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"BEER BUDGET RACING"
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm running a 4* wedge and a straight snoot. I'm going to take it out and try a 2*. I have a few questions:

In theory this should put more down angle on the nozzle and help it launch harder? yes/no?

Then once set it should lower the thrust angle and lift, helping the hull run dryer? yes/no?

If this helps the fat girl pick up some I'll take the wedge out all together and see what happens.

 

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do you have a inducer?

In theory this should put more down angle on the nozzle and help it launch harder? yes/no? -trial and error kind of deal. but an inducer would help with a holeshot. i had a droop with 2* wedge down on my old daytona. after some head work, it launched hard and straight.

Then once set it should lower the thrust angle and lift, helping the hull run dryer? yes/no? -it should
 

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you have the snoot wedged up? do you have a place diverter or just a nozzle? what's the pin to pin angle of the snoot?
 

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"BEER BUDGET RACING"
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Discussion Starter #4
sorry guys, can't post from my phone anymore for some reason???


Yuma, yes i put an inducer in it over the winter, it helped out a bunch!

BP, yeah there is a 4* wedge between the bowl and the snoot with the fat side down. I do have a place diverter, and i'm not sure of the pin angle on the snoot. If i had to guess, I would say its whatever the "standard" is.

Maybe this pic will help.
 

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I would probley take it out all together and see what it will do . Then try the 2* and then try to flip it and see what it will do :D Never know till you try it ;)
 

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sorry guys, can't post from my phone anymore for some reason???


Yuma, yes i put an inducer in it over the winter, it helped out a bunch!

BP, yeah there is a 4* wedge between the bowl and the snoot with the fat side down. I do have a place diverter, and i'm not sure of the pin angle on the snoot. If i had to guess, I would say its whatever the "standard" is.

Maybe this pic will help.
a profile would be better. take a straight edge, hold it up to the bottom of the plate extended back past the nozzle, and make sure nothing will be dragging in the water when you remove the wedge(s). generally, the intake is set in the boat that will leave the pump angle at 4 degrees down. the standard snoot is 4* up angle, so it's back to zero compared to keel. so if you had an r nozzle, or stand ard nozzle, adding a 4* "up" wedge leaves the nozzle at 4* up compared to keel. about; you would need to check all that.

but you have place diverter which allows you to set nozzle angle anywhere. if you were to remove the wedge, or wedge it down (keeping the nozzle above the plate angle), you lower thrust centerline, which can help get the boat on top at a lower speed than what it does with 4* up.

the worst you can do is try it and find out if it works better or worse. i run a droop and i'll change the wedge from 2* up (slow) to 3* down (fast) as an adjustment to quicken the boat up or slow it down, depending on where i'm running. the worst thing that can happen is that, at top speed, you'll feel he boat get "too loose", moving around too much on the water. if the boat does that, slow down and raise thrust centerline, maybe 1* at a time, until it remains stable at top speed.... it's also helpful if you know exactly what you're nozzle angle is with the p/d...
 

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"BEER BUDGET RACING"
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Discussion Starter #7
a profile would be better. take a straight edge, hold it up to the bottom of the plate extended back past the nozzle, and make sure nothing will be dragging in the water when you remove the wedge(s). generally, the intake is set in the boat that will leave the pump angle at 4 degrees down. the standard snoot is 4* up angle, so it's back to zero compared to keel. so if you had an r nozzle, or stand ard nozzle, adding a 4* "up" wedge leaves the nozzle at 4* up compared to keel. about; you would need to check all that.

but you have place diverter which allows you to set nozzle angle anywhere. if you were to remove the wedge, or wedge it down (keeping the nozzle above the plate angle), you lower thrust centerline, which can help get the boat on top at a lower speed than what it does with 4* up.

the worst you can do is try it and find out if it works better or worse. i run a droop and i'll change the wedge from 2* up (slow) to 3* down (fast) as an adjustment to quicken the boat up or slow it down, depending on where i'm running. the worst thing that can happen is that, at top speed, you'll feel he boat get "too loose", moving around too much on the water. if the boat does that, slow down and raise thrust centerline, maybe 1* at a time, until it remains stable at top speed.... it's also helpful if you know exactly what you're nozzle angle is with the p/d...
OK, I'm going to put it all together to night and take those measurements. It wont be till the weekend before I can test it. I also drilled and tapped my suction houseing to get intake pressures, but thats for another thread.:)grn
 

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To check your pin angle on the snoot! Take a tape and see how long the snoot is from flange to bottom hole leading edge! Then check the top length if the same you have a 0* If the top is slightly shorter you have the 4* pin angle! By the looks in the pic. I think you have the 0* snoot!

If it is the 4* pin then I would try it heads up and see what it does then you may want to pitch it down 2* JMO!
 

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"BEER BUDGET RACING"
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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Wow 2* is alot. It doesnt look like much but once you get out there to the nozzle its a couple inches of down. I'm still above the plate, I took all the measurements like Bp said. Widetrack it is a 0* snoot. I dont think I could have just flipped my 4*.
 

