Performance Boats Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
21' Liberator Jet
Joined
·
523 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
:shock:

This is on buddies SWTD, I have never seen a loader quite like this....



What kind of loader is this? Are they very good?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
319 Posts
gth top loader?

looks like mine. mine is a GTH top loader. works good for me. Ive had lots of people tell me not to run it. I've had it in lots of boats. been running it since 1986. currently in my cheyenne which runs 108 without the NOS.
 

·
no need 2 fake it.
Joined
·
1,702 Posts
not knockin' it, just looks like it wouldt be very strong... the loader bolts on the other hand look like something i'd do away with....
 

·
Resident Ford Nut
Joined
·
10,079 Posts
not knockin' it, just looks like it wouldt be very strong... the loader bolts on the other hand look like something i'd do away with....
Allen head grade 8 or even 5 bolts are better, but if he doesn't r&r it much those might be in there for years.

S CP
 

·
B1 Racing
Joined
·
6,523 Posts
Looks like a cast loader? Id stay far away from that just to be safe, not sure how much the support laying on the floor is doing being so thin, not much footprint on the floor for support. Interesting design, is it infact a GTH?
 

·
21' Liberator Jet
Joined
·
523 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replies! I don't know anything about it, I have never seen another like it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
319 Posts
sell it?

if you decide you want to sell it, I'll buy it. mine is still good but I hit a stump a few yrs ago and broke off the sharp edge on one side. trying to file it smooth I learned that it is harder than any aluminum I have ever encountered. also, I have a pile of steel loaders that were built by Dennis Serber in the 80's if you want to trade it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,892 Posts
:shock:

This is on buddies SWTD, I have never seen a loader quite like this....



What kind of loader is this? Are they very good?
Looks like cool design and if someone were to build a stainless version instead of cast you could very the ramp speed to work with the wingers, V bottoms and tunnels. Everybody is right about the mounting screws! Loose them and get some good hardware in there before that thing gets loose and takes out the impeller and whatever else.M
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,528 Posts
Yep, it is a GTH top loader. I have one I bought from a member off the boards here. I was actually going to start a thread to ask questions about it.
Here are a few pics of it.

lake mead 007.jpg

lake mead 001.jpg

lake mead 002.jpg

lake mead 003.jpg

lake mead 005.jpg

lake mead 006.jpg
 

·
"BOATLESS"
Joined
·
3,468 Posts

·
Angry American
Joined
·
3,103 Posts
Yep, it is a GTH top loader. I have one I bought from a member off the boards here. I was actually going to start a thread to ask questions about it.
Here are a few pics of it.
Hal,
Not sure if you saw this on the Laid Back Board or not but I wrote this a couple of years ago.

I've had a couple of people ask me about these loaders so I thought I'd just post up the info. I've been running one for about 4 years now and it actually works real well. The only other loader I've tried that's given my boat a comparable top end is the White Lightening.
I do have quite a bit of time in fine tuning the GTH and 0 on the White Lightening, that's coming this year.
In the first 2 pictures, you can see what an untouched GTH loader looks like compared to the modified one for my boat-




I also marked the untouched loader with a felt pen to show the approximate area that was cut out on the one I run. The center blocker ended up to be cut back approx 3-1/4" from it's original form. Instead of cutting it back all the way at once, I cut it in about 1/2" increments. The cut ended up pretty much exactly where Walt at Walt's Hot Boat Service had marked it off for me when I bought it.

As far as cutting the front end of the ramps go, I used a straight edge on the bottom of the boat and with the loader installed, I got some rough measurements as to where to start cutting. The straight edge works real good to get the outside measurement but the inside is a bit more difficult.

The reason for the angle cut is it should follow the dead rise of the keel. If it's cut straight across, either the outside edge will be below the keel if the inner cut is equal to the bottom or the inside of the cut will be a 1/4" or so above the keel if the outside is equal. It just made sense to me to cut it at angle.

Anyway, I used the straight edge to get the outside measurement and guessed on the inside being sure I left enough to fine tune the cut later. After the first cutting, I left the edges below the keel approx 1/8" for the first test and ended up even with the keel which is where it is now.
As you can hopefully see in the pictures below, I took some extra time to round off the top of the cuts so the water wasn't hitting a blunt edge.


I also contoured the cut in the center, also to help the water flow better-


All in all, the boat gained about 4 mph with just the mods to the loader. As touched on above, I'm going to play around with the White Lightening loader to fine tune it to my boat. Right now, the leading edges are hanging below the keel by approx 3/16" which I'm sure is creating too much drag. I'm pretty confident that the boat should pick up a little top end speed once that drag is removed.

