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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I sold my 10. It was a good piece, but set up for gas, so was limited in max output.
I was convinced I was going to get a Blower Shop 10. The look great! Will make plenty of boose. (std top and bottom opening)
Well, I have been looking... the Kobelco pieces are nice. Obviously good. Many out there. They are black, though. UGLY
14's... tons out there used.
I was WANTING to stay with my low profile crank trigger dist. The Blower Shop thinks their 10 will hit it, so change to crab cap. Well, if I am going to change to crab cap... why not get a used 14? TONS out there cheap.
So, my dilema is... WTF? Blower shop... looks great, will fill the bill. Hard to find used. So, 3500 ish. Used Kobelco with K8 rotors fresh strips 3200. Used 14s under 2g all day.
Wags
 

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I'm not a blower guy, but - PSI?

 

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Discussion Starter #4
Your 10 cleared you dizzy? Let me guess. It was a Mooneyham or a Littlefield.
Well, it was a Mooneyham. Most 10's won't clear the dist? Shows what I know. I have used Moooneyham or Littlefield, so I assumed they all cleared.
I have about 4.5" from back stud to dist. cap.
Oh, I also could throw on an indy intake, but then it goes to queer belt length stuff.
Wags
 

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I don't know what distributor you have, but if it is low profile and the Blowershop 10 may hit, I assume it would be with their standard manifold.

Ask them about using an Indy manifold, which they sell. It is a couple of inches higher and looks good.

I use one of their 10-14's with a crab distributor and the Indy manifold and have lots of room above it. I can even get the distributor out without removing the blower.
 

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steelcomp was here
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Just go crank trigger and problem solved. :D
 

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There's something about this that just doesn't look right.

 

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:)bulb Put a small spacer under it.

Or better yet twin turbo.

:) :D :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have a BDS competition manifold (I think). My dist is the crank trigger dist with the HEI style terminals. Bigger diameter than standard dist.
I love the indy $tuff.
The blower shop thinks his 10 will hit. With a crab cap dist the blower will go over the top of the dist. I have crank trigger, so I am just moving the spark.
Problem with indy manifold is I have pulleys for my std height manifold. Add 2", then belt length has to change, or a whole bunch of pulleys to buy. I think I can do 97 to 118 ish total tooth count now.
Wags
 

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Well, I sold my 10. It was a good piece, but set up for gas, so was limited in max output.
I was convinced I was going to get a Blower Shop 10. The look great! Will make plenty of boose. (std top and bottom opening)
Well, I have been looking... the Kobelco pieces are nice. Obviously good. Many out there. They are black, though. UGLY
14's... tons out there used.
I was WANTING to stay with my low profile crank trigger dist. The Blower Shop thinks their 10 will hit it, so change to crab cap. Well, if I am going to change to crab cap... why not get a used 14? TONS out there cheap.
So, my dilema is... WTF? Blower shop... looks great, will fill the bill. Hard to find used. So, 3500 ish. Used Kobelco with K8 rotors fresh strips 3200. Used 14s under 2g all day.
Wags
Let's see, your boat was dialed well enough to win SITC. Runs the number easily, so what to do in the off season? Let's dick with it!!! IMHO, bling matters and you can not beat the blower shop billet cases for looks. Not to mention they work pretty well too.
So are you wanting to run faster than 8.0's? Unless you plan on trying to run a lot faster than 8.0, a Blower Shop 8-71 set up for alcohol would more than handle your needs and would clear your distributor too.
Tony's 470 had a Blower Shop 8 and it easily ran the number at Phoenix with a LOT left over in my flat. Plus it cleared a MSD12 Pro Mag. Something to consider...
 

