Performance Boats Forum banner

1 - 20 of 47 Posts

·
I'm No Expert
Joined
·
3,139 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Whelp, ran the boat pretty good this 4th with the new restricted push rods. Did a lot of cruising, did some tube and wake board towing, and ran it hard a couple nights.

First thing I noticed was oil temps. My oil temps seamed to climb a lot faster now, and climbed up into the 230-240* when cruising around 3K with only one other passenger. I didn't keep going, normally when it would get up that high i would just shut it down and float for a bit. I have a feeling the temp would have kept climbing. My water pressure when cruising around 3K was showing 5 PSI so I'm wondering if that could have been contributing? Normally i see closer to 10. My water temp was around 150, I looked down once and saw it closer to 160. Last year my water temps were closer to 140 and I didn't have this issue when cruising, normally it would get hot when beating on it and then i would cruise to cool it down...

Next, my oil pressure still sucks. So I'm thinking the problem has nothing to do with the grooves that were cut into the lifters. For some reason I have this gut feeling, and i've had it since the beginning of this problem, that it's the oil pump. The pump is a melling HV pump and this is my second one. The first one felt heavier, and the bolts were standard, This new one was metric and felt cheaper to me. I'm thinking it's time to pull the motor, drop the pan, and put a good pump on it... Maybe a nicer pan too.

Couple other questions... What causes excessive oil temps? I've been contemplating an oil cooler for a long time but I'm not sure if an oil cooler is really what i need or if it's going to just be something to hide another problem. I'd like to hunt down the root cause of this, figure out exactly whats happening and fix it, not hide it. If my oil temps were hot from hauling ass around all the time i could understand, but when cruising at 3K it just doesn't seam right to me.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
25,975 Posts
fix the water flow
change the oil pump, try a mellings 10778. The standard issue mellings seems to have slipped a little in quality control.
If your not running synthetic oil, think about it. That alone will lower you oil temps. Nelson 109 is running M1 10/40 Racing T4 9every pep boys/kragen/auto zone in the country carries it)and can't get the oil temps up in a 900hp blown 540 pushing a 21ft cruiser. And he drives like he is possessed. Sorta like you. With the water to the cooler virtually blocked he is only reaching 180.
the cooler the engine block and heads, the cooler the oil. I wouldn't get to alarmed about 250 and synthetic. And I bet you have a hard time getting over that. don't forget shaun, the upper viscosity number is at 212, 230 isn't that much higher than it viscosity testing temp. Synthetics laugh at 230. When my boat finishes a race, the 240 oil temp. gauge is pinned. But is not something I loose sleep over.
the biggest oil heaters in a engine, you don't have. Sled rockers and flat lifters.
fix the water and oil pump first, then think about a cooler.
although the restricted PRs didn't fix you oil press problem, they are helping to keep excessive oil out of the heads.



100% free webcam site! | Awesome chicks and it is absolutely free! | Watch free live sex cam - easy as 1-2-3
 

·
Resident Ford Nut
Joined
·
10,075 Posts
wow 230-240* just at 3,000 something isn't right. I'd hate to see what it would do after making 6 wot passes. The Syn oil will help but, something doesn't seem right with those temps.

After we put the cooler on the boat we monitor the oil temp, we only worry about water temp in that it doesn't get to hot or boil in prolonged idle mode. Oil temp on long hauls 12 miles at 4,000 rpm's 190* +/- water temp around 140*. If the cruise oil temp is at 190*, the racing temp goes to 220-225*, even though we run syn oil I don't like seeing 240* oil temp.

S CP :)bulb
 

·
I'm No Expert
Joined
·
3,139 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Ya, I had a feeling that part of the temp problem was my flow (reason for that other post). Normally each season I will pull my regulator apart, clean it, and reset it. I didn't do that this year, I think i need too. Water pressure at WOT was only 20 PSI and i normally see 25 or a few pounds more. At 3K the water pressure was some what low, and if i would jump on it a tiny bit and bring the RPMS up into the 4K range the pressure would suddenly jump up to around 10.

When i pull the engine I'm going to run through the lines and regulator and see what they look like.

Bob, I'm running synthetic oil, mobile1 15W-50
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
25,975 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
25,975 Posts
. If the cruise oil temp is at 190*, the racing temp goes to 220-225*, even though we run syn oil I don't like seeing 240* oil temp.

S CP :)bulb
With new cars running water temps in the 225+ range, 250 oil temps are becoming pretty common. Id be willing to bet the Nascar boys are running pretty close to 240-250 thru the entire race and they don't seem to be trying to get it lower. We run 250-260 depending on the water temps. I don't what to see it much higher, but I can live with 250 all day.



