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What do you guys use to seal the threads to avoid milkshake? I'm talking head bolts and rocker stands.

I've been using ultra copper on studs, with mixed results.

In a jet boat. I do have a pressure blowbye to bring down the block pressure. I've tried restrictions but don't like low flow at idle.

Jerry
 

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G'mornin Jerry

I've always used this stuff without issue. Couldn't tell ya if it's the best stuff to use or if there's any reason not to use it, just that I've had satisfactory results.

 

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Have you tried he ARP thread sealant? I have had good luck with it and you might find it at Morgans.
Yup good stuff. I think its just Teflon paste relabled for ARP and available at most plumbing stores.
 

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I use Teflon paste. The data logger shows 68 lbs of water pressure at the 130 area, no leaks !
Holy crap, I knew force fed pushed a LOT of water through, but didn't think it was that much!! What size line and what style pick up you guy's using? We know our pump is only about 25 lbs but we'll be running force fed this season in the drag boat and definitely don't want the chiller to see that much pressure!!
We use -10 with only about 3/8" on the long side of an angle cut that's flush with the bottom of the plate in the front. Just got another pick up from Bergeron and it's got about a 1/2" hole facing forward. I'm thinking I'm gonna cut it off but trying to decide if I'm going to make it like the other or....
 

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x 2 on the Permatex. Jocko
X 2X2 That's about the same stuff GM used to sell as thread sealer and the same stuff i use on the head gaskets i have re-used 6 times.
 

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Holy crap, I knew force fed pushed a LOT of water through, but didn't think it was that much!! What size line and what style pick up you guy's using? We know our pump is only about 25 lbs but we'll be running force fed this season in the drag boat and definitely don't want the chiller to see that much pressure!!
We use -10 with only about 3/8" on the long side of an angle cut that's flush with the bottom of the plate in the front. Just got another pick up from Bergeron and it's got about a 1/2" hole facing forward. I'm thinking I'm gonna cut it off but trying to decide if I'm going to make it like the other or....
A single # 10 line feeds the engine. The pick up is on the cav plate, # 10 fitting through the plate , cut off on an angle. The bottom is open, no cup facing forward ?

I have since changed the incoming line setup and added a Tee to bypass the extra water outside before the block. This dump line has a 17# check valve to keep the block loaded , but, increase the water temp from 100 degrees to 180 degrees. We couldn't get the oil to warm up. It was always within a couple degrees of the water temp.. ( Bypass is a # 8 Enderle brass can, I could change the spring easily and I had it in the tool box )

I'd warm the oil up in the dry sump tank , but, as soon as the boat left the ramp, the oil was right back to the water temp. The bypass fixed that. Now the oil is 190 degrees for the whole race.
 

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X 2X2 That's about the same stuff GM used to sell as thread sealer and the same stuff i use on the head gaskets i have re-used 6 times.
#3 Permatex is CLOSE, buts not the same. For bolts, I prefer the GM sealer, for studs I prefer ARP Teflon. GM uses the sealer for bolts from the factory, and torque specs are based using the sealer or something similar like Permatex #3. The Teflon is slick enough to throw off the torque spec.
The GM sealer is hands down the best shim head gasket sealer made, and not a bad sealer for copper/o ring gaskets.
GM still sells the stuff, you just need to know the magic words.



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GM still sells the stuff, you just need to know the magic words.
Gimme some of that brown sticky stuff that comes in a can with a brush connected to the screw off lid, that you put on threads and gaskets please. :happy:
 

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