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A Mooneyham and Littlefield on a Mooneyham or Littlefield manifold, or copy like the BDS comp manifold, will clear the dizzy with a ten. The manifold sits the blower a little further forward than other type mainfolds. But the blower is different as well.
Most blowers add the additional length of the blowers over 6-71 all in to the rear. The Mooneyham, and Littlefield blowers added the first inch from 6-71 to 8-71 evenly front to rear. They almost look like 6s because they are because they don't have the look of the additional inch in the rear. So a Mooneyham and Littlefield are about 1/2" shorter on the rear than most others as the sizes go up from th 8. I would think if you keep the same manifold, it would work because the diference i only about a 1/2 if I amnot mistaken.

TBS should be able to give you the distance a hold down bolt to the rear cover so you can check. Just make sure which hold down hole they give you, because the pattern is staggered from on side to the other.

Put an Indy plus a chiller on it and go right over the top of the dizzyhil:)



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Let's see, your boat was dialed well enough to win SITC for the last 2 years in a row, $15k worth. Runs the number easily with the girlfriend tunin it, so what to do in the off season? Let's dick with it!!!:)devil IMHO, bling matters and you can not beat the blower shop billet cases for looks. Not to mention they work pretty well too.
fixed it for ya.

i completely agree. bling matters. especially on fridays and saturdays. sundays, not so much. some people only care about sundays... ;)

steve, go with that black thing. bling sux. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #15
David... I know stupid, huh. It just barely won the 10g in 09. It did awesome in 10. LOL. But if air was crap I was in trouble. Besides, tuning and changing is fun. I got nothing to prove.

BP.. quit telling who is tuning. She will change pills, pulleys, etc. It is hard enough to keep her from telling the competition where to go. :D
And she told me if I drop dead, she and Dave are still going racing, so they will need a driver.

I like the blower shop 10. I really don't need much more "insurance". So, the blower shop it probably is. (now, just have to work on the new blower shop special)
It runs, it will be fine.
Now, I just need to decide what to do with prop, gears, and shaft angle. ROFL. It needs a different prop. Maybe turn some more rpm's.
Wags
 

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Am I right in saying you can run billet rotors, or a billet case, but not both?:)bulb

GN wants my Littlefield 10, but he can't have it. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Am I right in saying you can run billet rotors, or a billet case, but not both?:)bulb

GN wants my Littlefield 10, but he can't have it. :D
You can run both.
My old 10 had cast rotors. One reason I did not just strip it. The math was I would have spent a g on freshening mine. But I sold it for 1500.
The 10's have 1" added on to the cast rotors. No problems, but it always bugged me.

So, actually the blower shop cases are extrusions fully machined if I remember right. I was actually hung up on the billet rotor. Really it does not make 2 hoots in hell for a guy that is driving in less than 25% over. (like me) We drove it +2 to +8% to run 8.0's. Only 10.5 compression.

Wags
 

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Am I right in saying you can run billet rotors, or a billet case, but not both?:)bulb

GN wants my Littlefield 10, but he can't have it. :D
Only because you still have enough money to eat. I can wait.:)devil

It really shouldn't matter what the case or rotor are made of because the rotors and case never(should) touch. I have never heard this, BUT:

There is something I have always wondered about. Force can now machine his own billet blocks and heads in house.
All TF, and FC blocks and heads are now billet.
And yet none of them run billet blowers. Force could very easily machine his own cases and get rotors from SSI or Kobelco. But he doesn't.

Anybody know why?



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Discussion Starter #19
That is a good question GN.
There are some bad ass 8-71s out there.
Maybe that Kobelco is the way to go. LOL
$$i is nice stuff too.
Hell....well....

Oh, it seems as an Indy manifold is about 1.8" taller than a standard "competition manifold".
Wags
 

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If you liked that question, then think about this, how many companies are currently building blowers, and how many of those cut full size 6-71 and larger cases from billet?
When Littlefield created the NB20, why did he invest in all the tooing required to cast them, when he could have just written a CNC program for it, and not messed with all the tooling AND and CNC program to machine the cast cases. And when you get right down to it, the TBS race blower is just a billet NB20.
Has anybody ever asked SSI, Kobelco, or Littlefield why this is.



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