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Discussion Starter #1
so bought boat end of last summer with a 460. 1/2 hour out water in oil! I had screwed up with hose on motor,kind of swamped the back of the boat ,thought those could have caused it ,changed the oil,tried it again,still had water in oil as well as some other problems.pulled engine ,made some changes to set ,cam & intake .put the boat in the river to breakin the cam 20min @ 2000 on the trailer,10 min on the river up to about 4000-4500 rpm .....coffee milkshake for oil:)st:)st
I've search this site on this topic possiblities seem to be crack ,wrong angle on intake to head, headers.
any suggestions,tests before pulling this thing out again. Thanks :confused:
 

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so bought boat end of last summer with a 460. 1/2 hour out water in oil! I had screwed up with hose on motor,kind of swamped the back of the boat ,thought those could have caused it ,changed the oil,tried it again,still had water in oil as well as some other problems.pulled engine ,made some changes to set ,cam & intake .put the boat in the river to breakin the cam 20min @ 2000 on the trailer,10 min on the river up to about 4000-4500 rpm .....coffee milkshake for oil:)st:)st
I've search this site on this topic possiblities seem to be crack ,wrong angle on intake to head, headers.
any suggestions,tests before pulling this thing out again. Thanks :confused:

Bassett T stuck open? What RPM is water coming out of the exhaust?

How big is your cam? Big cams can cause water to be sucked back into the combustion chamber.

How is your system plummed?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I checked the bassett valve as I assembled things ,it seemed ok. there was alot of steam when fired up .I can post pic,s & vid if it will help. I'll check the valve again.
comp 280 h cam ,not huge
 

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Discussion Starter #4




1st pic is 2000 rpm after bout 2min
2 pic is after 15 min @ 2000 then idling out to river
bear in mind it's a cool day maybe like 8-10 degrees c.
 

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i know u might not want to hear this, but, is it possible that u cracked a head on the side that the steam is comming out of?...thats some mighty cold water! :)...worth looking into...just sayin'

FastRat
 

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Looks like both sides Ron....

i know u might not want to hear this, but, is it possible that u cracked a head on the side that the steam is comming out of?...thats some mighty cold water! :)...worth looking into...just sayin'

FastRat
It looks like the steam is coming from both sides Ron. Cam overlap/reversion won't usually put water in the oil. It WILL hydro a cylinder or two, but if there was enough water to get past the rings while running it would foul the plugs and quit about the same time it bent a few rods. I would suggest......If the headers aren't real pretty, disconnect the water all together and run them dry. If you're still getting stream you have bigger problems. Cylinder head cracks, (yes multiple cracks per head), or two blown head gaskets. It is NOT unusual for a "seller" to demonstrate the engine on the trailer, DRY. It doesn't take long to fry the heads in the chamber areas. Chamber temps are VERY hot, and without the heat transfer to the water jackets, they crack quite quickly. Did you see the boat ON the water prior to purchase? Or did the seller fire it on the trailer and take your money?......So, change the oil and filter again, re route the header water over board, and see if you're still getting steam. IF you're really LUCKY, you'll get no steam and pin point the issue to the header reversion theory.....Wishful thinking I'm afraid. Do you get any liquid water dribbling out the headers at idle? That much steam IS possible in very cold weather, but excess header water won't steam that much without dribbling liquid water along with the steam...Too LITTLE water will create a lot of steam, but not that much, and since you're polluting the oil you have a lot of water where it doesn't belong. (cracked block/head, or two very blown head gaskets. Intake mis alignment will pollute the oil, but not make steam.) Again, did you see the boat run on the water? or on the trailer? If on the trailer, was there water running through the engine? And how many other "buyers" were there ahead of you?.....Sorry for the long reply........But it aint looking good.......Ray
 

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so bought boat end of last summer with a 460. 1/2 hour out water in oil! I had screwed up with hose on motor,kind of swamped the back of the boat ,thought those could have caused it ,changed the oil,tried it again,still had water in oil as well as some other problems.pulled engine ,made some changes to set ,cam & intake .put the boat in the river to breakin the cam 20min @ 2000 on the trailer,10 min on the river up to about 4000-4500 rpm .....coffee milkshake for oil:)st:)st
I've search this site on this topic possiblities seem to be crack ,wrong angle on intake to head, headers.
any suggestions,tests before pulling this thing out again. Thanks :confused:
Your avatar is steaming up my windows:D

