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Gonna be adjusting the valves this weekend. I have a BBC 468, solid roller cam, 12.5-1 compression. I know the motor does ''NOT'' have to be running. I'm adjusting the valves because i'm swaping correct lenght push rods over the too long ones in the motor. I did not build the motor. Steve Anderson from Patton racing engines built it.

The specs need to be at .0026 clearence. Now.....I need to make this adjustment with exhaust stroke closed??? or, open and intake closed/open?? I'm confused here. Not a motor head. Still learning. Bare with me if I've mentioned something wrong.:) Thanks guys.
 

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heal to toe method, then go back and check each valve individually to double check yourself;)


bring it up to #1 tdc(on compression stroke)

adjust intake 1 2 5 7 exhaust 1 3 4 8

turn the motor over by hand 1 full revolution then(cyl 6 firing position):

adjust intake 3 4 6 8 exhuast 2 5 6 7
 

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Did more research on this. Pretty simple. Got the hang of it.

Impatient1-Thanks for the ''heal toe method''.
 

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Did more research on this. Pretty simple. Got the hang of it.

Impatient1-Thanks for the ''heal toe method''.
no prob. on most cams it'll put the lash dead on, its does on my nitrous roller cam, but i always turned the motor and check each valve again after initially setting them just to be 100%. i've never have to readjust after using the method.
 

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Never had to re-adjust after once adjusting?? Really!....I was told to adjust the valves every 3-4 runnings. Maybe that's with a hydrolic rolling cam. So, after this adjsutment I should not have to worry about it anymore? Big thanks to the reply man.
 

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Resident Ford Nut
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Never had to re-adjust after once adjusting?? Really!....I was told to adjust the valves every 3-4 runnings. Maybe that's with a hydrolic rolling cam. So, after this adjsutment I should not have to worry about it anymore? Big thanks to the reply man.
I think he ment the method never let him down..... :)bulb I'm sure he as had to re-adjust from time to time.

Do you have a stud girdle and what type of lock's are you using ? I ran a Jomar for yrs. on the Ford, alway's adjusted "hot" or at least " warm" and they never backed off with the Jomar and Crower lock's.

Sleeper CP :D
 

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I think he ment the method never let him down..... :)bulb I'm sure he as had to re-adjust from time to time.

Do you have a stud girdle and what type of lock's are you using ? I ran a Jomar for yrs. on the Ford, alway's adjusted "hot" or at least " warm" and they never backed off with the Jomar and Crower lock's.

Sleeper CP :D
yeah, what he said :D i check my valves at every oil change and mid summer, i back them off during the winter to give the springs a break so i set lash before every season as well.
 

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It doesnt matter what order you go in just pay attention to what your doing. There is no exact schedule on when to do this. Some race guys do them after every pass. Just keep an eye on them. Checking somewhat regularly kinda tells you what your engine is doing. If they are a tad off no biggie, but if one is way off there might be a bigger problem.


You should warm the motor up before you lash the valves.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Okay so.....warm the motor up? yes or no before the adjustment? I was told, does not matter.

Speaking of checking the clearance, and oil changes. How often are you guys changing your oil? This will be the 3rd time out this sunday with the boat. I checked the oil/level and indicated pretty clean and a bit low. I noticed some oil evacuated from the valve cover breathers last time out. Should I be concerned about that? Maybe a puke tank in the near future? Oil indicator read ADD.

Does high comp, Big block motors tend to burn alot of oil? Just curious.
 

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Okay so.....warm the motor up? yes or no before the adjustment? I was told, does not matter.

Speaking of checking the clearance, and oil changes. How often are you guys changing your oil? This will be the 3rd time out this sunday with the boat. I checked the oil/level and indicated pretty clean and a bit low. I noticed some oil evacuated from the valve cover breathers last time out. Should I be concerned about that? Maybe a puke tank in the near future? Oil indicator read ADD.

Does high comp, Big block motors tend to burn alot of oil? Just curious.
Its personal preference, but my suggestion is to warm the motor up. Just let it idle for 2 mins without reving it if you leave your driveline connected. Run water through the pump and motor obviously .

I have no dipstick and feel no need to every check my oil level. I change about every few trips. It really depends on how hard I run the boat. Don't strees over the oil on the valve covers. A puke tank \ keeps it clean. Again its personal prefference. Im anal and hate to see oil on anything.
 

