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· Premium Member
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was hopeing to keep my classic Mickey Thompsom valve covers...but with the expected delivery of my Jomar stud girdles and taller poly locks I knew I had to get some quality 1.50 spacers. @ $119.95 :))eek:))

Question...will the spacers be a PITA with trying to keep the oil leaks away or ahould I just send them back to Summit and get me some tall billet 3 &13/16 covers?
 

· Living in a cage of fear
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Was hopeing to keep my classic Mickey Thompsom valve covers...but with the expected delivery of my Jomar stud girdles and taller poly locks I knew I had to get some quality 1.50 spacers. @ $119.95 :))eek:))

Question...will the spacers be a PITA with trying to keep the oil leaks away or ahould I just send them back to Summit and get me some tall billet 3 &13/16 covers?

Those are cool valve covers, it would be great to keep them.

I ran spacers before with out leaks, but I used these gaskets: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FPP-1630/

Also used long 1/4" studs and nuts to go through the spacer and vc instead of bolts.
It was OK.
 

· E-7 Sheepdog (ret)
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I'd Copper Coat the gaskets, perhaps not to the head, but to the valve cover and the spacer (both sides).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Good advice...how about contact/rubber cementing the spacer to the valve cover w/gasket to act as one piece?
I'll use some 1/4x20 stainless all-thread and make up studs to exit the head.
 

· Seriously off center
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Black elephant snot (3M super weatherstrip adhesive) on the vc and bottom of the spacer with studs. Wait until it just sets and the gaskets don't shift . Snug the nuts down and let sit an hour, and then finish tighten.
 

· Living in a cage of fear
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Black elephant snot (3M super weatherstrip adhesive) on the vc and bottom of the spacer with studs. Wait until it just sets and the gaskets don't shift . Snug the nuts down and let sit an hour, and then finish tighten.
X2.

I wouldn't try to glue it into one piece.
 

· Living in a cage of fear
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Oh, and I prefer cork (I guess I'm just old school), but if you are in adjusting often, cork on the bottom, rubber on top.
Me too. Did you see the link I put up earlier? I like the double cork with the metal in the middle. They slide on like a shim and dont distort at all. Spendy though.:mad:
 

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i picked up a set of Moroso blue silicony VC gaskets...I new they'd be good when it took me a good 5 minutes to get the 2 of them unstuck when I got them out of the package.

I've run spacers before, and they work as well as the gaskets you use.
 

· Seriously off center
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Me too. Did you see the link I put up earlier? I like the double cork with the metal in the middle. They slide on like a shim and dont distort at all. Spendy though.:mad:
Most of my customers are looking for an original look, and those gaskets are cool and all, but 2 sets will break the bank! Straight cork will work well with a non-adjustable valvetrain, but cork on the bottom (where leaking is the biggest concern), and rubber on the top works well when the covers come off off for adjustments.
 

· Living in a cage of fear
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Most of my customers are looking for an original look, and those gaskets are cool and all, but 2 sets will break the bank! Straight cork will work well with a non-adjustable valvetrain, but cork on the bottom (where leaking is the biggest concern), and rubber on the top works well when the covers come off off for adjustments.

Noted!:D
 

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On mine I used the gray Ford RTV on the head to spacer and rubber gasket spacer to valve cover, if you have ever tried seperating anything that this stuff has held together you will use it too.
 

· E-7 Sheepdog (ret)
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Most of my customers are looking for an original look, and those gaskets are cool and all, but 2 sets will break the bank! Straight cork will work well with a non-adjustable valvetrain, but cork on the bottom (where leaking is the biggest concern), and rubber on the top works well when the covers come off off for adjustments.
Since I run a hydraulic valvetrain, I don't open my M/T's every week to adjust anything, but in the 4 years since the engine build, they have been off at least 7 or 8 times, several for 1st year valve adjustments, then to replace rockers as RPM overstressed the stockers and roller's went in 2 years later, a coupel valve adjustments, then the head porting, subsequent 1 or 2 valve adjustments.

I put Coper Coat on the Fel-Pro cork gaskets, both sides, let it set up good before install, and they do not leak.

Had to ditch the studs behind the TT headers and go back to bolts, tall studs along the intake, been easy to keep tight.
 

· E-7 Sheepdog (ret)
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M/T ftw!

thats jacked what they did to him. RIP!

Those are just like mine. I had no trouble clearing Poly-locks, but, don't need a girdle.

I like them, a lot.
 

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329 Posts
Was hopeing to keep my classic Mickey Thompsom valve covers...but with the expected delivery of my Jomar stud girdles and taller poly locks I knew I had to get some quality 1.50 spacers. @ $119.95 :))eek:))

Question...will the spacers be a PITA with trying to keep the oil leaks away or ahould I just send them back to Summit and get me some tall billet 3 &13/16 covers?
In advance sorry for the thread jack :D Any one know where I can get a scoop like this???:)devil:)devil:)devil
 

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Was hopeing to keep my classic Mickey Thompsom valve covers...but with the expected delivery of my Jomar stud girdles and taller poly locks I knew I had to get some quality 1.50 spacers. @ $119.95 :))eek:))

Question...will the spacers be a PITA with trying to keep the oil leaks away or ahould I just send them back to Summit and get me some tall billet 3 &13/16 covers?
gotta keep the m.t. valve covers. never seen a set that come close to looking as good. Plus they are good for at least 25 hp :D
 

· senior member
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i have the m/t style with a spacer & run stud girdle . dave at gt boats had a real thin paperlike gasket for the bottom of the spacer & i sealed it to the head . then i just use a rubber gasket on top with ss studs made out of all-thread also.when you ck. the valves or add oil it doesn't over flow with the spacer bonded to the head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
i have the m/t style with a spacer & run stud girdle . dave at gt boats had a real thin paperlike gasket for the bottom of the spacer & i sealed it to the head . then i just use a rubber gasket on top with ss studs made out of all-thread also.when you ck. the valves or add oil it doesn't over flow with the spacer bonded to the head.
I'm thinking the same as above...make the spacer hold tight to the head, and have the VC removable for any inspections/winterizing etc.
Maybe bond cork to the bottom spacer and head surface w/ rubber on the VC.
Well...it sounds like a good plan anyhow...I'll have more oil leaks then the Exon Valdez :D
 
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