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B1 Racing
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On something like this I'd be more concerned about the diverter settings or angles on the launch than the wedge, wedges are fine tuning for thrust height. Try it with different amounts of down off the launch, 3 degrees down for example till the boat is up and going then give it some up in the diverter. Once you get a starting point that's sorta working then fine tune the amount of down, how long you wait to give it up nozzle and how much up nozzle. This is the name of the game with the race boats that leave from a dead stop with a diverter, no different with the lake guys.

Watch Pattymelts boat leave and that's what you want. We've been tweaking on it all year and it's deadly the way it leaves, the 2 most important things are running the least amount of down possible and when to hit the up. If you a measure a diverter at full down it's not uncommon to 15 degrees of down, that's way too much and eats up way too much time with the hyd. Unit to get to full up.
 

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"BEER BUDGET RACING"
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Discussion Starter #11
On something like this I'd be more concerned about the diverter settings or angles on the launch than the wedge, wedges are fine tuning for thrust height. Try it with different amounts of down off the launch, 3 degrees down for example till the boat is up and going then give it some up in the diverter. Once you get a starting point that's sorta working then fine tune the amount of down, how long you wait to give it up nozzle and how much up nozzle. This is the name of the game with the race boats that leave from a dead stop with a diverter, no different with the lake guys.

Watch Pattymelts boat leave and that's what you want. We've been tweaking on it all year and it's deadly the way it leaves, the 2 most important things are running the least amount of down possible and when to hit the up. If you a measure a diverter at full down it's not uncommon to 15 degrees of down, that's way too much and eats up way too much time with the hyd. Unit to get to full up.
I've been playing with that, I've been leaving with the diverter all the way down, and going to level about the time the nose startes to set down. I'm thinking now that I have lowered the thrust angle a little I should be able to leave with the diverter level and maybe go one click up once it sets.

I was really kinda looking for more stern lift, it would seem like my hull is running pretty wet for a tunnel. I dont think it will ever run as dry as yours CS due to the keel. Plus I'm just experimenting, would like it to be as nasty as it can be without dropping a bunch of coil to get it to the next level. Plus I'm trying to learn a little, this is my first jet boat.

The intake pressure readings are probably going to tell the tell. I'm real curious to see what those are.
 

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Wow 2* is alot. It doesnt look like much but once you get out there to the nozzle its a couple inches of down. I'm still above the plate, I took all the measurements like Bp said. Widetrack it is a 0* snoot. I dont think I could have just flipped my 4*.
correction; standard snoot is 0*, odd one is 4*.

as cs noted, the next thing is to dial in your nozzle angle. you might want to add an up stop and a down stop, so you know exactly where you have the down (launch) angle set, as well as the up (running) nozzle angle. once you know what those are, you can wedge up or down, reset the nozzle angles to what they were, and go.
you may want to get a 1* wedge, just to experiment with.
 

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"BEER BUDGET RACING"
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Discussion Starter #13
correction; standard snoot is 0*, odd one is 4*.

as cs noted, the next thing is to dial in your nozzle angle. you might want to add an up stop and a down stop, so you know exactly where you have the down (launch) angle set, as well as the up (running) nozzle angle. once you know what those are, you can wedge up or down, reset the nozzle angles to what they were, and go.
you may want to get a 1* wedge, just to experiment with.
10-4

Wildhair let me borrow a 1* and the 2* I put in it.

I took the straight edge like you said, and measured it with the 4 in it and with the 2 and I bet there was a 2" difference at the nozzle, but still about 4" above the ride plate.
 

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take off the diverter and put a race nozzle on it and change the diameter of the nozzle to see what best suites your needs. since i didnt run a diverter, it was much easier to set it at the correct level and mash the pedal knowing i was going to go straight.
 

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his looks to be an American Turbine high flow snoot, I think they are available only in zero degree configuration.
They used to be available in a straight, 2*, 4*, and 6*, but ATJ had quit producing all but the 6*. They are still available last time I checked.

Duane HTP
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Have you tried a full droop yet? Thrust line is everything, if the boats too tight try a full droop.
No, this is actually how all this started. I was going to borrow a friends droop, well whoever put this together didn't feel the need for anti-seize and I ended up breaking a couple of bolts off in the bowl. Well ended up that it was the wrong style droop anyway. :|err

While I had it apart I caught a thread on another board talking about wedges.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Got all ready to try it Saturday and started fighting another demon. Didnt get any testing done. From what I could tell it's going to like the 2* wedge. Gonna try to get things figured out and go for it again on Tuesday.
 

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take off the diverter and put a race nozzle on it and change the diameter of the nozzle to see what best suites your needs. since i didnt run a diverter, it was much easier to set it at the correct level and mash the pedal knowing i was going to go straight.
I'm not sure what kind of boats were talking about here but I couldn't agree more if it was something that runs with very little or no positive nozzle angle. If the boat runs with any significant nozzle angle you wont get a clean leave without a diverter. Gullwings run with alot of nozzle for example, getting one to leave right with a fixed nozzle is never gonna happen. It all comes down to what hull and what kind if nozzle angles it needs wether a diverter is needed or not, if it doesn't need it a fixed nozzle works good. A diverter will always give more adjustability than a fixed nozzle cause you can wedge the droop up or down to change thrust height then tweak nozzle angle where on a fixed if you wedge down or up you make 2 changes when likely only wanted 1 change.
 
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