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Discussion Starter #1
So..trying to get the my POS running for this weekend. I'm a bit concerned about my steering cable connection to the pump tiller arm. I see lots of pictures where the eye on the end of the cable is bolted to a little clevis adapter thing, which is then bolted to the tiller arm. I had no such piece, so I simply used a good quality 3/8-24 bolt with about 1/2" of non-threaded shank (fits nicely in the eye at the end of the cable)...and along with a nut on each side of the tiller arm and a few stainless washers as shims, assembled everything. I'm thinking that the reason I didn't have one is because there was not diverter on this boat when I got it. Will the steer tube bushing take up the flex from the diverter sufficiently or should I machine up one one of these little clevis adapter things?

Is 6061 T-6 good enough or should I make it out of steel?...or, whats the real name for it so I can order one?
 

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This clevis piece you speak of is about $30 and the "right " way to do things.
Stainless, sleeved, nylocked, the whole gig.
Buy it . Dont okie doke yourself on your steering :)coffee
 

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This clevis piece you speak of is about $30 and the "right " way to do things.
Stainless, sleeved, nylocked, the whole gig.
Buy it . Dont okie doke yourself on your steering :)coffee
You mean like an ARP rocker stud and a stud girdle poly lock?

 

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I had no such piece, so I simply used a good quality 3/8-24 bolt with about 1/2" of non-threaded shank (fits nicely in the eye at the end of the cable)...and along with a nut on each side of the tiller arm and a few stainless washers as shims, assembled everything.
That's about the way they were done back in the day.........

.....or, whats the real name for it so I can order one?
Rex Marine Swivel connection kit
 

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How do you determine the length of the extension? I'll be adding a droop and I know I'll need a longer steering hook up.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
So....WTF is the point? When I made the post, I was thinking that the steering tiller tilted with the diverter, but after looking at it, thats not the case......so...I can have the steering cable end pivoting on a bolt...or have another piece in there that pivots on a bolt.

No thanks Tom...I don't need anything else in my cart right now. I can machine one up as soon as I understand the point.

I don't want to half ass anything, but it seems that the regardless of which way it's done, the shear point strength will be the same. I imagine if the steer tube is positioned higher in the transom so that it isn't on the same horizontal plane as the tiller arm, the extra pivot would be necessary, but I drilled my transom plate perfectly level with the tiller arm, so there isn't any up and down movement, just the side to side.
 

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Pat ,The "active" steer tube bushing will take care of the "side to side" Greg most times the 4.5 " billet extension , when used with a "swivel" (shown above) will work well with a Diverter and droop combo ! Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK, I understand the necessity with a droop...but I ain't got one (and I'm runnin' outta money so don't throw one in my cart...yet :D)

Cool, we'll run it and see. With my luck, it'll probably sink before I get a chance to try and make it turn, so its probably a moot point anyway.

Did you get my cable out today? I'm hoping to have this thing out at elsinore on Sat or Sun. to make sure it floats before I drag it out the river for father's day.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You mean like an ARP rocker stud and a stud girdle poly lock?

Hack :D J/K

I've got half my boat held together with old SBC head bolts. They were in junk drawer...might as well use 'em.
 

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I had mine set-up like that and after loosing my steering and almost crashing directly into a cliff last month, I "upgraded" to the tube and swivel kit. Good thing for the tullies! Having it half-assed rigged will put a lot of stress and tension on the steering, sometimes feeling like your loosing steering. It made a big difference when I added the steering kit and droop, which I bought from Tom @ JBP.


I had to use a 2 1/2" bolt and 1 1/2" extra spacer to make it work.
 
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