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Discussion Starter #1
Heard sudden valve train noise today. Lash on # 6 exhaust is slightly more than double what it should be. If I change lifter brands, is that going to mess with my pushrod length? Shut it down early, hoping the lifter didn't spill its guts.
 

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Bostick Racing Engines
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Heard sudden valve train noise today. Lash on # 6 exhaust is slightly more than double what it should be. If I change lifter brands, is that going to mess with my pushrod length? Shut it down early, hoping the lifter didn't spill its guts.
Chances are pretty good... yes. Some of the mfg's out there have different dimensions between the wheel CL and the pushrod ball CL.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, its going to get torn down. Sucks, this thing has less than 40 hours of run time on it:|err

anyone know care to guess why it failed? Also, anyone know which brand lifter this is? Chances are good I dont want to re-use them. Will be in the market for a new cam as well as there is some damage on the lobe.

2011-06-21_17-42-16_471.jpg

2011-06-21_17-42-00_598.jpg

2011-06-21_17-42-32_560.jpg
 

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That blows!
This thread is going to get real good, real fast, though.
Crower severe duty with hippo (or whatever) oiling. (run these, not what those are)

Wags
 

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That blows!
This thread is going to get real good, real fast, though.
Crower severe duty with hippo (or whatever) oiling. (run these, not what those are)

Wags
I agree 100%. Thats just ugly and will require alot of cleaning and yes the cam is trashed. Sorry but I did not build the engine and or know how that bar and lifter came out. Good luck and if you want to know a grinder in the OC area PM me and I will tell you. M
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That blows!
This thread is going to get real good, real fast, though.
Crower severe duty with hippo (or whatever) oiling. (run these, not what those are)

Wags
Yeah, definitely blows. Ruined a vacation too. Hopefully I can get a hold of the engine builder tomorrow to find out what the lifters were...not that it will help, but atleast Ill know what not to buy for the rebuild. Hopefully the cam and lifters are all that needs replacing.
 

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B1 Racing
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Isky all the way, my .02

Always check lifter to lifter bore clearance too when changing brands, very important. They are not all the same size
 

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Bostick Racing Engines
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They look kinda like Crane Ultras... I have pulled out a couple of sets of these puppies in the last couple of months and they do not seem to fair well... or at least in the two engines I removed them... or rather had to cut them out of the block and drive out the bottom of the lifter bore. The cams didn't fair well as well. Both sets destroyed axles and rollers... and the lifters that didn't go "adios" you could take the roller and move them to and fro, and while rolling on your thumb feel the needles crunching along. Not saying they are a bad part... just that of the two sets that I have come across in the last month 100% of those sets were completly junk, Lord knows it would be unreasonable for me to use that experience as a refrence to which I would base an opinion. I mean, Crane lifters I am sure are top notch stuff... great... super... peachy-keen if you will. So... any Crane fans out there... I am not, I repeat, NOT shitting upon Crane's unblemished reputation, nor am I saying that their Ultra lifters are nothing but the finest American made products the world has thus far seen.


Personally, I prefer the Crower Severe Duty... have not had an issue with them, been very happy with both the quality and the service life of their lifters. Going on my 7th season in my river hotrod with them and still in good shape with 270lb seat 750lb open springs turning past 7k. About the only solid roller lifter I will purchase for customer or my own engines.

Isky's seem to be good as well, not as much experience with them, but haven't had an issue with any that I have used.

Also... depending on how bad the damage is on the lobe... you may be able to have the cam reground if the damage is not too bad... I mean like damage where you think, "damn... kinda a bummer." and not, "Wholy sheeat this thing is FOCKED!"
 

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The lifter is either a Morel, GS, or a Crane. Easiest way to tell is if the tang where the link bar is connected is polished like the body of the lifter then it is a Morel. If it is black on dull color then that narrows it down to GS or Crane. In addition Morel and Crane used to use a button in natural finish like shown. Morel now uses a black oxided button.

Either brand I don't think that is the problem you have an oiling issue as the spauling on the wheel and the lobe attest to that. You need to mic the lifter bore and then mic the lifters and see how much clearance you got. Proper clearance is .014 to .018". Too loose or to tight in the lifter bores can lead to trouble. We need some more info on this but I don't feel the lifter failed, I feel something else was wrong and the lifter took the abuse as long as it could.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The lifter is either a Morel or a Crane. Easiest way to tell is if the tang where the link bar is connected is polished like the body of the lifter then it is a Morel. If it is black on dull color then it is Crane. In addition Morel and Crane use to use a button in natural finish like shown. Morel now uses a black oxided button.

