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I'm famous !
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Hell , Its winter
how many of you like to paint the lifter valley's with rustolem and do you think it is benificial or a hinderence . I have done this before and did not like the fact that the paint would eventually flake off ..
 

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Some still do it. There are far better products than paint to coat the valley with. There are some teflon coatings available designed for it. Which engine? The bbc has a very good oiling system and return holes from the heads to pan are very good. Olds not so much. Fords I have no idea.
 

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I'm famous !
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Discussion Starter #3
Some still do it. There are far better products than paint to coat the valley with. There are some teflon coatings available designed for it. Which engine? The bbc has a very good oiling system and return holes from the heads to pan are very good. Olds not so much. Fords I have no idea.
just a general bull shit question - i have done it in my Chebbies :D heads and valleys -
 

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Glyptol is the stuff to use. Should be able to find it in an electrical supply store. I didnt paint mine though...
 

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Go to grainger and tell them you are looking for paint for electric motors , If you tell them glyptol they have no idea what you are talking about.
 

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Bostick Racing Engines
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Go to grainger and tell them you are looking for paint for electric motors , If you tell them glyptol they have no idea what you are talking about.
No... If you tell them you're looking for paint for electric motors they will have no idea what you are talking about... you have to specify red insulating VARNISH for electric motors... apparently paint and varnish are a bit of word play that confuses the folks behind the counter. It's made by Sprayon... costs like 6 bucks or so.

Used to use glyptol when I was a young lad... it was made by GE and you brushed it on... but haven't been able to find it here and was told that it ain't kosher in California anymore. The red varnish works well though... comes in a 20oz spray can... but you must have a very clean and dry surface or it will not adhear properly and will eventually flake off.
 

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Glyptol is the stuff to use. Should be able to find it in an electrical supply store. I didnt paint mine though...
Glyptol is the right stuff, but should be put on new iron only, if not it will peel due to oil in the pores of the block. I have an engine that I built in 1970 and is still in service . No problems with the gyptol.:(:(
 

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CLASSIC HOTBOATER
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red insulating VARNISH works very well seals the block the oil rolls off of it very fast and it will not flake off
its about 8.00 a spray can use two light coats
 

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www.highflowdynamics.com
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Glyptol Electrical Armature Paint.....if you simply must paint the inside of your cylinder block. I'd rather not if I don't need to....



LO
 

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Bostick Racing Engines
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Why paint when you can polish :D

Though tweekers and sanding rolls are plentiful and cheap here in East County... I prefer to keep them away from my shop.

Dude... that block was at least a box of sanding rolls and a few "bumps".


J/K:D

I had some tooth grindin' tweaked out fool bring in a block to get bored one time... the entire block was a mirror... inside... outside... the works... not a single casting area untouched... and all like I said... mirror. I asked him how long did that take... and he said he had worked on it for about two days straight. Which didn't seem all that bad to me for a fella with a little bit of tooling, some motivation, and a whole lot of nothing else to do...:)sphss
 

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The Man
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I read some where someone lost like 30# off the block by polishing the whole thing.

Tim
I've seen one like that, but they did more than polishing. They took off alot of material everywhere they could "safely" do so. It looked pretty cool though.
 

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Lurker
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Why paint when you can polish :D
That is really the way it should be done IMO!!!!

All of this painting or polishing does VERY little (read nothing measurable) for actual oil drain back. The only things that aid oil drain back is removing all casting flash, opening up and proper aligning (head to block) of the drain back holes. Once this is done it is left up to controlling wind age and blow by to maximize oil flow back to the pan. Some designs will benefit from the installation of external drains (Oldsmobile, shallow valve angle BBC heads ect.).

The REAL reason for polishing or painting is to clean the surface (painting is just sealing it in) of sand/loose casting so it doesn't come loose at some point and go through the engine.

Also during polishing/grinding you can eliminate some stress risers by properly blending certain areas (main web ect.).
Never have been a fan of painting, and prefer good old fashion elbow grease, a die grinder, good burs and lots of cartridge rolls!.
 

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That is really the way it should be done IMO!!!!

Also during polishing/grinding you can eliminate some stress risers by properly blending certain areas (main web ect.).
Never have been a fan of painting, and prefer good old fashion elbow grease, a die grinder, good burs and lots of cartridge rolls!.

Agree..
 

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