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The Good
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
We ran the boat for the first time this weekend. I ran the plumbing with two -10 lines in and two -10 lines out through the transom. The headers were on a -8 line off the manifold in the center under the thermo housing. We could not build up enough pressure to open the T-valve and feed water to the headers. I then took off one -10 dump line and capped it. Now there was too much pressure. I do have a ball valve i can control on the header line. I would slowly open it at about 2500 rpm and stop once i saw steam out both sides. It always took a little longer on one side than the other. Then we would slowly back off the throttle to see when the pipes went dry. The problem is that the side that got water first also would still be pushing out water at idle and not dry out. you could see it spitting out the weep holes and the engine would want to start to load up if you didn`t jump back on it to clear the pipes. Needless to say we ran it most of the time dry, but i need to get this worked out soon.
Three ?'s
1. I have one line after the T-valve a little longer than the other side. Is this causing the imbalance in water pressure to each side?
2. Does it sound like I should put a new ball and spring in the valve since it seems to be sticking open?
3. Should I move the header line to the capped port at the thermo housing?

Thanks
 

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I've never been a fan of those Bassett/ Rewarder T-valves. I like the Rex Marine valve because you can control it from the drivers seat, or turn it off.
 

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Water takes the fastest path. It is very important that the lines from the T are equal. The other line usually from the thermostat housing should have a valve. that line with the valve goes out the boat.As long as the spring isn't broke its good to go. Keep "debris" out of it Make sure the spring isn't in upside down!You need the valve on the dump line to build pressure for the spring to work. 2500 is a bit much I prefer 1700 My02:D
 

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Water takes the fastest path. It is very important that the lines from the T are equal. The other line usually from the thermostat housing should have a valve. that line with the valve goes out the boat.As long as the spring isn't broke its good to go. Keep "debris" out of it Make sure the spring isn't in upside down!You need the valve on the dump line to build pressure for the spring to work. 2500 is a bit much I prefer 1700 My02:D
Very well stated above.

Water out the headers should be equal in volume and timing, and it should be steam....if you have a bunch of water droplets pouring out it is too much water. We fix that by putting .080 or .100 jets in the header fittings. Late bassett fittings are already reduced size but the hole may be too big depending on your pressure.
 

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12 years and not one problem with my Rex T-Stat bypass or Bassett T.
One line into the block-two dumps out = 10/11 psi and a veeeeery trouble free set-up :)devil
I agree with Rex...all hoses must be equal length.
PS > I filter the water before it enters the block AND the T valve. Prior to doing so, rarely the check-ball may get hung-up with small debris.
 

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The Good
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Discussion Starter #8
Very well stated above.

Water out the headers should be equal in volume and timing, and it should be steam....if you have a bunch of water droplets pouring out it is too much water. We fix that by putting .080 or .100 jets in the header fittings. Late bassett fittings are already reduced size but the hole may be too big depending on your pressure.
I was getting enough pressure after capping the second dump line. I do have a bypass valve on the main inlet line, but pressure has not been high enough to open it. The problem was as i opened (by hand) the ball valve i installed in the line between the manifold and T-valve , just enough to get a little steam comming out while cruising, the ball and spring in the T-valve did not seem to want to shut as the RPM (and water pressure) dropped off. Barely enough water to create steam while cruising, but too much as It fell back to idle. I know it might take a few seconds for any residual water to "cook off" inside the pipes as you slow but I should not get water sputtering out the weep holes at idle. I don't want to break a new engine.
 

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Josh we plumb these to have a 1/4 turn lever ball or Rex's billet water control valve from the water source ( be it from the jet drive engine feed or off the intake outlet ) before (and in conjunction) the "T" valve and another lever ball valve on the OB dump line tucked under the transom , Also recommend that the control valve be seat/stringer mounted to use to completeley shut off water to and "dry " out the headers at idle , EG in the 5 zone and as an option on high speed runs (rules , laws and chrome plating permitting;)) Tom
 

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doesn't that need constant manipulation? Does it get annoying?
Nope.

Off, Low, Med or High.. You select. Depending on your h20 pressure you'll use one of those settings.


Not really..... but if you forget to turn it on you "WILL" Fock your headers up.
Well thats why you ceramic coat them :D

But seriously. If you forget you'llhear the difference in sound right when you mash the gas.
 

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I was getting enough pressure after capping the second dump line. I do have a bypass valve on the main inlet line, but pressure has not been high enough to open it. The problem was as i opened (by hand) the ball valve i installed in the line between the manifold and T-valve , just enough to get a little steam comming out while cruising, the ball and spring in the T-valve did not seem to want to shut as the RPM (and water pressure) dropped off. Barely enough water to create steam while cruising, but too much as It fell back to idle. I know it might take a few seconds for any residual water to "cook off" inside the pipes as you slow but I should not get water sputtering out the weep holes at idle. I don't want to break a new engine.
Look, you have TWO lines coming off the thermostat.... One goes to the Bassett T.... Done...... Now the other has a valve and goes to the dump Done! Now to set the water simply, On the trailer in the water. open inlet lineto engine. now rev engine to 1700 start closing valve on dump line. when you see slight mist wallla your done let off and check at idle NO water! Now.... check your temp idle mine is 170 open or close INLET valve until it sits and doesn't go over 180 or so depending where YOU boat. Bassett has all the info you need on their website.only lines that have to be equal are the ones from the T to the headers> good luck
 

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Try the Banderlog $250. BANDERLOG is trouble free set it up, and dont even worry about it again, until its time to check the screen!!! Hope this helps!!! Easiest, and best way to go. You can choose either 1500, or 2k RPM's. Its a really clean set up!!
 