Either brand I don't think that is the problem you have an oiling issue as the spauling on the wheel and the lobe attest to that. You need to mic the lifter bore and then mic the lifters and see how much clearance you got. Proper clearance is .014 to .018". Too loose or to tight in the lifter bores can lead to trouble. We need some more info on this but I don't feel the lifter failed, I feel something else was wrong and the lifter took the abuse as long as it could.
Thanks for posting Chris. Motor has 37 hours on it. Would a lifter really last that long if something was wrong? Motor was built by a pro that everyone has heard of. Not trying to do any bashing on product or builders, just front to understand what happened and learn from it so I can hopefully catch it in time, next time. What sux is that lash was spot on last week. Put another 7-10 minutes on it when I heard it loosen up.
 

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Bostick Racing Engines
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Here is a pic of the lobe.

View attachment 120293
If that is as bad as the damage is... from the picture, I would say that you could regrind that without a hassle... especially if you wish to keep the same grind.

How much time do you spend idling around and how stout are your springs? Do you run oil restrictors?
 

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Bostick Racing Engines
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The lifter is either a Morel or a Crane. Easiest way to tell is if the tang where the link bar is connected is polished like the body of the lifter then it is a Morel. If it is black on dull color then it is Crane. In addition Morel and Crane use to use a button in natural finish like shown. Morel now uses a black oxided button.

Either brand I don't think that is the problem you have an oiling issue as the spauling on the wheel and the lobe attest to that. You need to mic the lifter bore and then mic the lifters and see how much clearance you got. Proper clearance is .014 to .018". Too loose or to tight in the lifter bores can lead to trouble. We need some more info on this but I don't feel the lifter failed, I feel something else was wrong and the lifter took the abuse as long as it could.

I tend to like the clearance a little bit tighter than that... :D
 

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Sorry, what I get for posting before I drink all my coffee..... .0014 to .0018"
 

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Thanks for posting Chris. Motor has 37 hours on it. Would a lifter really last that long if something was wrong? Motor was built by a pro that everyone has heard of. Not trying to do any bashing on product or builders, just front to understand what happened and learn from it so I can hopefully catch it in time, next time. What sux is that lash was spot on last week. Put another 7-10 minutes on it when I heard it loosen up.
Your welcome. You need to mic the lifters and then the lifter bore. No bashing has gone on you have asked for help to diagnose the failure and that is what we are trying to do is figure out the cause. You have spauling on the cam and gauling on the lifter. That is lack of lubrication. Now lets find out.

Solid rollers don't get much oil at low rpm, at high rpm they are pretty happy. So yes I can see the lifter living for that long if it is getting starved only at low rpm. Generally when you have a defective part it is going to fail immediately.
 

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Okay it is not Morel or a GS but a set of Crane Ultra Pros. On the tang where Morel mills it flat to attache the link bar they have a radius at the bottom of the cut where the tang attaches to the body. The picture you have shows this area to be flat. A GS is black oxided on the feet, the mill cut for the oiling, and the tang. What you have is a set of Crane Ultra Pros, BUT the lifter failed due to lack of oil. Any lifter would have failed.
 

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steelcomp was here
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Your welcome. You need to mic the lifters and then the lifter bore. No bashing has gone on you have asked for help to diagnose the failure and that is what we are trying to do is figure out the cause. You have spauling on the cam and gauling on the lifter. That is lack of lubrication. Now lets find out.

Solid rollers don't get much oil at low rpm, at high rpm they are pretty happy. So yes I can see the lifter living for that long if it is getting starved only at low rpm. Generally when you have a defective part it is going to fail immediately.
I have to go with Chris on this...I don't see a lifter faliure due to a bad lifter. Everything I see points to either a clearance issue, or an oiling issue, or both.
JMO
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks everyone for their comments. The lifters are indeed crane ultra pro's. Unfortunately I do idle the boat a lot. Would hydraulic rollers handle the idling any better? I might have to forego some power as Im not going to change where I boat.
 
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