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can anyone pls tell me if it is necessary to have a pressure release valve in between the pump and engine. any info would be great thanks
I would not say necessary unless you have a system requireing it. A dump line is normally needed if you have a header system with a control valve.

If you have a log type exhaust system you can normally get by without any controls with the exeption of a gate valve at the pump, regulated by the need for cooling water......

Hope I didn't confuse you more, if you have some details about your system, these guys will beat it into the ground and you will have to "read between the lines" :D

GT :)hand
 

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Glendale Arizona
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can anyone pls tell me if it is necessery to have a pressure release valve in between the pump and engine. any info would be great thanks
I ran mine for years without one and it was fine. When I bought the used boat I'm running now, it came with one (Watts bypass) in a box of parts and I figured what the hey and cut it in. It works fine, but like I said...........it always worked fine before that too.

On paper it seems like a good idea. Considering how much pressure your pump is capable of putting out, and how little pressure it takes to cool your motor it seems to make sense to have one and be able to control/regulate that pressure in some way.
 

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I'm No Expert
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I cant say if they are always required, but i can easily peg my 35 PSI guage on my dash when my regulator is not set correctly. I run a regulator and try to keep the water around 25PSI at WOT.

I dont know if this is causing your head gaskets to go, i would think other gaskets would go before those, but i'm no expert. My guess would be that if your blowing head gaskets it's probably cuz your surfaces are not straight... either the block deck or head surface. Again i'm no expert.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I cant say if they are always required, but i can easily peg my 35 PSI guage on my dash when my regulator is not set correctly. I run a regulator and try to keep the water around 25PSI at WOT.

I dont know if this is causing your head gaskets to go, i would think other gaskets would go before those, but i'm no expert. My guess would be that if your blowing head gaskets it's probably cuz your surfaces are not straight... either the block deck or head surface. Again i'm no expert.
Im sorry i meant intake gasket not head
 

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I'm No Expert
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Im sorry i meant intake gasket not head
ah, well ya, could be! What intake gaskets you using? I was using felpro gaskets for a while, they seam like a real poor design. I switched over to the cometic gaskets on my new mill and they, to me, feel more solid and like they will stay in place and not slip out into the valley (problem i was having before).

Gotta ask this too... how old is this manifold?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Intake isnt really that old .i used the felpro gaskets on it though the ones with the cord or bead or whatever in them suppose to be the ''better'' felpros at least thats what my guy told me at the speed shop said
 

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Sit N' Spin
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Are you running the water fully on from the pump? If so, turn the water down with the valve at the pump if you have one. If you don't have one, get one (HIGHLY RECOMMENDED so you can shut the cooling water off in the event that you break a hose clamp and blow a hose off so you don't sink your shizz).

On boats with a traditional cooling system (i.e. no thermostat), adjust it so that the engine temp is at 160-170* at an idle. At this setting you should be far from overpressuring your gaskets.
 

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i dont have a valve on the pump side just on the side that exits the engine
IMO that is your prob. you are adjusting your press after the motor, try it on the inlet, you then can control press. into the motor not restricking the out flow. With it on the out flow side of the motor any rise in press will be behind your valve that can cause gasket to fail. just my 02 cts.:)devil
 

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i dont have a valve on the pump side just on the side that exits the engine

Totally BassAckwards IMHO, get a gate valve and install it off the pump water port, I think mine runs at like two full turns open on a six turn valve....I tightened the packing down so it wont move around...

Should fix all your woes...I dont see a value in the valve leaving the engine BTW.

GT :)hand
 

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This threads going to go all over the place here real quick, just like all the ones do regarding plumbing and pressure and whatever...

You need to be able to see how much pressure your getting in your block, go out and get a water pressure guage, and sombody with you who can read it while on a WOT pass.

From there you can figure out what you need to do, No more pressure than 25 PSI at WOT (i see spikes to 30 but when hooked up, it stays at 25).

As for the gate valve on the dump, get ride of it, the only gate valve i run is right off the pump, it allows me to shut off the water in case i bust a line, other than that, it stays fully open!
 

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Sit N' Spin
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He basically has nothing restricting inflow from the pump, 1 main dumpline, and a gate valve in that dump line. Like GT mentioned above, reverse it with the valve at the pump.
 

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in the old days

In the old days--- You put a gate valve on the intake and exhaust or dump side. You controlled engine temp by playing with the valve settings till you got a constant even temp. No body had a water pressure guage. I had trouble with leaking copper head gaskets and tried several rememdys. None worked. I installed a Pressure bypass not a pressure regulator and all my problems went away.
 

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Sit N' Spin
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In the old days--- You put a gate valve on the intake and exhaust or dump side. You controlled engine temp by playing with the valve settings till you got a constant even temp. No body had a water pressure guage. I had trouble with leaking copper head gaskets and tried several rememdys. None worked. I installed a Pressure bypass not a pressure regulator and all my problems went away.
I've heard of this being done as well. However, on his setup there was no valve at all on the pump to restrict the inflow. With a valve on only the dump, that would for sure blow gaskets if it were closed down far enough.

My t-stat setup is similar, but instead of the gate valve on the exit side, my "exit gate valve" is a thermostat.
 
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