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"Floatin' Motor"
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Discussion Starter #1
Looking to get some more HP, I have a stock BBC with a Holley 4160, MSD ignition, Holley Blue electric fuel pump, HEI distributor, Bassett headers. Need some reccomendations please...
 

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"BOATLESS"
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3,468 Posts
Thought about that too, if anybody has any kit suggestions for a NOS kit let me know. Preferably 1 from Jeg's or Summit will work too. Thx in advance.
I run the cheater plate system for a 4150 carb, works great but like everything I do i go overboard.:)sphss

I run that system with a separate 1gallon fuel cell that I put in 120 octane VP in, so when press the go fast button it adds the 120 fuel with the n20.
I also run a seperate fuel pump and filter with a Hobbs switch and a fuel PSI gauge in the dash.
Better safe then sorry.

Nitrous is fun when set up properly. ask cs19 I beleve he is the king of n20, I have a junior system compared to the big players on here.
 

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Premium Member
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4,704 Posts
Holly blue aint gunna cut it. If you add a huffer your gunna need to add a better fuel pump. Then maybe add -8 or better. Then ya need a enderly check valve or fuel regulator that will feed the thirsty carbs on top. Less you get it EFIed. Uh thats just the fuel system. Your electrical is gunna need a boost. But you can get by with and HEI.

Did I mention the Pyrometer. Jet kit or nice AFR meter set up. Not nessessary but a failsafe to keep that motor from Sploding. I think my pyle was faster before the blower. All the added weight. But now its all about the sound. Yea its a bit more powerful but it just boils water now. Did I also mention the bronze or Stainless steel impellar you'll need. :D:p.

Theres more but I'll leave it at that.
 

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You are talking about a "STOCK" motor here. Very limited on boost you can run and limited on the shot it can take as well. Think about building a motor. Just sayin.
 

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Certified Wildman!
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188 Posts
put a Whipple Charger on it, make boost right off idle, don't kill your motor and have fun haulin ass. Call Dustin @ Whipple (559) 442-1261 and give him your boats info, size, weight, baseline eng, etc and let him tell you what will work best. Nitrous only makes power WFO, while a Whipple Charger lets you catch and pass em rolling on the throttle instead of WFO. Depends on what blows up yur skirt I suppose *wink*
 

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"Floatin' Motor"
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114 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
You are talking about a "STOCK" motor here. Very limited on boost you can run and limited on the shot it can take as well. Think about building a motor. Just sayin.
You are correct, i've talked to a few people and heard that 125 shot would be safe, but you know how people talk. Thx

put a Whipple Charger on it, make boost right off idle, don't kill your motor and have fun haulin ass. Call Dustin @ Whipple (559) 442-1261 and give him your boats info, size, weight, baseline eng, etc and let him tell you what will work best. Nitrous only makes power WFO, while a Whipple Charger lets you catch and pass em rolling on the throttle instead of WFO. Depends on what blows up yur skirt I suppose *wink*
I like the catch and pass idea, that way they don't see it comming. Thx, i'll give a call.



Finding the right setup and everything i need to make it right (and safe), is what i need from you guys. I appreciate all the input and more if you have it, this is all "greek" to me.
 

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They say that you can No2 or boost on a stock short (cast pistons), but you just can't. ABSOLUTE minimum buy forged pistons! Then you can properly gap the rings for the nitrous. I have boosted two cast piston engines (454,327) without properly gapping the rings. (boosting stock engines) Both engines pulled the pistons apart above and below the rings. The ring grows from the heat, binds up on the cylinder and breaks the ring land under the ring then pulls the top off of the piston. The amount that you can run isn't worth the hassle. 5psi of boost or 100hp of nos.
Others will disagree, and others I am sure have done it with success. I have done it with very unsatisfactory results.
As for me, I always have to ruin my own $#!+ before I believe!
 

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There is an inexpensive used centrifugal in the parts section. You could easily blow through a Holley and make some good power. If you choose to blow through PM me.
 

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Premium Member
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4,704 Posts
Many will say you can take a bone stock motor and put ahuffer on top. Can it be done. Yup.

Everything these guys have hinted are true. Forged piston, Wider ring gaps and a cam made for a blower are just the start. With all that air your gunna need the heads to help it breath. The carbs are gunna need to be built for the blower. Regular carbs are going to frustrate the hell out of you. It will be fat on the bottom then as you speed up your way to lean.

Your exhaust valves need to be enconels!!! Do not skimp on this. It will cost you tripple if you do!!! Flat top or dished pistons to keep your compression low.

