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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys im new to the boat scene and im getting ready to drop my engine in and i have a few questions about the water pluming. It has a 557 ford with bassett thru transom headers and a berkley jg jet pump. According to basset i just need a ball valve coming from the jet (also i know i need to plum in the basset valve for the injection lines and install a ball valve coming out of the engine to set what rpm the injection lines supply water to the headers) to regulate how much flow or pressure? Is going to the engine. I have heard on this forum about some people putting in a water pressure regulator and setting it at 10 psi so i dont have to worry about putting to much water pressure to the block. Would this method be better than using the old style ball valve setup???
 

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You may want to try a search. This has been hashed out quite a bit. I'd throw a pres gauge on there and see if you even need to worry about it. Some guys will tell you to keep it simple(gate valves), some will tell you to get a regulator,some a pressure relief valve, some will say banderlog,ect,ect,ect. Fwiw to plumb it like bassett says the second gate valve goes on the dump line. The more you shut it the sooner(in the rpm range) the headers will get wet. Edit: Ooops I almost left the 4 port thermostat guys out.lol
 

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Here is what I was told to use and it works great. Alot!!!!! of boats run these.




 

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Discussion Starter #4
How would you even begin to plum that. It looks like in your pictures that from the jet you have both the block and thermostat plummed together. Which doesnt makes sense to me because the block should be the in and the thermostat is the out, so it can circulate
 

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How would you even begin to plum that. It looks like in your pictures that from the jet you have both the block and thermostat plummed together. Which doesnt makes sense to me because the block should be the in and the thermostat is the out, so it can circulate
This will help explain it to ya.

http://www.rexmar.com/page160.html
 

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set-up is looking good 4trax.

mine has two lines going to block through manifold then to housing. one line going outboard and one going to headers.

 

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Here's my setup in my Kona. 2 -10's in & 2 -10's out off the
thermostat & a Moroso valve (green) w/ a RPM switch to supply
the header water @ 2000 rpm's. Works awesome....
 

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Here's my setup in my Kona. 2 -10's in & 2 -10's out off the
thermostat & a Moroso valve (green) w/ a RPM switch to supply
the header water @ 2000 rpm's. Works awesome....
Do you have any more pics of boat and plumbing?
 

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The Moroso valve was around $100 & the RPM switch around $45.
I got them thru Summit. When you consider the cost of the
Banderlog & HEI converter, over $300, this was a no-brainer!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks everyone for all your input. I think i found my solution. Im gona run a electric water controler and a pressure regulator just to be safe. I dont really want to pinch pennies on the water setup and ruin a $11,000.00 engine setup because i didnt wana spend another $300.00
 

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Thanks everyone for all your input. I think i found my solution. Im gona run a electric water controler and a pressure regulator just to be safe. I dont really want to pinch pennies on the water setup and ruin a $11,000.00 engine setup because i didnt wana spend another $300.00
Good luck with the electrical setup. Kinda like automatic locking hubs VS Manual locking hubs. No comparison.;)
 

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The auto water injection setup's are really nice! Just make sure you
put a shutoff valve in-line in case something goes wrong. Oh, & if you
have a descent size cam don't try injecting @ 1500rpm's, set it @ 2000.
The pressure regulator 4trax showed is the same one I'm using also, it
works good. You can get it at McMastercarr.com. Good luck & have fun
plumbing. Also, post some pics when you get a chance!
 

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This is what alot of people run.



Header Water Pressure T-Valve

This valve is a must in all water injected headers It is designed to eliminate water flow at an idle while providing water flow under increased rpm's All three connections of the valve are -8AN
 

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This is what alot of people run.



Header Water Pressure T-Valve

This valve is a must in all water injected headers It is designed to eliminate water flow at an idle while providing water flow under increased rpm's All three connections of the valve are -8AN
Those also work great when pluming the water inlets on the engine. Remove the ball and spring and place it in the hose coming from the pump to the engine. Then use the 2 outlets to run one to each side of the block inlets.
 

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