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Nope.

Off, Low, Med or High.. You select. Depending on your h20 pressure you'll use one of those settings.




Well thats why you ceramic coat them :D

But seriously. If you forget you'llhear the difference in sound right when you mash the gas.
Yeah, well It only takes ! drunk moment and your headers are DONE! But hey I'm only here To fock sh!t Up!:)handLOL
 

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Not really..... but if you forget to turn it on you "WILL" Fock your headers up.
Between looking for other boats & Doos, finding a good song on the stereo, keeping the 30 pounds of shit that my girlfriend brought from flying out, and enjoying my boating experience I know Ill fuck it up...I don't trust myself:D.

BTW...I lost water going into my headers with the valve (they're ceramic coated and shitty already so no biggie)...Do you guys have to blow out the lines or something every once in a while. I haven't gotten around to checking the problem?
 

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Between looking for other boats & Doos, finding a good song on the stereo, keeping the 30 pounds of shit that my girlfriend brought from flying out, and enjoying my boating experience I know Ill fuck it up...I don't trust myself:D.

BTW...I lost water going into my headers with the valve (they're ceramic coated and shitty already so no biggie)...Do you guys have to blow out the lines or something every once in a while. I haven't gotten around to checking the problem?
Make sure the injectors are not clogged, other that that just rig it like I said, And treat the dump valve like a "sore Peter" meaning DON't Fock with it. You will be golden!:)devil
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Look, you have TWO lines coming off the thermostat.... One goes to the Bassett T.... Done...... Now the other has a valve and goes to the dump Done! Now to set the water simply, On the trailer in the water. open inlet lineto engine. now rev engine to 1700 start closing valve on dump line. when you see slight mist wallla your done let off and check at idle NO water! Now.... check your temp idle mine is 170 open or close INLET valve until it sits and doesn't go over 180 or so depending where YOU boat. Bassett has all the info you need on their website.only lines that have to be equal are the ones from the T to the headers> good luck
Thanks for the responses. I have done this correct before with my old Olds. I know my set up and plumbing are correct except for maybe the gate valve on the dump line and i'll cut the extra inch or so off my header line. If all of this is correct and I open the 1/4 ball valve at 1700 rpm and get a little steam, as the RPM drops and pump pressure drops the the ball and spring valve in the basset T should close completely. I'm still getting water at idle. it won't go dry fast enough. it starts to cause the engine to load up. If im getting a little steam at 1700 rpm then they SHOULD be dry at say 1300? If I open it enough to get just a little steam out, the water pressure never drops. Thats why I'm thinking the internals of the T-valve are suspect. Also the only reason i did not run a valve on the dump line is because i have a bypass valve prior to the engine. if i slow the water comming out of the block won't that extra pressure just push out the bypass? no real gain in back pressure ...Right?
 

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Thanks for the responses. I have done this correct before with my old Olds. I know my set up and plumbing are correct except for maybe the gate valve on the dump line and i'll cut the extra inch or so off my header line. If all of this is correct and I open the 1/4 ball valve at 1700 rpm and get a little steam, as the RPM drops and pump pressure drops the the ball and spring valve in the basset T should close completely. I'm still getting water at idle. it won't go dry fast enough. it starts to cause the engine to load up. If im getting a little steam at 1700 rpm then they SHOULD be dry at say 1300? If I open it enough to get just a little steam out, the water pressure never drops. Thats why I'm thinking the internals of the T-valve are suspect. Also the only reason i did not run a valve on the dump line is because i have a bypass valve prior to the engine. if i slow the water comming out of the block won't that extra pressure just push out the bypass? no real gain in back pressure ...Right?
Have you ever opened up a bassett T? Check the spring! there is a ball and a spring thats it! Make sure its in correct, Make sure there is nothing stuck in there. And put the god dam valve on the dump....lol make sure those lines are even. Maybe get a restrictor to put in the lines to the injectors. Sounds like the spring is upside down?:)bulbFYI the pressure reg only works one way. will not affect back pressure. Only affects pressure from your pump. Dude your so close don't let that sissy lala T Fock with YOUR program!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Josh we plumb these to have a 1/4 turn lever ball or Rex's billet water control valve from the water source ( be it from the jet drive engine feed or off the intake outlet ) before (and in conjunction) the "T" valve and another lever ball valve on the OB dump line tucked under the transom , Also recommend that the control valve be seat/stringer mounted to use to completeley shut off water to and "dry " out the headers at idle , EG in the 5 zone and as an option on high speed runs (rules , laws and chrome plating permitting;)) Tom
Hey Tom. After reading up on your website and what you describe above, you use the valve on the engine dump line to regulate the pressure in the entire system so the T valve opens when you want it to. and the 1/4 turn lever ball on the header water line before the T is only used as a "on/off" and not to fine tune the pressure correct? just out of curiosity what psi do those T valves open roughly?
 

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Hey Tom. After reading up on your website and what you describe above, you use the valve on the engine dump line to regulate the pressure in the entire system so the T valve opens when you want it to. and the 1/4 turn lever ball on the header water line before the T is only used as a "on/off" and not to fine tune the pressure correct? just out of curiosity what psi do those T valves open roughly?
Because all boats are not the same nor do they work or flow exactly the same so it makes perfect sense to me to afford a measure of control over water in and water out (thus the control valves before the "T" and bofre to OB dump , leave little to chance , control it !

FWIW we started building both a standard and our new adjustable T'valve (but are currently out of production due to time constaints) our research show most T valve to want to open around a meager 3 to 4 psi on out test manifold

 
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