With the blower being added your tiny fuel lines that work today wont feed your thirsty carbs. I had to custom make mine outta 1/2" pipe. I also added a Areotek Fuel pump rated for 1100hp fuel delivery. Along with the fuel regulater design to work with a blower set up. Im hooked now on the blower feel and sound. But if I were to do it all ovewr again. I would have just placed a bad ass sheet metal tunnel ram and 2 1150Dominators on top and added a scoop nad had a great time with it. Now I'm so hooked it dont matter how many parts I break with the blower. But in the end. Its a costly exchange. Good Luck.

Heres why I'm hooked.



Really I wish I had listened to Farmer John and Sleeper CP when I did mine. I didnt and it cost me.
 

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Putting a blower on your boat is kind of like running Michlein tries on your truck.
Once you do it, you'll want to run them for ever.
After you have once got used to the cool whime of a supercharger on your boat; It doesn't make any difference how fast a boat will run without one, it's just not as much fun!!!!! They are very addictive.

Some people will argue N2O works just as well but it costs a lot less. It may work as well, but it does NOT cost less. With a blower you pay for everything up front. With N2O you pay a lot less up front. BUT you have to keep making payments on it every time you use it from there on.

Duane HTP
 

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Highaboosta
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3,431 Posts
The centrifugal blowers like a Procharger or a Vortech have really come on strong lately and they work great with a stand alone intercooler and blow through carb.

This guy sure made a good show,
 

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Not neccesarily advocating it, but I suppose there are execptions to everything , but I bought an 18' Bahner in 03' from Norcal with a "Baby" 171 Wieand supercharger /single carb 850 deal atop an original 2 bolt cast piston production Marine motor (cam change only) and ran it hard for two seasons, swapped the pan ran two more seasons in my V-drive cruiser , then swapped it (less blower) to a budjet resto as a used motor for a customer where it still rocks it today Perhaps like the whipple suggestion something like that might satisfy your needs , Completey agree with the others that to do it right you would need to consider a forced induction specific motor build, just finished one and building a second now, not cheap ;) Tom
 

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The centrifugal blowers like a Procharger or a Vortech have really come on strong lately and they work great with a stand alone intercooler and blow through carb.

This guy sure made a good show,
Mark from what I've read the only drawback to those centrifugal blowers is that they need rebuilt pretty often and its expensive.
Steve Morris just had his F-3 stolen in shipment back to procharger for a rebuild. Someone with the shipper replaced it with a big rock that weighed appox. the same.
 

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pro charger is my choice

hey blding a bbc pro charger for my "26 velocity", went about it wrong. before learning about the fourms,many have givin valuable advise,i got off on wrong foot, i purchased a procgr,m3sc,kit used,came with every nut bolt,that was just the beggining way underestimated what it would cost to build the blower motor ,already knew i needed rods,blower pistons,forged crank,3/4 feul delivery,1000 h.p. pump.boost ref regltr,injectors,only god knows, how many dollors its going to cost me in base tuning dyno time,i made some uninformed choices in some of my parts, so i have a growing wrong stuff pile .point is comit ,i did already spent,12000.00 not even close to wrapping this up ,I WANT SUPERCHARGED BOAT POWER !!and im willing to work 2 jobs to have it and thats what its going to take ,if going e.f.i.add 5000,in injectors,ecms,fuel sys up grading,gets costly. on other threads the guy said he wished he went to a sheet metal t/r with big carbs .i had that and sold it for a few grand to help finance this bld. and if i had know what ive learned in last 2 months i probally would have kept it i had it in a little nordic tunnell. it made huge power! i tuned it in over a few months, in the water ,no dyno reqd ,ran for years ,so logical choice for me was getting new off shore,pull n/a motor from tunnel throw in some pistons cam change.add my blower, stock efi from motor in new boat, and job done rite ,,,,,,,,,not so fast .make sure you do all your home work. and plan on twice your budjet,or you will end up ,? well i ended up with empty bank account,2 boats that arent running at this time, and a 700.00 a month payment on something thats sitting in the shop .,hope i find when its done,it was worth it .i think it will be. i raced bikes semi pro and won alot with blown kawis, cost a lot more but racing a n/a bike never scared the livin hell out of me like a blower. hope this works in water too!!!!! dont even think about forgetting the drive enhancements needed for the excissive power, when she is dialed in. good luck i think the pro charger was the best chioce in blower styles
 

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Highaboosta
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3,431 Posts
Man that's hard to read. It's like one long sentence.

You should have done all your own home work and research up front before you spent any money. Going off other peoples advise just gets multiple more conflicting opinions.
 
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