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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1st Sorry for all my mofo'n questions lately ...I've asked this same Q a year more ago and it turned into a "dang your motor leans a lot" thread. Question being if this was you carb. would you set the floats to the bottom of the windows and call it good?? Out of the box i fired it up with the sight windows out for a second, and fuel came out of the secondary side.I adjusted ift down about 1/16 maybe 1/8 of a turn, put the clear windows in....ran it..and I'm 1/2 way up the rear window. Oddly enough I think I'm more worried about the front bowl. This winter I may look at some motor plate adjustments/mods and try and level her out some but for now..how would you set it if it were your junk.

Sorry I didn't realize how bad that photo was until I posted it. You cant tell from the pic but the bubble is dead ctr on the level.
 

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steelcomp was here
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I'd set the floats with the carb level and like Hallet says, maybe some extensions in the rear. Really shouldn't be a problem.
 

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Thanks GT, I went that route(wedge/ for sale btw) on my 4150. The plan for the domi is a little spray(plate). I'm not sure if I want to stack a wedge on a plate...

I wouldn't think it to be an issue.......On that note, do they make a wedged NOS plate...:)bulb

GT :)hand
 

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1st Sorry for all my mofo'n questions lately ...I've asked this same Q a year more ago and it turned into a "dang your motor leans a lot" thread. Question being if this was you carb. would you set the floats to the bottom of the windows and call it good?? Out of the box i fired it up with the sight windows out for a second, and fuel came out of the secondary side.I adjusted ift down about 1/16 maybe 1/8 of a turn, put the clear windows in....ran it..and I'm 1/2 way up the rear window. Oddly enough I think I'm more worried about the front bowl. This winter I may look at some motor plate adjustments/mods and try and level her out some but for now..how would you set it if it were your junk.

Sorry I didn't realize how bad that photo was until I posted it. You cant tell from the pic but the bubble is dead ctr on the level.

Honestly if it were me... id pull carb and set the floats while level...

floats do what they gotta do on an angle or level.. they float up and down allowing fuel in or stopping it all together.. Your motor is at a good angle, but i wouldnt worry they should work fine....

Or maybe my common sense is a bit retarded... :D
 

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Honestly if it were me... id pull carb and set the floats while level...

floats do what they gotta do on an angle or level.. they float up and down allowing fuel in or stopping it all together.. Your motor is at a good angle, but i wouldnt worry they should work fine....

Or maybe my common sense is a bit retarded... :D
The float level for me is not the deal killer....It is the chance for a spill over when getting on plane...You will either flood it out, or lean it out if extreme enough...

Just my opinion due to the fact that the carb is sitting as level as it ever will in the picture, it will get worse in the water....;)

GT :)hand
 

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steelcomp was here
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The float level for me is not the deal killer....It is the chance for a spill over when getting on plane...You will either flood it out, or lean it out if extreme enough...

Just my opinion due to the fact that the carb is sitting as level as it ever will in the picture, it will get worse in the water....;)

GT :)hand
You really should fix that, and not with a wedge.;)
 

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Change the angle of the engine.
What kind of boat is this?...I know a lot of times, changing the angle of said dangle is not possible....

You can't "bend" horsepower without consequences.

This is why most marine manufacturers have either made a wedge shaped carb spacer or a special manifold...

GT :)hand

Check that, it's a friggen jet!, changing the engine angle, unless it is not straight to the pump now, would be a gigantic mistake.
 

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steelcomp was here
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What kind of boat is this?...I know a lot of times, changing the angle of said dangle is not possible....

You can't "bend" horsepower without consequences.

This is why most marine manufacturers have either made a wedge shaped carb spacer or a special manifold...

GT :)hand

Check that, it's a friggen jet!, changing the engine angle, unless it is not straight to the pump now, would be a gigantic mistake.
I'm sure you've been down this road before...your jet seems to have more engine angle than most...your engine should be at something near the angle of your intake mounting, which is usually 4* on a Berk. You could have your engine at 3* and it wouldn't care. Of course, that depends on your engine mounting and drive line. It looks closer to 5-6*.
Just an observation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
What kind of boat is this?...I know a lot of times, changing the angle of said dangle is not possible....

You can't "bend" horsepower without consequences.

This is why most marine manufacturers have either made a wedge shaped carb spacer or a special manifold...

GT :)hand

Check that, it's a friggen jet!, changing the engine angle, unless it is not straight to the pump now, would be a gigantic mistake.
I don't have a digital angle finder. At a glance the dl and the pump look perfect(maybe too perfect??) seems fine. The rails are level with the stringers. And the angle on the feet of the rail kit are parallel to the plates if that makes sense. In other words if I change it very much I'll have to modify of get different feet. I'm going to try to check it on the water today(I hope) that's my best guess(in the pic) as to how the boat sits. I like the nos plate / wedge idea the best, doubt that's an off the shelf dealio... When I mentioned I started a thread a while back on this.....I now remember Steel having concerns with the wedge because then the carb wasn't parallel with the plenum. I dunno.. I doubt, say 1/4" off the bottom of the front plate would kill me.
 

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I'm sure you've been down this road before...your jet seems to have more engine angle than most...your engine should be at something near the angle of your intake mounting, which is usually 4* on a Berk. You could have your engine at 3* and it wouldn't care. Of course, that depends on your engine mounting and drive line. It looks closer to 5-6*.
Just an observation.
Steel's right.

There is no "requirement" that the engine crankshaft angle exactly match the pump shaft angle. a 1-2 degree difference is actually benneficial to needle bearing life in the u-joints.
They are designed to roll, not just lie still jammed against the cup and cross-piece shafts.

The front of the engine does not have to be above the shaft line, it could just as easilly (if you have clearance) be below the shaft line, making a negative 1-2 degree angle for the u-joints.

A pump shaft 4* tilted from the stringers (for a reference surface), then a +2 degree creankshaft tilt makes for a 6" angle at the carb flange (assuming the manifold does not tilt the carb any).

A -2 degree engine angle makes only a +2 degree angle at the carb flange.
 

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Steel's right.

There is no "requirement" that the engine crankshaft angle exactly match the pump shaft angle. a 1-2 degree difference is actually benneficial to needle bearing life in the u-joints.
They are designed to roll, not just lie still jammed against the cup and cross-piece shafts.

The front of the engine does not have to be above the shaft line, it could just as easilly (if you have clearance) be below the shaft line, making a negative 1-2 degree angle for the u-joints.

A pump shaft 4* tilted from the stringers (for a reference surface), then a +2 degree creankshaft tilt makes for a 6" angle at the carb flange (assuming the manifold does not tilt the carb any).

A -2 degree engine angle makes only a +2 degree angle at the carb flange.
I agree with ya both, it was assumed (I know :p ) that the motor was installed nose down, I normally install the engine at Zero angle to the shaft and lower the front mount 1/2".
If we were talking more than a degree or two, I would call BS...

More than a couple of degrees one way or the other (even worse when angular and parallel are off) can cause major harmonics and vibration, which will kill the pump bearing and rear main bearing, not to mention the driveline....

GT :)hand
 
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