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Discussion Starter #1
Input wanted/needed,
I'm running a little over 500 ci BBC with a 6-71 11.7 over @ 10/11lbs @ 6000rpm. Recently Ive noticed a lot of water in the oil. I do have a pressure valve on the inlet of the pump and yet my valve covers look like mayonnaise under them after 3 passes. The block is O ringed with receiver groves in the heads. Heads are aluminum. Motor isn't loosing any power at all, nor is there any sign of a miss. Plugs are all uniform. I'm going to tear into it this weekend and was wondering someone else thoughts of what the problem might be. I'm hoping its the intake gasket but not sure. The block is a tall deck with spacers for the manifold. The spacers are drilled and tapped to the head so I don't think that is the issue here. Any thoughts?? Thanks in advance.
 

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Sure it has water "in" the oil and not just a lot of condensation?

If you did not get the oil up to temps high enough to boil off the moisture and ran it hard a few times then shut it off, the water will rise to the high point in the engine and condense, making a gloppy mess, but just in the top end....

Pictures?
 

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you could always change the oil and run it again and get it nice and hot to make sure its not condensation. When my 455 was getting milky oil we changed it out with some used oil for testing... ended up having a cracked block anyways but we thought we lucked out by getting rid of the 'turkey pan' type gasket on the intake. Donno if the 500 chevy has one of those or not but Id look into it.
 

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Input wanted/needed,
I'm running a little over 500 ci BBC with a 6-71 11.7 over @ 10/11lbs @ 6000rpm. Recently Ive noticed a lot of water in the oil. I do have a pressure valve on the inlet of the pump and yet my valve covers look like mayonnaise under them after 3 passes. The block is O ringed with receiver groves in the heads. Heads are aluminum. Motor isn't loosing any power at all, nor is there any sign of a miss. Plugs are all uniform. I'm going to tear into it this weekend and was wondering someone else thoughts of what the problem might be. I'm hoping its the intake gasket but not sure. The block is a tall deck with spacers for the manifold. The spacers are drilled and tapped to the head so I don't think that is the issue here. Any thoughts?? Thanks in advance.
What do you have for crank case breathers and where are they on the covers ? Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #7
First of all let me say thank you to all the input, greatly appreciated. I will attempt to answer the questions.
GTjets,
No not completly sure. but it seams to be fill up and puking white oil everywhere.

GA jet,
I did that and it is looking bad.. look at the pic of the valve cove thats fresh oil with 3 passes at 3/4 throttle.

Last Mohican,
Yea it seams to raise a little bit. I loose a lot out the puke tank and th
e distributor hold down

Green,
Im at a loss get over here and help me with this thing. Aug, is coming quick. And bring some of misses greens biscuits and gravy.

Tom ( JBP)
Ive got some burn down breathers with a -16 line to a IMCO puke take as for position of breathers check out photo of valve covers. I know they should be a little farther forward but thats where they are till I get some new covers......whatcha got for me????? Thanks bud

The pic of the milk jug has been sitting for a week!! Thats 1 of 2 and 1/2 can I say [email protected]#KKKKKKKKKKKKKK :angry:
 

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This has happened to me twice, the first time the head eroded around the stud and the next time watter was seeping past the studs (factory block). I switched to a bowtie block with blind tapped studs.
 

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AKA OhOneWS6
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Im at a loss get over here and help me with this thing. Aug, is coming quick. And bring some of misses greens biscuits and gravy.

The pic of the milk jug has been sitting for a week!! Thats 1 of 2 and 1/2 can I say [email protected]#KKKKKKKKKKKKKK :angry:
From the look of that milk jug you already have the gravy. :EEK:
 

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Highaboosta
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After having some water leak issues several years ago I made up a pressure test setup.
The air line hooks to a ball valve, a regulator, a pressure gauge and then to the block or whatever you want to test.

I use it all the time and it's easy to pinpoint a small leak. I use it to pressure test individual lines, wastegate operation, and intercooler cores also.

It's a lot easier to test them with air than water.
 

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X2 on the Houston you have a problem......That is way too much water to be condensation unless you are running alcohol way to fat....

Three areas to check...

Intake manifold ends, head gaskets, head bolts/studs...

If not there, then it gets ugly....Cylinder, cracked head, valve guide area over ported, broken intake manifold, block valve galley...Just to name a few.:)st

Good luck and hope it is a $20 gasket on the top end...;)
 

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Man thats a lot of water. Did this problem just develop or is it a fresh build? How much pressure are you putting to this thing? With stock gaskets I don't think there is a need to go over 15-18 psi. If you dont have a water pressure gauge, Think about getting one. Of all the gauges I have on my deal, it gets the most attention next to the oil pressure. It is very helpful in identifying a clogged pump, or a leak.

Id start pulling the top end off. If when you take the manifold off, it becomes obvious that one of the water ports is leaking badly, you can decide to stop then, or proceed to pulling the heads too. While its apart, inspect the bores for signs of leakage/cracks or worse. If you take the heads off, clean and reseal the bolts/studs assuming this is a factory block without blind bolt holes.
 

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After having some water leak issues several years ago I made up a pressure test setup.
The air line hooks to a ball valve, a regulator, a pressure gauge and then to the block or whatever you want to test.

I use it all the time and it's easy to pinpoint a small leak. I use it to pressure test individual lines, wastegate operation, and intercooler cores also.

It's a lot easier to test them with air than water.
I want a pic Mark I need one of those
 

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Discussion Starter #16
After careful die-section to the top end it is obvious that the intake gaskets were leaking (Pretty bad). Also compression test showed all cylinders are holding. Although another problem has developed. Im running a tall deck with spacers. seams the distributor is binding against the manifold and causing abnormal wear of the gear. I had a composite gear that was pretty chewed up. I believe the geometry is off because of clearance issue with the manifold being 3/8" taller then normal due to the spacers. Is the manifold taller with a tall deck or just spread out? I do know that the dimensions between a std and tall deck distributor are the same, given the slip collar makes up the deference. So if the standard tall deck manifold is the same thickness as a regular deck my distributor geometry is off...right??? Or am I crazy..
 

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After careful die-section to the top end it is obvious that the intake gaskets were leaking (Pretty bad). Also compression test showed all cylinders are holding. Although another problem has developed. Im running a tall deck with spacers. seams the distributor is binding against the manifold and causing abnormal wear of the gear. I had a composite gear that was pretty chewed up. I believe the geometry is off because of clearance issue with the manifold being 3/8" taller then normal due to the spacers. Is the manifold taller with a tall deck or just spread out? I do know that the dimensions between a std and tall deck distributor are the same, given the slip collar makes up the deference. So if the standard tall deck manifold is the same thickness as a regular deck my distributor geometry is off...right??? Or am I crazy..
The slip collar makes up any vertical distance but you need to make sure it's not sitting too deep or too high, or off center. I think there's a DART manifold for a talldeck so you won't need spacers and it has a recessed hole so you can use a standard distributor with no slip collar.
 

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Highaboosta
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Setting that dist slip collar accurately can be quite time consuming.
Getting the dist gear near the center of the cam gear as well as having proper engagement on the pump driveshaft is critical.
Once I got those right I still needed to bevel the bottom of the dist housing just above the gear to get it to sit in the proper place.

Here's my pressure checking setup,
 
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