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new to me

this heal to toe method is new to me. I always turn the motor thru the firing order and do each cylinder when its at the top on compression stroke. can i simply do it like this? of course, mines a FORD, so what will the order be? (learn something every day!)
 

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this heal to toe method is new to me. I always turn the motor thru the firing order and do each cylinder when its at the top on compression stroke. can i simply do it like this? of course, mines a FORD, so what will the order be? (learn something every day!)
Yes, you can do it with the Ford. It's a different order if someone else doesn't post it for you I'll find it when I get home.

I just alway's run through the order so I dont screw up.

Sleeper CP
Big Inch Ford Lover:D
 

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this heal to toe method is new to me. I always turn the motor thru the firing order and do each cylinder when its at the top on compression stroke. can i simply do it like this? of course, mines a FORD, so what will the order be? (learn something every day!)
i've got a heal to toe written down at the house for a bbf ;) i'll try and post it tonite.
 

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i set each one individual just like comp tells to do.but each and to there own i use to do the method tom talks about but i found more accuray in the single method.not saying its a better way just better for me after a 30 pack:)hammers

i set mine each spring and never have to touch them again.i check mine out 2 times during the season and they stay good,adjustment is really gonna depend on the setup you have.later travis:)hand
 

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heal to toe method, then go back and check each valve individually to double check yourself;)


bring it up to #1 tdc(on compression stroke)

adjust intake 1 2 5 7 exhaust 1 3 4 8

turn the motor over by hand 1 full revolution then(cyl 6 firing position):

adjust intake 3 4 6 8 exhuast 2 5 6 7
Did this "half and half" adjustment ONCE on my current 280* duration cam, and had quite a few valves still partly on the ramps when adjusted. Have NOT had good luck this way on anything racier than a very mild stock cam.
When I re-adjusted mine my current way, I "found" about 150 RPM.

I do each cyl by firiing order, 1/4 crankshaft turn at a time, starting with TDC compression #1. Both lifters are fully on the base circle and nowhere near the ramps at TDC ignition point.
 

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Gonna be adjusting the valves this weekend. I have a BBC 468, solid roller cam, 12.5-1 compression. I know the motor does ''NOT'' have to be running. I'm adjusting the valves because i'm swaping correct lenght push rods over the too long ones in the motor. I did not build the motor. Steve Anderson from Patton racing engines built it.

The specs need to be at .0026 clearence. Now.....I need to make this adjustment with exhaust stroke closed??? or, open and intake closed/open?? I'm confused here. Not a motor head. Still learning. Bare with me if I've mentioned something wrong.:) Thanks guys.
Dont you think .0026 is a little tight I dont know maybe its just me.;)
 

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Did this "half and half" adjustment ONCE on my current 280* duration cam, and had quite a few valves still partly on the ramps when adjusted. Have NOT had good luck this way on anything racier than a very mild stock cam.
When I re-adjusted mine my current way, I "found" about 150 RPM.

I do each cyl by firiing order, 1/4 crankshaft turn at a time, starting with TDC compression #1. Both lifters are fully on the base circle and nowhere near the ramps at TDC ignition point.
we're talking solid roller here right? heal to toe works, but i do recommend recheckin the old school way also. i know there's some cams it doesn't work on, very aware of that, i've just never own 1 or installed/adjusted lash on 1 of those cams yet i guess.
 

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Between .0024-.0026 clearence is acceptable. Heard this from 2 High performance engine builders that race drag cars.
don't listen to a internet forum, local gearhead, or machine shop. DO WHAT THE CAM CARD SAYS ;) when in doubt on the hot/cold setting deal, CALL THE CAM MANUFACTURE :D there's no other person that knows more about your cam than the person/company who grinds it;)

i check my lash so often just for the looksy into the motor. man, retainers crack/lash caps, locks split/springs break, etc. etc. etc. my grandpa used to say "the faster you spin em, the faster the damn thing is gonna wear out". that's truth, motors spinning twice the rpms they would in a car, wear out that much faster and need regular attention.
 

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.0024 is not the same as .024 :)bulb

.0024-.0026 must be an ultra tight lash cam :)bulb:)bulb

Sleeper CP :D
 
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