Moneypit nailed it block the water to the headers first and get a definite mark on the oil level and run it for a while, is the motor getting any temp at all?....I have always made my own ball and spring for the t-valve the stock one opens too soon IMHO. Havent run one for years maybe they are better now, with a big solid cam had reversion issues. This thread has everything you need.
http://www.performanceboats.com//showthread.php?t=52724
 

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Assemble up an air pressure regulator with a valve and connect it to the engines cooling system and pressure test it in the garage. If it doesn't hold air then you can listen for air leaks. The engine should be able to hold 30# over night. Figure out those leaks before you go to the water.

I made a pressure test setup years ago and use it on the engine, intercooler, fuel system, calibrate MAP sensors, etc.
 

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so bought boat end of last summer with a 460. 1/2 hour out water in oil! I had screwed up with hose on motor,kind of swamped the back of the boat ,thought those could have caused it ,changed the oil,tried it again,still had water in oil as well as some other problems.pulled engine ,made some changes to set ,cam & intake .put the boat in the river to breakin the cam 20min @ 2000 on the trailer,10 min on the river up to about 4000-4500 rpm .....coffee milkshake for oil:)st:)st
I've search this site on this topic possiblities seem to be crack ,wrong angle on intake to head, headers.
any suggestions,tests before pulling this thing out again. Thanks :confused:
Same thing happen to me with a so called turn key boat, had a blown head gasket.
 

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What did you use to seal the manifold water ports to the intake? Regular RTV doesn't do well in my experience. Get some 3M weatherstrip adhesive(sticky messy yellow stuff) and put a clean bead on both sides of the intake gaskets around the water ports. If you cant find the 3m stuff, keep looking, other products I have used didn't work nearly as well.

Assuming this is a jet, you need to set the pressure coming off the pump into the motor. Put a valve at the intake manifold(t-stat location works well.)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks 4 the help guys. its is a jet .I got an ajustable new blow off for the water system(old one had a broken spring),hadn't quite dialed it in ,buddy say's @ 4000 = 20 psi,little high I think.
I did buy it on the trailer,off ebay,:)Unsure:)hammers .
the headers are in good shape.I thought about running them with no water,don't want to cook them.
I had placed a thread about the headers getting to hot on the hose a bit back. I closed the out valve about 40 %,thats how it was in the river.
ehgine got no temp on the gauge at all yesterday.so I think i should change the oil ,open the exhaust valve up,close the intake 40%,reduce the pressure &try that.:)eh:)
head gaskets are new,no sealer on intake gaskets (maybe I should fix that before I try it).heads were gone through by local engine shop (not magnafluxed)
 

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:D i'd shut the headers off, its wintertime:)bulb the air will keep em fine for awhile, and you need some heat in the block to burn away any condensation sweat, otherwise its gonna keep looking milky. this thing gotta pcv valve on it?
 

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Any time you have heads worked on that your not sure of have them pressure tested . I would not even have them magnafluxed because that just checks the deck. a pressure test will check the hole head.
I had a set of ford heads magnafluxed and they looked good so i had them built buy the same shop . put them on and WTF i keep having watter issues . after changing everything that it could of been but the heads and block i took the heads to a shop that could pressure test them and sure enough a crack the magnaflux test did not find.
SO if you take the heads off pay the extra cash and have them pressure tested. Its 2 or 3 times more than having them magnafluxed because of the labor involved .
 

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Discussion Starter #18
If this motor comes out again ,it won't go back in till I find the prob! I convinced myself last time that it was something I did with the hose. I like the idea of hanging the motor,pulling the pan & pressurizing the water system. When I got this boat the guy told me it had fresh oil:rolleyes: .I'm gonna look at the tee valve again. can I run this with diesel to clean it out & is the diesel oil or fuel:)Unsure:)Unsure
 
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