100% free webcam site! | Awesome chicks and it is absolutely free! | Watch free live sex cam - easy as 1-2-3
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
25,975 Posts
The Titan is nice, but it requires you to rework you pan to get it in. I gave up on iron pumps and pickups after we broke the last iron pump off at the bolt boss in the very first race with it.
I run this pump now. Bolts right into the same pan you have, and it has never dropped below 55 [email protected] WOT hot, even when Bill does crazy ass maneuvers like this.
LINK: Mellings billet pump




100% free webcam site! | Awesome chicks and it is absolutely free! | Watch free live sex cam - easy as 1-2-3
 

Attachments

·
LAID IN MEXICO
Joined
·
750 Posts
oil temp

with the change from the 509 to a 540this year, i decided to start monitoring the oil temp. what i found out right from the beginning, was that the olson oil cooler was working way to well. i was cruising for 15 to 20 miles at 4000 to 4500 rpm, and seeing 140* and about 175* at WOT.

so ive been reducing the water on the pick up side of the cooler, and am seeing small changes, but it is taking bigger changes to see little increase. i will keep making changes until i see the temps im after (200* to 250*).

i will not be a bit surprised to find out i can cap the oil cooler and run without it. this is a blown 540 that makes 1025 hp. so it should be making some heat. also keep in mind, i run a magnaflow water pump, which puts a good amount of water through the engine, and i dont preheat through the exhaust. my water temps are usually to low to register, with all that cold water moving through it. i see 120 max on the water temp from the side of the block, but thats pretty much right after the water enters the block. i would say its set up more like water coming off a jet pump.

i was pretty shocked at how low the oil temps were. this is with piston oilers and spring oilers; which i would think, should be adding heat to the oil.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
25,975 Posts
Nelson, after thinking about the PMs between us, I would be too concerned about oil that hangs at 180 while cruising. The oil doesn't have to get to 212+ to keep moisture out. It may not boil out, but it sure as hell evaporate pretty quickly. Anything lower than that while cruising is too low in my opinion. But if you can heat it to 180, and keep it below 250 hammered you doing pretty good.

also, after thinking about the water pressure in the cooler, thats actually pretty laughable. The same seal that keeps the oil from leaking into the water is the same one that keeps the water from the oil. If it can seal off 100+psi oil pressure with zero psi on the water side, while sitting still cold on the trailer, it is more than capabable of holding back the water pressure. In fact, having water pressure on the other side of the o ring only helps. Your never going to get enough water pressure in the cooler to blow past the o ring seal.



100% free webcam site! | Awesome chicks and it is absolutely free! | Watch free live sex cam - easy as 1-2-3
 

·
Resident Ford Nut
Joined
·
10,075 Posts
what's the difference??:)

I kind of figured if I could get the oil temp stabilized at 190'ish for long runs the water, if any, would disappear. to me hot oil means hot bearings, valve springs etc. would rather keep the heat out of them while cruising.

S CP
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,573 Posts
I kind of figured if I could get the oil temp stabilized at 190'ish for long runs the water, if any, would disappear. to me hot oil means hot bearings, valve springs etc. would rather keep the heat out of them while cruising.

S CP
?????
 

·
steelcomp was here
Joined
·
26,515 Posts
I've been eyeballing a titan pump for awhile..... man not cheap though but it should last me forever.
You're not doing anything that should require any more than a good ol' Melling HV pump. There's a problem somewhere, you just need to find out what it is. It could be the pump, but not because the pump is the wrong one for the application, it just might have improper clearances. Same with the rest of the engine. Buying some high dollar billet pump is only going to bandaid whatever the real problem is.
JMO
 

·
steelcomp was here
Joined
·
26,515 Posts
surface VS the entire volume or mass:D
Hey, at least I didn't try to confuse the issue with sublimation:)hand

don't you have a ring to polish or something?
Ha ha...not that would be a true temp issue.:)hand
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
25,975 Posts
You're not doing anything that should require any more than a good ol' Melling HV pump. There's a problem somewhere, you just need to find out what it is. It could be the pump, but not because the pump is the wrong one for the application, it just might have improper clearances. Same with the rest of the engine. Buying some high dollar billet pump is only going to bandaid whatever the real problem is.
JMO
I agree, the billet Mellings doesn't move one ounce more oil than the iron one does. It fact it uses the very same gears. But it doesn't break, and it doesn't have a pickup that can crack or fall off. But the quality control of the standard Mellings has fallen way off, I have become weary of the iron itself lately. The Mellings Select Iron 10778 is vastly nicer than the standard M77.
The Moroso blueprint pump seems to be pretty decent as well. Both are my choice in an iron pump. On the bottom rung is Milodons. Worse pump I ever bought. Maybe just a bad one, but don't care to try another.



100% free webcam site! | Awesome chicks and it is absolutely free! | Watch free live sex cam - easy as 1-2-3
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,573 Posts
Water boils at 212*, but can evaporate at any temp. But you knew that.:D
not -entirely- accurate. but it's not relevant to the question. you and gn, take your time...:)

but here's another question. if shan's oil is 240-250, that would imply that the crankcase is the same temp. what would crankcase pressure be? 5psig? 6? does he have an eductor or vac pump so pressure is negative? just for grins, say the temp is 240. what do you call water at 240*, at 20psia or less?
 
1 - 20 of 47 Posts
Top