Getting back to the GTH. If you have one and you ask around, you will probably get responses that the loader is junk and only good for a door stop. Most of that is because the GTH loaders are cast aluminum so the thought is there could be weak spots. In talking to a few others that had first hand experience with the designer/manufacturer and was told there was pretty tight quality control. And then speaking with a few people over the years, some have been running them for 25 yrs without an issue.
The other piece of info that Walt shared with me was to make sure the bottom fin on the loader is tight up against the intake housing of the pump. Doing that will help prevent any harmonics that may occur and will help prevent breakage. If it's not tight up against the intake, add a shim to all four bolts, I use a little dab of grease to hold the shims in place when trying to install the loader.
So far, I've tried this loader on 4 other boats and all saw gains but they were all 65 to 80 mph boats. I can't say anything about any boats that may already go any faster than that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
209 Posts
Very Good info Cas thanks a ton I might try doing that samething to mine. Being I only live a mile or two from closes boat ramp I could have and do the same. In fine tuning it in as well. My swtd wont ever see triple digits so 80s is fine. Maybe low 90's one day is even better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
319 Posts
modification

no pics but on mine, I cut the fin off and drilled and tapped a hole to screw a bolt into. the bolt has a lock nut on it. I can adjust the height of the bolt to vary the depth of the loader. of course if it is changed from being flat on the mounting surface, shims must be used at either the front or rear mounting bolts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,528 Posts
Hal,
Not sure if you saw this on the Laid Back Board or not but I wrote this a couple of years ago.

I've had a couple of people ask me about these loaders so I thought I'd just post up the info. I've been running one for about 4 years now and it actually works real well. The only other loader I've tried that's given my boat a comparable top end is the White Lightening.
I do have quite a bit of time in fine tuning the GTH and 0 on the White Lightening, that's coming this year.
In the first 2 pictures, you can see what an untouched GTH loader looks like compared to the modified one for my boat-




I also marked the untouched loader with a felt pen to show the approximate area that was cut out on the one I run. The center blocker ended up to be cut back approx 3-1/4" from it's original form. Instead of cutting it back all the way at once, I cut it in about 1/2" increments. The cut ended up pretty much exactly where Walt at Walt's Hot Boat Service had marked it off for me when I bought it.

As far as cutting the front end of the ramps go, I used a straight edge on the bottom of the boat and with the loader installed, I got some rough measurements as to where to start cutting. The straight edge works real good to get the outside measurement but the inside is a bit more difficult.

The reason for the angle cut is it should follow the dead rise of the keel. If it's cut straight across, either the outside edge will be below the keel if the inner cut is equal to the bottom or the inside of the cut will be a 1/4" or so above the keel if the outside is equal. It just made sense to me to cut it at angle.

Anyway, I used the straight edge to get the outside measurement and guessed on the inside being sure I left enough to fine tune the cut later. After the first cutting, I left the edges below the keel approx 1/8" for the first test and ended up even with the keel which is where it is now.
As you can hopefully see in the pictures below, I took some extra time to round off the top of the cuts so the water wasn't hitting a blunt edge.


I also contoured the cut in the center, also to help the water flow better-


All in all, the boat gained about 4 mph with just the mods to the loader. As touched on above, I'm going to play around with the White Lightening loader to fine tune it to my boat. Right now, the leading edges are hanging below the keel by approx 3/16" which I'm sure is creating too much drag. I'm pretty confident that the boat should pick up a little top end speed once that drag is removed.

Getting back to the GTH. If you have one and you ask around, you will probably get responses that the loader is junk and only good for a door stop. Most of that is because the GTH loaders are cast aluminum so the thought is there could be weak spots. In talking to a few others that had first hand experience with the designer/manufacturer and was told there was pretty tight quality control. And then speaking with a few people over the years, some have been running them for 25 yrs without an issue.
The other piece of info that Walt shared with me was to make sure the bottom fin on the loader is tight up against the intake housing of the pump. Doing that will help prevent any harmonics that may occur and will help prevent breakage. If it's not tight up against the intake, add a shim to all four bolts, I use a little dab of grease to hold the shims in place when trying to install the loader.
So far, I've tried this loader on 4 other boats and all saw gains but they were all 65 to 80 mph boats. I can't say anything about any boats that may already go any faster than that.
Thanks Cas That is good info. At first I was leary about it , but decided that it is what I have at the moment and i am just going to try it. I am going to run it first, untouched and see how it works, then i will decide to test and tune following your trials or decide to swap it out.

Oki Dave, if I decide to swap it out instead of modification, I will let You know and maybe we can work a trade...Hal
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Noticed on the cut unit -he cut away the top end load portion of the loader. The unit worked great on smaller cuts for top load at upper Rs. Have seen several break yet don't know what hit them also.
Dave at GTH may still have them.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top