

Thanks guys

Piece O cheese, mechanical shift with all the right junk on it...As stated before, check the oil in the lower....

First things first.

Disconnect the shift cable at the box on the back of the motor by removing the small cotter pin. Once that is done, start the motor on a flusher and attempt to shift it to forward and reverse. It should move quite easily with just your bare hand. (make sure the kids, dog, cat and wife are nowhere near the propeller when doing this)...

If it moves smoothly and goes into each perspective gear without drama, slowly start to move the shifter (engine still running) toward forward and note the sticker at what position it starts to engage (ratcheting sound from the drive). There are numbers to note on that sticker. Then do the same for reverse, note the number...Neutral will be right in the middle, so make any adjustments to the cable to make sure this is correct.

If the arm is difficult to move, the first thing to do is to pull the box all apart and inspect the pulleys and cable guide for issues.

Step two (with motor still running) press the little arm and v-notched actuator together actuating the interrupt micro switch, there is a little bitty button on the switch. The engine should shudder, fart, bitch, piss and moan with the button depressed but not die. This tests the interrupt box and the switch.

Step three would be to ensure the interrupt switch cancel switches are adjusted properly. They should be depressed when the arm is in full forward or reverse. Adjust as necessary with a standard screwdriver. If you can, it is probably box time...

Good hunting. You are working on a mid 80's 400 series stringer motor BTW...;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,234 Posts
Too bad I don't have any more 800 series lowers...Make that toon work mo betta :rolleyes:

You could swing a 14 1/4" prop. :yes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,071 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Idle was set to high 1000 rpms, reduced it to 550/600 what should it be set at per specs.

interrupt module not working, where should I go to get one any specific part number.

Theres two modules, one fixed on theRight and one on the armature the rotates to F/R. What is the right module for?

What type of engine oil should I use for this tunner 4 banger and what drive fluid does this beast utilize?

Bad news is trim clicks but does not work.

Thanks in advance.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,234 Posts
Idle was set to high 1000 rpms, reduced it to 550/600 what should it be set at per specs.
Should run in the 700 range.... Give or take...

interrupt module not working, where should I go to get one any specific part number.
Should be a Sierra number 18-5890 or OEM number 987740 I believe. These seldom fail, be sure to rule out the switches...

Theres two modules, one fixed on theRight and one on the armature the rotates to F/R. What is the right module for?
Those little tiny black boxes you can see in the picture are not the modules, just switches. The module is a little block of plastic mounted on two bolts on the same bracket as the solenoids for the trim...Those switches are wired in series with one another and the one on the left cancels out the one on the right. Just for grins, press each one with a small screwdriver and listen for the "click" with the engine off, they are pretty quiet. There is a chance someone could have overtightened them at one point crushing the switch making them stick. When you actuate the one on the right the engine should get unhappy and the other switch cancels it out.

What type of engine oil should I use for this tunner 4 banger and what drive fluid does this beast utilize?
For engine oil I have always used 10w-40 for these... Seems the most logical.

On the drive they call out for Hi Vis...An OMC product originally...You could also get away with 75-90 gear oil in a pinch.

Bad news is trim clicks but does not work.
Probably the trim motor, have fun with that. Whoever decided that is where that motor should go should be kicked where they pee....:t_lowblow:

Thanks in advance.

Haven't done anything.:)Unsure
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,071 Posts
Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Interrupt works when I engage the right switch manually with a screw driver or by pressing the bracket to swing. But when I swing the shifter to engage R/F its not engageing the switch. I loosened the nut slightly to allow a little more slack with no luck, want to know if I am going the right direction here?


The right interrupt has no boot on it if that matters.

will the gear oil be suitable replacement or is it for emergency use?
How do I fill it?, buttom up like merc?

roughly how many qts of oil?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,234 Posts
Interrupt works when I engage the right switch manually with a screw driver or by pressing the bracket to swing. But when I swing the shifter to engage R/F its not engageing the switch. I loosened the nut slightly to allow a little more slack with no luck, want to know if I am going the right direction here?
This is actually all good things. It should only actuate the port switch when there is a load on the dog. Sounds like its working. Did you adjust the neutral center yet? Once that is done and everything is back together you ajust those black adjustable plastic ramps to engage the override switch in bot fwd and rev.

The right interrupt has no boot on it if that matters.
Not really, it's old...If it were a saltwater boat I would be concerned....

will the gear oil be suitable replacement or is it for emergency use?
How do I fill it?, buttom up like merc?
You can use the 75-90 and yes, just like a Merc. There are three different oil reservoirs, a lower gear case, an upper gear case and the intermediate. Oh yeah, dont forget the tilt clutch...I use air compressor 30 wt in there.
roughly how many qts of oil?
I think the lower holds about 18 oz. the upper holds about 10 oz. and the intermediate hold like 6 oz. She don't hold much...Don't quote me on those amounts. I am at work right now and am merely guessing.

Now go to the control box and move it full forward (engine off) and put the drive in fwd manually and see if the linkages line up (may need to kick the prop to get the dogs aligned.

Do the same for reverse. If both are off, make the adjustment, if one is off and the other is dead on you will need to estimate the center. (give and take).

Sounds to me like the problem is a loosy goosy control box/cable, not the drive itself.

Good luck!

GT
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,071 Posts
Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
This is actually all good things. It should only actuate the port switch when there is a load on the dog. Sounds like its working. Did you adjust the neutral center yet? Once that is done and everything is back together you ajust those black adjustable plastic ramps to engage the override switch in bot fwd and rev.



Not really, it's old...If it were a saltwater boat I would be concerned....



You can use the 75-90 and yes, just like a Merc. There are three different oil reservoirs, a lower gear case, an upper gear case and the intermediate. Oh yeah, dont forget the tilt clutch...I use air compressor 30 wt in there.


I think the lower holds about 18 oz. the upper holds about 10 oz. and the intermediate hold like 6 oz. She don't hold much...Don't quote me on those amounts. I am at work right now and am merely guessing.

So I take it there's different drain and fill for each.

Now go to the control box and move it full forward (engine off) and put the drive in fwd manually and see if the linkages line up (may need to kick the prop to get the dogs aligned.
I'm a little confused on this step, the control box is the shift or the plate assembly on the back of the motor

Do the same for reverse. If both are off, make the adjustment, if one is off and the other is dead on you will need to estimate the center. (give and take).

Sounds to me like the problem is a loosy goosy control box/cable, not the drive itself.

Good luck!

GT
Thanks for the update I'm gonna upload some pics for update
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top